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  1. It's been years and I honestly don't remember. I'm guessing I went with either gr5 or neotko's tip. To freeze you can take some canned air and spray it while inverted (comes out as refrigerant). For heating, I wouldn't recommend fire, but you could maybe try hot water or attaching the block/heater/thermistor and heating it up. Hope that helps!
  2. Hello everyone! It's been another year, I've finally managed to get the designs finalized and printed, the fans ordered, and everything installed (among a slew of other printer upgrades). A problem I've run into is that, somehow, I blew the blowers within maybe 5 minutes of running them... I've tested the power coming out of the board, and that is working fine. It will drive any other fan. So the problem must be with the blowers. My theory right now is that the fans act as inductors when they're turned off, which causes a back current. What bothers me is that, to the best of my knowledge, the main board should also already be protected (after all, we don't put flyback diodes on any other fans). The fans I ordered ended up being the F00 variation of the blowers, with the built-in tachometers, as that was the only one on Mouser that could be ordered in low quantities (the non-tachometer version used in the Ultimaker can only be ordered in bulk). Perhaps the way the tachometer is internally wired requires it to be separately protected? I'm not sure how that would work, but it's the best bet I have right now. I think I've run into the bounds of my limited electronics knowledge, so if someone could help me out, I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you in advance! Best, nerdwarrior
  3. Thank you for the information, nilrog! Unfortunately, what I want to try is beyond what is offered in the webtool and requires me going in to change some gcode definitions. This I've done, but I'm just afraid that I've missed something in the configuration.h file. When you say download the tool, do you mean there is a way to generate the code (not compiled) that I can then modify? If so, that would be perfect, because I would be certain I haven't missed any configuration for my UMO+!
  4. I've printed one out and assembled it, but haven't gotten around to actually installing it, so I can't speak with certainty whether I have the same wobble or not. From what I can tell, however, my feeder seems solid and not wobbling. Some things that I did to mitigate wobble from the start include printing everything with a horizontal expansion of +0.1mm and printing both the "Hands" and "Joke Fix Test" (above) files, which gave me three parts to use. I then tested to see which one gave the best fit. Hope that helps!
  5. Been kind of busy, haven't gotten around to actually finishing this yet. All the parts are here, though, and I'll probably have some time later this month after exams are over. Sorry for how long this is taking 😕 I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to firmware, but based on what I can see, the Amedee fork of Marlin is UMO+-ready, correct? The only thing I see that needs changing is the motherboard from 7 ("Ultimaker") to 72 ("Ultimaker V2.X"). Everything else seems fine for an unmodded UMO+ (thermal, motion, etc). Can someone please back me up on this? Thank you in advance!
  6. Nice! It horrifies my inner laziness, though... Let me know how it goes! I used Autodesk CFD (student subscription).
  7. A legitimate concern, @geert_2. I'm hoping that for PLA this won't be too much of an issue, and if necessary, I can turn down the blowers slightly while leaving the axial fans on high. Does that sound alright, or do you think the cooling would be too irregular?
  8. Thanks, @neotko, for clearing that up! Since I evidently cannot get full airflow because the fan is not available in 24V, I tried extending the fan duct a bit to better direct the air. This seems to work, and I'll probably be ordering parts soon. Stay tuned!
  9. I'm not worried about the FET, and I totally agree that the air should be focused right below the nozzle. The problem is, I'm not quite sure how to go about fixing it, as the duct was originally designed with ~1.6 CFM in mind, before I realized that the fans would only be capable of running at ~0.8 CFM. Do you think narrowing the duct output would increase the pressure too much? The fans have to be in series because the BFB03512HHA-AF00's are only offered in a 12V, not 24V, package. Ideally, the fans should be wired in parallel so as to not have to worry about equally dropping voltage, but I haven't found a decent 24V blower that's as compact and nice as the BFB03512HHA-AF00. Would you have any suggestions?
  10. I agree, the blower configuration for the first one is better. However, it was done with a CFM slightly higher than the fans would be able to supply if wired in series. The idea with the axial fan on the side is that when the print head is moving fast, the blower won't provide enough cooling time (it moves away), so the airflow of the axial fan moves directly over the freshly printed part.
  11. Update and slight issue: I've conducted some CFD's with various shroud setups, and the results are both encouraging and disappointing. Just the blower, mounted 20 degrees from vertical: Blower and axial, blower 20 degrees from vertical and axial mounted straight behind (so that bottom of the fan colinear with bottom line): Here's the problem: I initially forgot that by wiring the blowers in series, each would receive less power and thus have less airflow. So, when I compensated for that in the second CFD, you can see that the air from the blower doesn't get as close to the nozzle. From my initial testing, moving the blower closer to vertical brings the airflow closer to the nozzle. However, with the current setup, that would also turn the airflow of the axial closer to vertical, leaving a larger gap between the blower and axial air: At this point, there are a couple of "solutions": a) my rough estimations of airflow (1.66 CFM for a single fan, thus ~0.83 CFM each when in series) are wrong, so mounting 20 degrees from vertical is okay, or b) design a wedge behind the blower fan to make the face opposite the axial fan less steep, making for smoother airflow. Would anyone be kind enough to offer their expertise and input? Thank you!
  12. Hi everyone, Proper part cooling is essential for nice prints, especially with PLA. I, like a lot of people, thought it would be nice to improve this, so I set out to do some research. What I've essentially found are two main solutions: blowers, which have the benefit of higher static pressure and focused airflow, and axial fans, which have the benefit of high airflow. The former allows for rapid cooling of the plastic coming straight out of the nozzle, which is useful for small features, while the latter allows for even cooling over a large area for larger/faster prints. In other words, focused airflow is bad when the printhead moves quickly away, and wide airflow is bad when the printhead is moving over a small area. My idea for a (potentially new?) cooling solution is to incorporate both styles of fans in my UMO+. My idea is to have a pair of blowers, one on either side of the hotend, focusing air right below the nozzle. Next to each blower will be an axial fan cooling the large area behind the blower. That way, plastic can be cooled as it comes out of the nozzle, so it's quickly set in shape, and more cooling can be provided by the axial fans as the printhead moves away. I'm currently working on CAD and CFD visualizations for this, but life is pretty busy, so it may take a while. The best idea I have thus far for controlling these fans would be to have the blowers connected to the FAN output and the axial fans connected to the LED output. Then, in firmware, the M106 command (fan on) can be set to also send power to the LED output, perhaps at some constant or changing factor of the blower speed. For specific fans, I'm looking at two BFB03512HHA-AF00 blowers (12V version of the UM3 blowers) wired in series on the FAN output, and two EBM-PAPST 24V 40mm axial fans on the LED output. Please let me know what you think of this idea, and feel free to contribute! Worries, questions, or solutions are all welcome. Thanks! -nerdwarrior
  13. Hello everyone, I was recently looking for replacement XY shafts on Robotdigg, and it wasn't available. Yesterday, they got back to me to tell me that they now stock the shafts! They are 6mm OD, 267 mm long. For anyone looking for them, here's the link: https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1047 . Cheers! Note: I'm not being paid by Robotdigg to say any of this; it's just a great place to get cheap parts!
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