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  1. Hello @Torgeir and thank you for coming to respond to my thread 🙂 Yes as you can see my machine is performing a lot better now after fixing the nozzle size. The first layer square you can see, I did change the settings to something you said in the more recent post not to change to.... the first layer height in that test was 0.3 instead of 0.27 so it made the issue worse. I do think you are right about needing the nozzle closer just a fraction perhaps? judging on the brim of the temperature tower which is definitely more rounded and less squished. For the temperature tower, I act
  2. Ahh Torgeir helped me initially when I found out I actually had a 0.8 nozzle in my machine when I bought it which was a cause of major underextrusion... and the under-extrusion was super bad. It's super interesting though, I just printed another cube without spiralize and don't have a single under-extrusion on the outer wall. I would say the bottom layers it laid down still had a tad of under-extrusion though
  3. Hey, so I am on an ultimaker 2+ extended, I haven't calibrated e steps. my filament diameter is set to 2.85. and it is a confirmed 0.4 nozzle. I will try thicker on the nozzle for sure.
  4. and here I tried changing the line width to 0.4 and the initial layer height to 0.3 which made it worse on the first two layers badly unextruded. I did run this cylinder test (not 100% sure what it means but another user suggested I do this when I have underextrustion. This was at 220 temp
  5. Bare with me, I am still new to this. I am getting bad layer adhesion with this filament So recently started trying to tune temperature for my Formfutura volcano PLA. The manufacturer settings recommend between 220 and 255. I set up this temperature tower: cube 245 at the bottom is temperature 220 since the first layer I wanted to print the lowest temp to ensure a stable base like the maker who made this tower reccomended. You can see it is by far the best at 220 , I had hoped to print a tiny bit higher to get better layer adhesion like I have read online, since when I printed a test
  6. That's fantastic. Thanks for the explanation! Was just worried how blurry my pictures can be, thanks for teaching me how to identify the difference. Now trying to source the correct sized torque wrench to remove it and replace it with a shiny new 0.4 nozzle Thanks again. I was so lost and you've truly helped this newbie.
  7. Oh really this is Olsson already? how can you tell? Oh well that's good news, I guess never assume! The person I bought this from had definitely been customizing this machine. There used to be a magnetic buildTak base on it which I removed due to not getting good adhesion. If you are sure it is Olson block I will go buy some new nozzles then that actually have the nozzle size inscribed on it. Thanks so much, I knew something must have been amiss.
  8. Thanks for your response as always. A) so this option is talking about the fan at the back? (not the large two side fans) To test this fan is working properly, is it meant to be running constantly? I can run a print and check it is 'working properly', I just need to know what the expected behaviour is. B) Replacing the coupler I have never done. I guess now will be my first time to try if my fan isnt working. I think I should probably do this anyway, how many prints would something need to go through to warrant replacing? I never used this machine much but don't know its previous owner'
  9. So here are the two tests: one with my cube 10ms speed infill (no extra flow tweaks) It certainly looks worse somehow! And here is the print you passed to me to test: Yikes that's bad. what does this tell you?
  10. Firstly thank you for replying! Well it's almost comforting to know the infill is out of the ordinary and isn't necessarily something I am doing wrong. I will run the speed test tomorrow, I hadn't the chance to run it today. As for the flow test....how do I go about this? If it involves calipers to measure things I am out of luck since I don't own one. Guess it might be time to invest in one! I set off a print where I increased infill flow to 130%, and whilst the strength definitely improved, it still has that tell-tale diagonal pattern. Let's see if speed reduction helps, but it doesn't fe
  11. here's an example with a much older cura, 15.04.6. It still definitely does it. albeit maybe a tiny bit stronger/thicker. This was 15% infill there isn't much other settings I can change on this older version
  12. Attached the file you ask for, I am on 4.9.1 I do have a super old cura I can try as well, I know I never had problems with it on my older ultimaker, I kept it around since for some reason spiralize worked better on it somehow. Thanks again! UM2E_UFOMiddle.3mf
  13. I had something similar to this recently, I am not a pro, but my print bed was leveled just a fraction too close. if you turn all your leveling screws about a quarter turn looser could help.
  14. Thank you so much for responding. Yup that setting is there, I just wanted to ask someone who knows what they're doing. thanks I will try this .. but 150% does seem excessive. Is there anything else you think could be amiss?
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