SyntaxTerror
-
Posts
575 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
20
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by SyntaxTerror
-
-
So, the printer is just completely dead? No display life or anything?
Are you certain the PSU comes online? And do you by any chance have access to a multimeter for measuring stuff? If the cause of this was indeed the model fans getting shorted, you've shorted VCC/2 (the unswitched 24V) directly (that is, you shorted it through the main board). And it shouldn't really happen unless the transistor is on. In any case, if I were you the first thing I'd do is make sure the power supply actually delivers 24V. The second would be to remove the main board and inspect it for burn damage.
-
Does this apply also for the rotary encoder? I ask, because it looks like your encoder works with a different amount of steps per revolution than it should do...
Good point! Ultimaker 2 hardware is... subjective
-
Clearly you're having encoder issues, so the question is why? It could be several things, of course. The first and easiest thing to do is check the EXT2 cable from the main board to the controller board. Make sure it is properly seated and undamaged. Regardless of whether or not it looks alright, unplug the cable at both ends and reinsert. Maybe it helps, maybe not.
If not, I'm going to go out on a limb and say odds are you have a glitchy encoder on the controller board.
The encoder is produced by ALPS, type number EC11E15244B2. It might be a bit tricky to source at the moment, it appears... backorders are annoying.
Here are some sources for you anyway if you want to give that a shot:
RS P/N: 729-5555
Mouser P/N: 688-EC11B15242AE
Farnell P/N: 2064978
-
I think I have what you're looking for, although I'll need to check when I get home. PM me your address and you can have what's left of my UM2 feeder.
-
1
-
-
So it would be best to do the cold pulls with ABS? I tried using ABS one time and when reading on the atomic method it suggested to pull at 110 degrees. When I tried pulling though it would not come out. I had to turn it up to 150 to be able to get it out.
I will continue trying the atomic method and see if I make any progress. We might simply purchase a new nozzle to start from scratch.
If the PLA doesn't do it, I'd try with ABS for sure. The temperatures need to be higher though, as the ABS will harden at a higher temperature.
In any case there are a few things to try before getting a new nozzle. As Didier mentioned, see if you can push a needle (ones intended for acupuncture work very well for this) through the heated nozzle. Or disassemble, remove the nozzle, and apply a blowtorch (easy does it, we just want to melt plastic after all). Usually you can make it simply drip out.
-
If you know/can find someone with a hot air rework station and a bit of skill, a new A4988 stepper driver can be had from Farnell for less than 5 euros. It sure beats the price of a new main board.
-
I'm not really sure what the wattage of the pre-installed heater is.
The UM2+ has a 35W stock heater. I can't remember where, but I'm pretty sure I've seen 50W ones for sale.
Edit: the 50W heaters are 3dsolex ones as well.
-
I'm not really sure what the wattage of the pre-installed heater is.
The UM2+ has a 35W stock heater. I can't remember where, but I'm pretty sure I've seen 50W ones for sale.
-
When you're doing the cold pulls, which temperature are you using? If the nozzle opening is plugged by ABS, heating it to PLA temperatures is not going to be too effective.
-
Agreed. I'd go for something that bends a little rather than something stiff. Stiffness gives you nothing but a tendency to break. Trees in the wind and all that. Which materials have you tried this with?
-
Thanks very much for the recommendations. I definitely missed a few of those in my shopping spree to get supplies. I did manage to buy 2-gallon Ziploc bags and desiccant for storing filament, and I'll leave the new ones unopened until I need them. The UM filaments that came with the unit were double shrink-wrapped, which was nice. I'll have to check the ColorFabb ones.
How do you like to store your filaments - in a drawer or bin, out on the shelf ...?
Unless I have another print coming up in the extremely near future, I zip loc mine with a dessicant capsule too, then toss it in one of these things:
http://www.reallyusefulproducts.co.uk/uk/html/onlineshop/rub/b77_0litre.php
Fits 20 standard 200x55mm spools side by side. Okay, they're not made to be air tight but it seems to be working well anyway - I stuck some dessicant capsules in there as well and monitor humidity with a hygrometer for a terrarium I snatched up on amazon for next to nothing.
-
You've put me at ease
I'm ordering the solenoid and SS Relay today! Thanks again, SyntaxTerror!You're welcome
I can definitely say that Ultimakers have survived far worse than what you're planning to do. Of course the proverbial poo sometimes gets sucked into a turbofan intake, but I see no reason this little mod should hurt anything at all. Using an onboard driver to power another offboard driver sounds about as safe as it gets to me. It needs to go really, really, really wrong before it costs a new main board, that's for damn sure.
-
Hehe, well just go easy on it. We don't need red hot for the filament to get runny... just hotter than usual
-
Anyone else have any input on the whole "damaging the circuit board" possibility? After seeing that come up twice now...I'm getting a bit worried about it.
No need to worry. First off, a solid state relay is basically an optocoupler driven power transistor. Short of someone melting the part and somehow fusing the internals together, there is nothing the secondary side can do to affect the primary side of the relay. Second, the LED's are switched by a pin on the microcontroller driving a transistor. Even if we were to do something evil like short the output to ground, we'll only kill the transistor. We have the schematics, we have the parts list. You can have a handful of replacements for 1 euro, all you need is a soldering iron and someone to wield it.
-
I'm not aware of any difference between Olsson blocks.
There is actually one, the early blocks had the heater cartridge on the side towards to the fan shroud so it had very little spacing between the block and shroud, the later ones that also were included in the 2+ are mirrored so the heater cartridge does sit further from the fan shroud.
I stand corrected then. Thanks for pointing that out!
-
Happy birthday btw. Arjan
-
1
-
-
Plus you are less likely to damage your circuit board.
With a solid state relay you get galvanic isolation so there's not much chance of that.
-
Well that's a nice surprise for you! Now you won't have to find out how annoying a nozzle change was on the original head. Something that used to be a pretty big evolution is now a one minute job.
I'm not aware of any difference between Olsson blocks. I must admit I haven't looked for any either, so. At any rate they should all be compatible with both 3dsolex and E3D nozzles, so you can just take your pick.
-
1
-
-
I'm going to go ahead and order the solenoid and solid-state relay now (we have some options for 12v sources in the lab already). I'll let you know how it turns out!
Cool! We demand pictures, by the way.
-
1
-
-
Heh, I hadn't even seen that, @foehnsturm - well done. It's the details that kill you
Just in case I'd like to point out that the relay in question has to be a solid state one, like Foehnsturm suggested. If you were to use a mechanical one without additional protection, you'd be risking your LED driver transistor on the main board due to inductive kickback.
-
I definitely do want it to integrate with the whole printing environment. I assumed the LED idea was still fulfilling this requirement. If I reroute the LED wire to a solid-state relay (thank you foehnsturm!), and then the solid state relay controls the 12v solenoid, then shouldn't opening the gel extruder be as easy as inserting the gcode for "LED ON"?
I thought so. Was just scratching my head a bit when you said you'd rather avoid messing with electronics and firmware
Yes, you can manually edit the gcode to turn the LED's on and off. M42 S0 is off, M42 S255 is on. Anyway, it's certainly doable. You will need a 12VDC source for the relay though, there's no such supply in the Ultimaker.
-
2
-
-
Definitely gave me a laugh to see people with sh*t everywhere!
For the record, all my sh*t was deeply offended by your comment
Nah, seriously now. You'll find that there's a great many little things that are horribly useful next to the printer. Some are just downright necessary. Things to keep within reach of my Ultimakers would be stuff like:
- About one metric ton of filament (you've no idea how those spools multiply)
- Allen key
- Nozzle wrench
- Glass scraper
- Bed adhesives (glue/hairspray/whatever)
- Spare build plates
- Scalpels (for finishing, cutting supports/brims)
- Abrasives (I like micro-mesh cushioned for finishing touches)
- Blue masking tape
- Small lengths of white PLA for cold pulling
- Glue (for joining multi-part prints)
- Wire cutters (for the filament)
And that's just for starters, off the top of my head. It's quite annoying to constantly be running around the house gathering the stuff you need.
Also, concerning filament storage: If you aren't going through spools very quickly, you'll need to get some sort of airtight (or at least close to it) storage box for it. Anything else is just waste of money and filament. It's also a good idea to invest in some desiccant that can be reactivated in the oven.
-
2
-
-
Problem with the extrusion upgrade kit is the price and what you get for it. It seems to me like you pay about €200 for the convenience. Perhaps a bit more. Which is fine if you like convenience of course.
A valid point, it is rather expensive. And the various feeder designs out there can certainly do wonders to improve the printer's reliability, there's no doubt about that. The feeder mechanism is definitely my main gripe with the UM2. Especially if you're trying to print something brittle (anyone tried bamboofill on a stock UM2? Dear lord, take me now).
Whether or not the extrusion upgrade kit is worth the money, I suppose is a matter of opinion. I will say that the geared feeder and the Olsson block are two things I can't do without on my printers. The geared feeder because it probably cut the total number of failed prints by two thirds for me. The Olsson block because of ease of operation and maintenance. Need speed? Huge nozzle goes in. Need detail? Tiny nozzle goes in. Clogged nozzle? Replace it in 60 seconds. I think I might have to make a shrine to mr. Olsson someday.
-
2
-
-
So it's just a manual toggle you're looking for? Not something that integrates with the whole printing environment?
UM2 is dead after short circuit.
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
It sounds odd. But yeah, have a look at the board and see if there's anything to be seen - that certainly never hurt anything.
I'm not sure what the light on the power supply actually indicates. Power in? Power out? Assumption can mess up a great many things. Maybe someone else knows?
I'm not seeing how the fan transistor could conceivably cause the entire printer to be dead. Especially since you tried disconnecting the fan. If it was shorted collector-emitter, well, all that would happen was that we grounded a floating point. It would have to be a hard short of the transistor AND the kickback diode. The odds don't really seem to favour that. Something else must be going on.