SyntaxTerror
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Posts posted by SyntaxTerror
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They're not listed in the webshop, however a very friendly gentleman named Harold there can pretty much get you any misumi bearing you require. I ordered some from him a couple of months ago. Excellent and quick service.
Oh yeah, and the misumi part number you need is LHFSW12.
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Ooh. I feel tagged.
The short answer is yes, the Ultimaker 2 has plenty of leftover outputs from the microcontroller that can be used to control add-on circuitry.
The long answer of course is a bit more complex. Do you have a datasheet for the valve you'd like to use? The outputs from the microcontroller on the UM2 main board can't really be expected to actually power anything and I have to assume you're not in the mood to fry anything. So odds are you'll need a driver of some sort to power the solenoid.. unless your part is something with some sort of built in driver. I'm not a valve expert, but solenoids draw power and the microcontroller can't deliver it directly. I'd think it'd need a higher voltage than just 5V too. A driver is almost certainly needed.
Then there's the firmware. We can hook up all the external circuitry in the world, but without firmware changes it's not going to do a whole lot for us. The UM2 firmware is somewhat foreign territory for me at this point, I simply haven't had the time to get familiar with it. I blame @tinkergnome for always having provided firmware that did all the things on my wish list, plus some things I didn't even know I wanted before.
As @foehnsturm mentioned, we happen to - almost - have a driver PCB add-on ready from his tool changer project. If it wasn't for the Chinese new year throwing a wrench in the production schedule, I'd be happy to send you one. It grabs a couple of leftover microcontroller outputs from a connector on the Ulticontroller PCB, which are then used to switch power via a couple of transistors. One output is 5V, and won't carry a lot of current. The other, however, is 24V and with a FET could realistically be expected to deliver 1A if needed. So quite a bit of oomph there. I see no reason it shouldn't be usable for you, assuming the firmware can be tweaked to suit your purpose.
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Now I don't own a UM3 - but I've had some severe nozzle blockages too on my 2's. Faced with either tossing the nozzle in the bin or trying out "alternative medicine" I've found that extreme heat works very well to clear bits of filament that are well and truly stuck. I've very good experiences applying a small blowtorch to the nozzle until whatever's in there simply drips out. Sometimes a few bits of burnt residue remains and need to be cold pulled afterwards, but other than that the nozzles have been working like new afterwards. It did appear rather extreme to me when I tried it... but I have suffered zero issues from it so far.
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If you're using something on the build plate for adhesion, be it hair spray or glue or whatever, I certainly doubt you'll be able to notice any difference between the two sides.
The sticker came off one of my plates once when I was cleaning it. At the time I was completely oblivious to the surface treatment of the build plate and I just kept printing on presumably random sides of the plate. Later I learned there was a difference between the sides and did quite a bit of experimenting printing, flipping over and printing again. I can't tell the difference. Maybe it's just me.
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That's what they tell us, yeah
Personally I don't experience much of a difference between the two though.
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Yeah, I figured. Always factory reset after messing with the firmware. Not doing so seems to invite those mindboggling issues.
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The few times I've had something completely and utterly stuck in my nozzle, I've resorted to the option of unscrewing the nozzle, grabbing it with a pair of tweezers and heating it gently (yeah, I said that!) with a small blowtorch. The filament runs out on its own in moments. Then you can cold pull out any leftovers afterwards, if need be. It's certainly a quick unclog.
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Since you've upgraded the firmware - have you tried resetting to factory defaults after the upgrade? Sometimes weird things happen after flashing your machine.
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They're both 12VDC fans connected in serial.
There's next to no information available about them. I've measured the current consumption of mine though. They take 79 mA continuous, with a 115 mA inrush current.
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Oi! Just remembering that I upgraded Cura to 2.4 last night, I checked again. The option to use RepRap gCode is now available under machine settings.
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You actually can do that. There are profiles (somewhere I don't remember now) to use um2 as reprap (so, like umo) and that gices you full control of everything.
Is the gCode type swap implemented for the UM2+ yet? Last I looked Cura had no such option.
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@Syntaxterror, here in the Netherlands we have something called 'nieuwjaars-duik' / newyears dive. Together with a couple of thousand (probably still) intoxicated people, we gether at the beach at January 1st 12:00 and run into the ocean for a refreshing dip! I read that the perceived temperature that day was -5ºC. brrrr! But it is the best tool I ever came across to battle a hang over ;)Take that, body
Yeah we have those winter bathers here too, the kind of people who will only go swimming if they have to saw a hole in the ice first. Just thinking about it makes me shiver! So several thousand people, huh? How many dead?
And you did it? What was worse then, the hangover or the dip?
Yes, there's only one vendor for the bulbs. It's the aviation industry so we're subject to a lot of scrutiny and the whole approved parts vs. bogus parts nightmare. And when said vendor has huge government contracts, everyone else gets moved to the back of the line. Still have to pay those prices that are no doubt massively inflated by the government contracts. Want to get rich? Don't buy a plane.
And I couldn't sleep last night so I got back out of bed and replaced the hot end fan. So it's finally back online and happily chewing its way through a spool of filament as we speak. Today is much better!
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I've noticed it sucks getting older. It's ticked over into January 3rd and I'm still feeling the last bit of a hangover from New Years here... must have been a good party though. Take that, liver!
Anyway. Earlier today I was working as per usual. I've got a couple of radar control panels in for service just because the panel backlight bulbs are blown. No problem (I thought). Disassemble, remove 11 bulbs, solder in 11 new ones, reassemble, test. Sounds like a nice afternoon at work when you're still feeling a bit... vague.
No. These units were of course night vision compatible. Special filtered bulbs needed. Fine, so I'll order some of those. List price? 294 U.S. dollars each. 294!! 22 bulbs! Just short of 6500 dollars for BULBS?! And they could be delivered in only 180 days. Damn. What are they planning to do with all that money in all that time? Build a bloody bulb factory? In any case that was fun trying to explain to our customer.
I got home and found that I - finally - received some new bearings for my trusty UM2 which had apparently spent the Christmas holidays travelling the world or something. No more horrid screeching there. I'd cannibalized the Z-motor for my other printer because of a rusty bearing in that. Managed to find a replacement bearing for that as well and put the motor back together.
So I spent the afternoon rebuilding the printer. Fired it up. Aaand then it turns out the hot end fan is making odd noises and stalling now and then. Dear lord.
Maybe I should just have stayed in bed
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Thanks guys
Of course I couldn't find a replacement bearing that fit.. but being kind of in a hurry I cannibalized the motor of my other printer that's waiting for new bearings. All is well in the world again as of a couple of hours ago.
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I hear ya
There's definitely a shot bearing in the motor though. I disassembled it after work and it runs about as smoothly as if it's lubricated with gravel. Probably a moisture problem during fabrication. Should be able to find a replacement when the nice people in the instrument workshop show up tomorrow.
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Welcher Laserdruckerhersteller hätte sich jemals erlauben können ein Produkt zu liefern, das einmal druckt, das andere mal nicht oder schlecht.
...einfach "Laser" mit "Ink-jet" austauschen und nochmals überlegen.
Mittlerweile haben wir mit Laserdruckern ja auch jetzt rund 40 Jahre Erfahrüng. War damals auch nicht billig.... rund USD 150.000,-
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It's a bit hard to get consistent results as the problem comes and goes, but good idea.
As the Z-bearings are maybe 2 months old and I lubricate everything religiously, I'll assume for now they're okay.
What I did yesterday was unscrew the trapezoidal nut and rotate the z-motor manually. It definitely has uneven, position dependent friction.
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I think I figured it out myself now.
The overextrusion is back - or so it would seem at first glance.
My best guess is the underextrusion was just your run-of-the-mill thing. I've just been unlucky enough to see it in combination with z-motor trouble. It looks like the step motor is intermittent and doesn't turn every time. It's also getting seriously hot.. so I'm going to have a look at it tomorrow, see if it can be salvaged. Could be a bad bearing or something has come loose and blocks the rotor sometimes.
In any case, it's not overextrusion, it's just the bed not moving and the nozzle pushing around what's already printed.
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Yesterday my UM2+ finished a print with a sample of Colorfabb nGen. I was going to do another one straight away with PLA. Did a quick cold pull to get any leftovers out of the nozzle - it's something I've pretty much gotten used to when changing material types - and got the next job on the way.
Halfway through, though, it started underextruding pretty badly. I figured I might have a bit of higher temperature material still in there somewhere and tried a couple more cold pulls to see if I could clear something. Absolutely nothing came out. I restarted the print and got more underextrusion straight away. Since it's been awhile since I checked the coupler, I took the hot end apart and had a look... nothing to be seen. Unscrewed the nozzle and cleaned it. Disassembled the feeder to see if I might have some junk rattling around in there. There were the usual bits of filament ... but really nothing I'd worry much about if I'd seen it at another time. So I cleaned those out, put it all back together and restarted the print.. again.
And this is where the fun begins. The underextrusion was gone, now replaced by overextrusion. Completely baffled, I disassembled the entire thing again, checked everything again, put it back together and now it works perfectly once more.
Now, I've had underextrusion before.. but overextrusion out of the blue? I haven't changed my e-steps or done anything to make that happen.
I'm puzzled. Can anyone come up with an idea as to what happened to make it overextrude?
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Sometimes we get lucky
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No problem
If you're going to do some component level troubleshooting, let me know if I can be of further assistance.
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Sounds like the card detection mechanism itself might be defective. If you have a multimeter, check continuity between common and this pin (with the card both inserted and removed from the slot):
If there's no difference between the two, I'd say the SD card slot itself is telling you it wants to retire from service and have someone else do the work.
Correct function would be open circuit with card ejected, closed circuit with card inserted.
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Oh yeah, one thing that should also be mentioned in a fan replacement thread is that when getting replacements for these two fans, you should make sure they have ball bearings. Sleeve bearings won't last long when operating the fan on a horizontal plane.
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After changing the 817 I first bought a set of Sunon Maglev MC30101V2-0000-A99 Fans. They do not work with the board. I then bought some cheap fans from here:
Click me softly and they do the trick although they have the same specs as the more expensive Sunon ones... go figure.
Both are brushless, both are 12V...
The problem here is that these are DC fans and as such, have their own internal circuits for switching the stator windings on and off in order to make the rotor spin. What we're doing when we try run them of a pulse width modulated fan bus, is turn the entire fan (and thereby the switching circuits) on and off at an alarming rate. It won't necessarily work on all fans, and is often dependent on the PWM frequency.
A DC fan designed for PWM operation is supposed to be powered on all the time, and instead takes the PWM signal on a third wire - and the fan electronics never lose power.
So yeah, it's hit and miss with this sort of thing. Most normal DC fans can be run with a PWM signal just fine, provided the PWM frequency is low enough. Ideally though, you would want to move the frequency somewhere above 20KHz since a great many fans will appear to become much louder when switched with a frequency inside the range of human hearing. Unfortunately not all fans react equally well to this.
Some questions from a new U2 owner
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
You mentioned upgrading the feeder. If I were in your place, I'd give some serious consideration to the extrusion upgrade kit, getting your printer modified to the plus version. I know it's a serious bit of cash compared to the machine itself, but I'd do it in a heartbeat myself. The first printer I bought was a UM2. Time went by, I decided this 3D printing business was pretty damn handy, and bought myself a second printer which was a UM2+. I didn't own that for more than a week before I'd bought the upgrade kit for the UM2. The UM2+ feeder is just better by an order of magnitude. They don't even compare. Then add to that the ability to swap nozzles in mere moments. If I'd known how much more awesome the + version is, I'd have done it right from the start.
Just my opinion, of course.