Jump to content

MaxPower

Dormant
  • Posts

    4
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by MaxPower

  1. Hi everybody, I also had a heated bed sensor error and I finaly solved my problem. So I wanted to let you know: First, I did what I found in this forum, this is: 1.) Resolder the 4 pins of the connection block on the bed. 2.) I also loosened the four screws, got the cables out and shortened the two for the sensor. Someone in the forum said that it is not good if you have solder on wires going into screwed connection blocks. Since mine were with solder on I shortened them and put blank cables back in the block. Doing so, I could print another hour, than the problem occured again. When I touched the cables or slightly bended the PCB (without glassplate on top) I got an error. 3.) I found out that the problem is in the solder-points of the sensor itself. I first resoldered them but got the error again. Final solution for me: I used two short pieces of cables and directly connected the sensor-solderpins to the pins of the connection block. That did the trick. I can touch the cables and bend the PCB, no more errors. So I hope this helps someone else. Dont buy a new heatbed, it can be fixed easily. Last thing I would have done is change the wires from heat bed to the microprocessor. I had a similar problem with my Makerbot, some cables were bended too often and the motor lost steps due to missing signals. Luckily I didnt have to do that. Good luck... Max Power
  2. Hi everybody, I had similar Problems with blobs especially with thicker nozzles. Mine came from not perfect retraction settings. I changed to Simplify 3D as new slicer (very nice but 150$, definitely worth it if you print a lot) I used mainly two options: coasting- stops extruding about 1...2mm before end of line, but some filament keeps on coming out of the nozzle Extra restart distance about -1mm so the extruder retracts in my case 4,5mm and restarts with only 3,5mm. The first minimizes a blob am the end of the line, the other alt the start of the new one. I think there is no possibility to do this in Cura. I changed to Bondtech extruder and 3D Solex Block, thats I I also changed the Slicer and played with thick nozzles, high speeds and optimal settings. But before, with my Original UM2 extended, Cura was always doing a good job. The Standard values worked OK. Maybe that helps. Cheers, Ascan
  3. Version 1.0

    1,051 downloads

    The lampshade Erebos prints about 35 hours, definitly my longest prints. The surface is aceton-finished for smooth look. More infos at: www.engineering-art.de Sorry, only german at the moment.
  4. Hi everybody, I am new to this forum and would like to know about your experience with an Ultimaker equipped with an Olsson Block or 3D Solex matchless Block and Bondtech extruder (or other, whatever works). I am printing large objects with my UM2 extended and I want to reduce the print time by maximizing the flow rate (in terms of mm^3/second coming out of the nozzle). I dont mind thicker layers due to the large objects like lamp shades or furniture. I think the flow rate is at the end the only important value for max build speed. Sure, I can reduce the numer of outlines and the infill, but I speak about maximize the speed for a given setup (e.g. 2mm wall-thickness and 10% infill) Bye the way, the used flowrate is shown in Cura if you move the mouse over the "print speed" input field (it calculates the flow rate with the speed, the nozzle diameter and the layer height/ width...). With the Tinkergnome-firmware (if used, if not give it a try), the actual flow rate is shown during printing when you move the cursor over the flow rate field in the LCD. You can also calculate it, a flowrate of 30 mm^3/s is equal to 108 g/h (with density 1,0g/cm^3). ABS has a bit higher density, but the print speed is not constant (outlines slower etc.). So lets say: 30 mm^3/s =100g/h - already achieved 60mm^3/s = 200g/h - goal So far I used five different nozzles on my 3D solex Block: 0,4/ 0,6/ 0,8/ 1,0/ 1,5mm. I was able to achieve a flow rate of 30..35mm^3/s. Which is already quite impressive. But I hope to push it further. There is a chart on the 3D Solex homepage (3dsolex.com/matchless-charts) which states a flow rate of 60mm^3/s using at least a 1,0mm nozzle. Can anyone of you print that fast? I achieve the 30...35mm^3 with a 0,8mm nozzle or bigger. But increasing print speed (and with it increasing flow rate) lets my Bondtech extruder skip, leading to holes in the print. I doesn´t seem to be the extruder since it is quite powerful. I think the filament just can not be heated fast enough. If I push the filament in by hand, I can not extrude it much faster since I cant not push harder before breaking something. I already checked the nozzle doesnt touch the sheet metal of the fans. I also used copper paste to install the 35W heater. So I think the heater block is working fine?! I am printing ABS at between 235 and 260°C. Maybe the flow chart with 60mm^3/s is made for PLA? Would be interesting to hear if anyone can print at hyperspeed... Anyway, Bondtech and Solex-Block seem to be a good choice. I am already printing much faster than with the standard UM2 setup. Now I am experimenting with Simplify 3D - a really awesome Slicer with many cool features I always missed in Cura. Cheers, Ascan
×
×
  • Create New...