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  1. I Know this is an old thread... But for an art project I am looking to locate the z-seam manually... None of the ways provided in Cura give me any controll. Back is nice... but for large models sometimes I can't vary the orientation of the model. For instance having a setting that allows me to enter an x and y coordinate and it starts/ends the layer on the nearest point to that location... would help loads! Is there a place in cura where I can hack this in myself? As a plugin perhaps? It would be enough if I could change the math behind the "back" function... Thanks for any help!
  2. I'd say... just unroll untill your roll appears clear... then either re-roll... or snip it off and try rolling the difficult bit onto an empty roll... if you have the time. And yes... a lot of the time you will twist the entire roll whilst re-winding... It's really a question of feeling the tension and rolling as relaxed as possible (no twists).
  3. Update.. I've installed a new bowden tube, teflon coupler, and a fresh nozzle (3d solex 0.8mm) and all is well!
  4. Here you go SandervG... Download and print from here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/big-boy-arms-for-ultibot-sandervg What should I design and share next??? Feel free to post suggestions here!
  5. I've seen a lot of "mattish" prints that were due to printing at the 'wrong temperature'... So personally I'd start by trying to print with my PLA or ABS a bit too hot (5 to 10 degrees).
  6. Hey... I own one just like it (along with my ultimaker). Just use Makerware... Personally I use an older version. The current one (makerbot desktop) will work but I don't like how it updates itself. BTW.. you can also use cura to create a gcode file and then have makerware convert it to the format your makerbot will understand. If you can't find a windows version of makerware let me know and I'll give you a link privately.
  7. Ok.. so if I get this right... If there is a "glob" anywhere that is wider than the bowden tube... there must be a leak because there should not be any space for it to grow? So either the tube is not connecting properly or the coupler is damaged.. probably
  8. Hi everyone. I've been doing design for 3D print for a while now.. Even though I'm relatively new here. And I find that I really enjoy coming up with quick little prints on request. So here's your chance... What should I design? I will share the print files on youmagine & the thingiverse. Here's two I just did: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/top-spin-toy-for-jimmy-gunawan https://www.youmagine.com/designs/blu-tree-topper-for-cults3d ps.. Im doing this just because I enjoy it... So I reserve the right to also not design things.
  9. Yes I do, just wasn't there in the picture.
  10. Thanks for the replies guys. Pretty much every time I remove the filament after finishing my print (I swap filament colors a lot)... The filament has a slightly thicker 'rim' around the tip which makes it hard to pull it back through the tube. And... most of the time a large piece of plastic is left in the extruder... so large it juts out of the top (nearly into the end of the tube)... either that or the large piece is stuck to the end of the filament making it impossible to pull the plastic out (as in the image).
  11. Hi all... I'm sure It's been covered before, but I could not find it using search. So please bare with me... I just got my Ultimaker Original Plus a week or two ago and it's been printing just great... Except... Every time I let filament cool in the machine I get nasty globs of the stuff at the print head that make it impossible to remove the filament without removing the tube... Check the image!
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