Tiger91
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Posts posted by Tiger91
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I've got a few major issues.
Recently, I had trouble connecting my UM3 to my computer via wi-fi. Nothing I was doing worked, and when I went to open the comms center box, I noticed that the antenna wire had come off. Not only that, but when I try to connect an ethernet cable from my PC to my UM3, it won't register.
How do I solve these issues? I just want to connect, so the lan problem would be the one need the most help on. The antenna looks a bit more serious, and I would like to know if any special materials or techniques are required to solder the connecter back on.
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Does nobody print with PP?
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Hello,
I tried printing with a spool of PP recently on a UM3, current cura version, and had no luck. It turned to silly string. I tried changing the temperature, flow, speed, etc but no success. The first layer adheres well, but it seems as though it just doesn't extrude enough after layer 1. There is no clog however, and other materials work fine.
Any suggestions? That stupid spool is $70 down the toilet otherwise.
Thanks,
Tiger
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Hello,
I was wondering if the UM3 app that allows you to view your ultimaker in action worked when you were outside of wifi range. For me, I'm unable to view it when too far away. Is there a way to remedy that?
Thanks
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On 6/17/2018 at 11:07 PM, Tiger91 said:
Hello,
I tried to put a large cardboard box around my UM3 to keep in the heat when making objects with ABS/Nylon/etc. The issue is that without an escape, the UM3 gets very very hot, and I was wondering if this could cause damage to the motors, movement belts, etc?
Also, any advice on how to best keep heat in?
Has anyone ever heard of damage to their printer from using this method?
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Hello,
I tried to put a large cardboard box around my UM3 to keep in the heat when making objects with ABS/Nylon/etc. The issue is that without an escape, the UM3 gets very very hot, and I was wondering if this could cause damage to the motors, movement belts, etc?
Also, any advice on how to best keep heat in?
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Hello,
I have some older (3+ month) PVA that was recently opened. When using it, I've noticed it has a tendency to "pop" when going through the extruder. Not always, but when it does it can result in poor support. Any idea how to mitigate this? (as I mentioned, though a bit old it was in a sealed package and I'm in a very dry environment)
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8 hours ago, yellowshark said:
Ooh yes yeugh. Try any or all of all print speeds set to 30mm/s (1st layer 20mm/s) Fan 100% extruder temp; with layer height of .300 the probably no higher than 200 - cooler if layers are thinner; assuming a .4 nozzle then line width .4 and wall size a multiple of .4 I assume you are not using spiralise.
Not using spiralize. I would like to do it at .06mm and have it work.
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5 hours ago, gr5 said:
Could you show a photo? It must be a strangely shaped vase to get stringing. In general I get zero stringing. Zero. I print slow and cool. On UM3 usually 30 or 40mm/sec on outer layer.
I uploaded a photo - it was actually a bit worse as I had scraped some of the stringing off earlier.
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I'm trying to print a vase scaled to 50%. When I do so at a .06mm layer height, there is stringing at the hard edges. I've tried to change the temperature and speed, but haven't had success making it somewhat clean. How do I make it work?
Using ultimaker 3, updated cura, with white PLA
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On 2/26/2018 at 7:31 AM, SteveCox3D said:
One straightforward solution if you don't have printafix is to use the wide (normally brown) packing tape used for sealing up boxes for shipping. I think this tape is actually PP, and PP really only likes to stick to itself, but the adhesive on the other side allows the tape itself to stick to the glass plate.
I've found this to be very effective, the only downside is that when removing the print sometimes it doesn't come away cleanly and some small parts of the tape come away stuck to it that you need to clean off. I've produced PP prints that are as large as the buildplate of the UM2 using this technique with no problems of loss of adhesion.
I will have to try that - do you know a good brand/location that would give best results?
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I just got some PP to test out on my UM3...
I'm pretty disappointed - it has the worst adhesion possible, even with glue/hairspray. I know that one of those expensive build plates is recommended for this material, but I was wondering if anyone had luck printing with just the normal glass buildplate?
Also, if you do use the adhesion base, what are the largest prints you've done with it?
Any tips?
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On 2/17/2018 at 5:59 AM, kmanstudios said:
While I have not used the TPU 95 per se, I have used NinjaFlex and had no issues with organic or supported prints.
The grey is PLA and the black is NinjaSemiFlex. One of my VERY early prints from a year ago.
And all of these are flex (NinjaFlex natural and NinjaSemi-Flex Black and Cheeta Red) prints with many using PVA support. The flat stuff obviously not. But, I never got it as clean as a hard plastic.
That is even a column of cubes that are ball and joint tests I made.
Here is a teeny lettering test with NinjaSemiFlex
NinjaFlex with Matterhackers PVA
NinjaSemiFlex with UM PVA
Painted SemiFlex, even the base for the dinos. Grey is still PLA. Spider is spray painted NinjaSemiFlex.
Ball and joint before assembly
And after assembly with other semiflex prints.
Edit: I found these.
These are the profiles I developed all those eons ago to print these with:
Ninja-SemiFlex-Draft.curaprofile
NinjaFlex NoSprt Normal.curaprofile
This is great! I'll definitely try ninjaflex.
Also, the dinos are really cool
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20 hours ago, dxp said:
Maybe no real help, but i printed dual prints of TPU95A red with PLA as a sealing (was not airtight) on a UM3E successful. Quality rose as i dried the filament. And i tried to avoid supports by using 45°-60°ramps/overhangs and 8-corner holes. Printing a phone case was ok, but the material is too weak for that. All done with the UM-Profiles and a little tweaking.
So you can't really use supports with TIPU? I've been trying but have had no luck.
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16 hours ago, kmanstudios said:
I think it is a question of playing with temps and speed and retractions. And, no matter what, if you look at prints across the web, there seem to be more strings and such on elaborate shapes.
My main issue is that the stringing prevents adhesion between layers - even simple shapes that are a few millimeters high. I've come back to prints only to see them turn into silly string.
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8 hours ago, kmanstudios said:
I think most have used NinjaFlex and others, so it may be that. I do not have experience with that specific filament meself. But I have printed a few dinosaurs with the NinjaFlex materials.
Also, what printer and slicer are you using?
I'm using the ultimaker 3 with the most current cura slicer.
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Surely I can't be the only one to have trouble with this material???
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I just got TPU95A and have been working with it. It seems to be OK for printing simple structures that require almost no jumping, but anything that is large, more complex than a cylinder, or requires support seems to cause ugly stringing that ruins the print and prevents layers from sticking to each other.
Is there a way around this? Also, is there any way to have successful dual prints with this material and PLA/Nylon/etc?
Thanks
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21 minutes ago, nallath said:
The profiles that it can select are also dependant on what the second extruder can print. For example; If the left extruder has 0.06, 0.1, 0.15, 0.2 and the right extruder supports 0.15 and 0.2, you can only select the 0.15 and 0.2
I assume that is what causing issues for you.I think that might be my issue - I have breakaway in the right extruder. However, the restriction still shows up even if I don't try to print using that material.
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I just upgraded Cura, and while the older version had options for layers of .1/.06mm, this only has options for .15 and .2 mm. Is this is a bug? Or will that be added later?
Thanks
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This is caused by a miscommunication between the Linux board and the Atmel board.
There's several causes, most of which (but unfortunately 1 not yet) are solved in the firmware release 3.7 which appeared less than a week ago.
Did you already upgrade your printer to 3.7?
I haven't upgraded the firmware yet - will do as soon as I can and see how that goes.
What is the 1 case that is not fixed?
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I'm using Cura 2.6.1 (newest release) on a UM3.
I keep getting this "Detected move outside of normal printer volume" even if I'm printing a 1" block in the center of the build plate!!!
I rarely print anything larger than a few inches, and I always center my prints.
What is causing it, and how do I fix it? I had this issue with the previous cura, but thought the new version would have taken care of it.
Thanks
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Apparently one of the magnets had fallen out of the holster (and had become twisted around the steel pole) - gluing it back into place fixed the issue. Thanks!
Can you share a picture? it usually helps.
Normally the magnets touch the 2 front long screws to hold on to... is there something stopping the lid to close completely? Is the "silicone nozzle cover" properly seated? are the little metal "wings" on the bottom metal plate not bend (check if left and right look the same).
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The fan holder that you open to change the extruder heads - mine is coming loose and falling out for no reason that I can see. The magnets are still there but I don't know exactly what is happening or how to fix it. I'm using scotch tape but that's a quick fix and I need something permanent. How do I repair it?
Help with major clog in bb 0.4mm nozzle
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hello all,
My new BB printcore became clogged after only a few uses, and nothing I've done so far is able to fix it (multiple hot/cold pulls, trying to force extrusion). It's gotten so bad that even trying to heat the core and extrude by pushing filament doesn't cause any extrusion.
What should I do? Should I try to remove the nozzle head and clean from there? I'm very disappointed right now, as nothing like this has happened before.
Thanks