Tiger91
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Posts posted by Tiger91
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When you say manually clean out the nozzle. Is this via the cold pull method (atomic pull) ?
I use hot and cold, as well as push a small amount of filament through the end using either string or a small metal rod.
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What material do you use?
Have used mainly PLA/PVA, used a little ABS as well.
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What materials are you printing with and what core(s) have been clogging?
I have only ever had one core block and that was the BB core and PVA with too much water content.
Are you allowing the printer to finish its cooldown steps? Do you turn the print off straight after it has parked the head back in the corner?
Both types (AA and BB) have clogged at different times.
I allow the printer to cooldown if I'm not printing anything else soon, otherwise I'll just do a begin next print as it seems to fail quite often.
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Hi,
I've had my UM3 for a few weeks and it seems that after every 3-4 prints I have to manually clean out the nozzle regardless of what I do or what material I use. None of my other printers were so prone to jamming - is it something I'm doing wrong or a defect in design?
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Ok
So you use quality filament. The most relevant thing is that it needs to be 2.85 mm. If it's collorfab or um or makerpoint etc is irrelevant.
Let's try to find your issue. I say it's either the feeder or the core or the bowden.
You should have 2 AA cores. Use them both on the left and both on the right and tell us if it made a difference. Are the bowden's ok? No damage anywhere? You get check them by disconnecting them from the head and manually pushing fillament thru them to feel if the is any extra resistance.
Another thing. If you do a cold pull what does the tip off the pla comming out look like? Did you try on both the AA cores and compare? Pictures could help here...
Hi,
First, I only use 2.85 mm filament.
I've been doing some testing, and it seems like the bowden tube doesn't have issues. The past two prints have come out great - an 8 hour one had no issues after I cleaned the extruder, but I don't know if the grinding will continue.
I'll do a cold pull later and upload some photos, but I would bet its the extruder or the feeder (or both)
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What default profile do you use and what are your slight mods for PVA?
From which supplier do you get your filament?
I usually use normal or fast when printing.
My PVA mods are usually to change the support density by a few % points, and have an extra layer of 100% infill dense interfaces.
I get my filament from 3D universe, either official UM3 filament or colorfabb.
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Hi @Tiger91, thank you for your feedback.
Going back to basics, could you set your feeder to the recommended tension (middle), use your Ultimaker red PLA and use a default profile from Cura 2.4?
Could you include a photo of the model you are trying to print?
Is it old or relatively new PLA?
Have you tried different materials, to rule out you might be dealing with a bad reel of filament (if so, would be unfair to blame the printer).
Are you using your AA print core for PLA Red? AA for PLA / Nylon / ABS etc and BB is for PVA.
The print core is not suppose to jam and should be pretty reliable. I am pretty sure we can help diagnose what is not working as it should in your case, but we need some more information to do so.
Looking forward to hear from you.
Hi - to answer your questions, I use Cura 2.4.0 on default for extruder 1, slight mods to extruder 2 when using PVA.
I always use my AA print core, and have had grinding issues with multiple colors of filament.
My filament is brand new, less than a week old and straight from the supplier.
I clean the nozzles and feeding tubes frequently using the atomic method and compressed air (though I wouldn't think I should have to after every few prints).
Ive had the trouble with a few types of prints, from Benchy to a platform jack to a Star Trek spaceship.
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There is something wrong then.
If you provide some extra info we may be able to help you.
Erin has already asked the most important questions.
Retractions, however, are no issue. The whole system can easily do extreme amount of retractions, we have done numerous torture tests on this.
I've been working on this printer trying different configurations. Most recently, I've been having lots of trouble with official UM red PLA. I print using standard settings in Cura/S3D (200 degrees C). I've done multiple cleans, but no matter what the heads seem to keep getting clogged up, which likely helps cause the issues with retraction/grinding/stopping. Are the heads supposed to jam after switching filaments a few times? The first hour tends to print beautifully but no matter how much I clean my UM3 is susceptible to clogs. Should I raise the temperature? How do I prevent the clogs while keeping good precision?
IMO the design seems wonky - my Robo R1 has been around for almost 2 years and there have been ZERO clogs like what I've seen on my much more expensive UM3.
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Hello everyone,
When I first connected to my network, I was able to print over Cura and see it in the phone app.
For some reason, this connectivity stopped, even though my wifi network is running, and the printer itself says its connected to my network.
I've tried restarting the printer, my computer, my wifi network, and even resetting the network from scratch with no success.
How can this be fixed?
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There is an indicator on the feeder that shows the tension setting. For all standard materials it should be in the middle position.
The picture shows I think regular Ultimaker silver PLA. If you had to set the feeder tension to something else than the middle position, something else is wrong. Your reseller will be able to help you.
I've had to set it to the least tension (white bar at the very top).
Even then there's still some grinding.
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Printjobs with a lot of retraction can cause this problem.
Also there is a way to release tension in the feeder by tightening the small top screw on the feeder, this could help too...
I think it was the tension that was too high. I reduced it by a significant amount and it seems to work ok now.
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Hello UM community,
I started using my UM3 on Friday. In the past few days my filament got ground down to the point that it became blocked and the print failed.
This is more failure occurrences than my Robo R1 (which was 1/4 the cost). Has anyone else had this problem, and how do you fix it? Attached is a picture for reference.
Thanks
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I downloaded Cura to use with my new UM3, and it is able to print PVA support that sticks to the bed no problem. However, I love S3D because it is much faster than Cura (9 hours vs 3 for one print.
My problem is that when I try to use S3D for PVA, it always tends to lift from the build plate no matter how much glue/hairspray I use. I'm able to get the regular PLA to stick though.
Does anyone know the best settings for S3D so it can successfully print PVA on the UM3?
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I somehow got it up and running after six failures - not sure what changed.
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Hi everyone,
I have a nexus 5 and would like to be able to print/view prints from my phone.
Unfortunately, I am not able to connect to the home network I use because the N5 is just bad like that.
Has anyone had this trouble and found workarounds? I get authentication problem when I try to connect?
Of course, if there was a way to monitor the print from my email account, or something else that would be great to know.
Thanks.
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Hi guys,
According to my invoice, I should be receiving my new UM3 in a few days. I wanted to know if you had any tips for "breaking it in." I would like to test its abilities and if you know any torture tests that would be useful please tell me about them.
Also, what is your favorite place to get decent filament for the UM3 that's not from the website (kind of expensive). I used hatchbox but found it was likely to snag. Any good brands?
Thanks!
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I'm hoping to get a few printers for different types of prints. For instance, one that's fast for simple mechanical parts, one that is accurate for making assemblies, and one that could do models. If the UM3 can do simple parts fairly quick, it would bias me towards getting it first as I have limited funds at the moment.
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Hello everyone. I'm thinking of starting a 3D printing business in my spare time and am likely going to get either an UM3 or a Replicator+. I hear the replicator is very fast, but the UM3 is much more versatile.
I wanted to get your opinions on how well the UM3 works in real life compared to the videos. Can you print complex assemblies (such as gearboxes or the spinning spheres) well enough? Is it consistent? Can you get it to print quickly if you need it to? How about use with simplify 3D (if you have any). How often does it experience issues? Do you recommend ultimately?
Thanks!
Removal of PLA support structures from Cura print
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted · Edited by Guest
Hi everyone,
I usually use Simplify 3D for the amazingly easy to remove supports, but sadly I'm finding that S3D is just not well calibrated for the UM3.
When I want to use support in Cura, it doesn't seem to matter how much distance (horizontal or vertical) I place between the support and my model. It usually comes out in such a way that I'm not able to remove the supports, and have to throw away my print.
Does anyone have experience tweaking the cura settings to make the supports very easy to remove (like in S3D).