Tiger91

I guess they are in Cura since the dropdown options allow for the .4 or the .8

I heard that these could be useful - but I've been out of the loop for a little while. Does anyone recommend getting them, and how do you utilize them? Also, where are the best prices (if its been released)?

I would like to branch out with the dual printing, and I would like to know a couple of things: -Is there any good source for what prints well together? Could I Do PLA/PVA/ABS/CPE/Nylon/Ninjaflex in any mix and match order? Or are there some things that just don't go well together? I tried CPE/PLA recently, and I could get PLA to stick to the CPE but not the other way around. -How do you design for dual prints on CAD? Do you just do a boolean operation? Or should there be some overlap? Anyone have good notes? Thanks for any help!

As I have experimented, I have created that by what DidierKlein says. I have tried to push boundaries to increase speed without sacrificing quality and two things have affected the infill in my tests. 1. Infill speed 2. choosing a type of infill that has steps involved (Tetrahedral as an example) and setting them too high. Just passing that on and seconding the suggestion. Just checked, at default print speed and infill speed is 70 mm/s. Everything else is default.

I've been printing and noticed recently that the infill looks like its kind of weak and scraggly: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3BtcLye8-jzb0lzRnVzbFp0bUU/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3BtcLye8-jzWmtfMDUzZ3NDQW8/view?usp=sharing The strange thing is that's a fairly recent change, it used to have thick, connected infill. I only changed the infill % in cura, nothing else. Using PLA mainly, and its still happening after updating Cura to the latest version. Anyone know what might be happening and how to fix it? I've tried it with both nozzles, and both motors, so I'm pretty sure its an issue with the software. The outside walls of the prints are fine though.

Using W10 - the last time I tried to add the IP manually it wasn't able to find it though.

Happened again - am I the only one with this problem???

Anyone have possible solutions? I just encountered the lost connection yet again :(

I'm not sure if it would be possible to change this forum, but other 3D printing forums allow you to upload pictures/files directly from your computer (below a certain file size). It seems that it would make a lot of things easier if that was possible on this forum as well.

My UM3 has a turquoise filament in the primary and clear PLA in the secondary. I would like to print something using only the clear. How do I do this? Is there a cura option (I have most current version) that would allow me to do this? Would I have to go through G code? If so, what exactly should I do? Thanks for any help

There are two highly irritating issues with the UM3 that I would like to know how to fix: -Sometimes, when I insert a USB into my UM3, if I go to "print" it won't show any files and instructs me to insert a USB or print over cura. I have to restart the printer in order for the files to show. How do I avoid this? -Also an issue is the fact that sometimes CURA will become unable to detect my UM3 no matter how many times I refresh, or recreate a hotspot. The only way I'm able to fix it is to unplug my router for 5 minutes and then reset it. How do I fix this problem without all that crap? Thanks

I was just wondering since I'm planning on starting a 3D printing business, and wanted to test my UM3 to see how capable it is.

I'll upload some Is there a way of directly putting up pics from the desktop?

Do you know if it would be possible to print at the minimum UM3 temp? If that can't be done, how do you change the temp to 160C?

Having printed carbon nanotube (not fiber) filled materials before, I'm scared that this material will destroy your nozzle in no-time. Carbon nanotubes are about as hard as diamonds, so they will wear away anything. I don't know how much CNTs are in the material, but for proper conductivity you need a significant amount. I managed to completely destroy the nozzle hole in ~ 1 m of filament with my own carbon nanotube filament... There is a Copper nanowire (because Copper nanotube made very bad abbreviations) filament available, which is more conductive but also much more expensive and harder to print. What do you mean by "harder to print"? Are they more prone to clogs/jams/failure? Will it destroy the nozzle? How about this (https://www.multi3dllc.com/product/electrifi-3d-printing-filament/) Would that be safer?

I found this: https://glutco.com/products/functionalize-f-electrica-2-85mm-highly-conductive-3d-printing-pla-filament-0-5-lbs-226-8-g It has a reasonable resistivity of .75 ohm*cm. For small boards, this would be reasonable and shouldn't interfere too much with design. What I'm wondering is whether this filament is safe to print and can be used for simple electronic prototypes - I don't want to ruin a $100 nozzle! I would also assume that the plastics would be resistive enough, but any "bleed" during print could cause shorts and ruin everything.

I think so. If you give me a link to the file, I'll give it a shot myself. Try this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1170674/#files It seems like the lines are too small, but I hope I'm wrong.

I would like to get conductive filament to use for my UM3. I don't think there is "official" UM3 conductive filament, so I'm looking for a good, safe alternative. Does anyone have suggestions on the best place to get some? Also, is it possible to make simple printed circuits using regular PLA/ABS as an insulator? Could you make capacitors/inductors with this method? Thanks

Hi - I've tried your advice and the results are far superior to what I was getting (though not 100% consistent). I prefer using PLA supports for most prints as it allows me to not only print much faster, but use two colors/materials at the same time.

I've tried a few different ways, but I'm never able to get it clean. Is it even possible to print this on a UM3 so it looks decent?

I'm using official ultimaker PLA. I'll try it with no hop, but I was wondering if there should be a reduction in temp/printing speed and if so how much?

I've been trying to print a version of the Eiffel Tower on my UM 3, and as you can see, there have been issues with stringing (even at 120% size) (picture here:) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3BtcLye8-jzZXZ5QkNfSjRaWXM/view?usp=sharing It looks pretty ugly, and I want to change that. Does anyone know if it is possible to print a high-quality version of this on a UM3 using Cura? I've read the manuals on how to reduce the stringing, but if someone could provide me with a ready-solution it would be great (and save me a lot of trial/error time). Of course, if it's not possible to print this on the UM3, it would be nice to know that too. Thanks

Hi UM community, I'm trying to get the settings right for printing this with PLA so the supports can be easily removed: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:250645 Unfortunately, I'm having lots of trouble getting them right so the print is stable, has a good looking lower section, AND has supports that aren't fused to the print. If anyone can print this out with Cura PLA supports, and tell me how to do it I would be very appreciative.

Hello UM community, Since PVA is so expensive, I've been trying to get regular prints done with only PLA support like in regular one extruder head printers. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble getting the settings right so that the support woks well AND comes off easy. It seems no matter how much distance I set between the support and the print, it will still stick to the main body and be impossible to clean off. Does anyone have tips on how they are able to set the support to come off easy with few marks? I'm used to simplify 3D which is an absolute breeze. Thanks!

The post name was a mistake on my part - I meant PLA when I said PVA. I must have been tired. Anyway, I'm having trouble removing PLA support from my prints - they tend to stick to the base.