nzo
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3D Prints
Posts posted by nzo
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Thank you Geert and Job. Sounds like PLA powder is not available by the sackfull
I hear what you're saying about HEAT Geert! I had thought about spraying PLA powder in a liquid medium onto finished prints and re-heating to fuse the new layer. -
Thank you all! I lost this post and only just found it again. Very useful info.
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Thanks UbuntuBirdy,
Nice smooth spoolholder. I've added it to my model library.
For now I've printed the simpler one from thingiverse.
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Update - just heard back from the NZ distributors of Wanhao with this info:
Unfortunately this is a regular issue that is usually overcome by printing a universal holder as per the link below. -
Ultimaker-compatible spool hubs have a smooth 52mm diameter hole - Wanhao holes are also 52mm overall but are full of struts and definitely do not fit on the UM2+ spool holder.
Before I start destroying Wanhao spools, any alternative suggestions gratefully appreciated.
I don't have an empty UM2+ spool handy which would be the simplest way.
Thanks!
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Another super efficient option is to buy a small amount of 1" 1300°C ceramic fiber. Ebay has it at inexpensive prices. Cut the fiber to your build-plate size and place on your plate. You can play a welding torch on the fiber upper surface while resting it on your hand. The fiber's low thermal mass stops heat instantly. Should heat the build-plate very fast.
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Hadn't thought of that ahoeben.
I don't know if glueing the two halves might create a thin layer of glue 'color' (different to the print's color) that will become visible when I cut into the lens post-processing.
Only one way to find out
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Hi all,
I'd like to experiment with printing a simple bi-convex lens shape, something like an old-style magnifying glass or loupe on my UM2+. Transparency and optical qualities are not required. So it will be thick in the middle, tapering to thin on the outer edge.
[media=71309][/media]
I want use PLA to print the finish as smooth as possible, but will probably have to do some post-print sanding and polishing. Diameter will be about 4 to 5cm, max thickness about 1 to 1.5 cm.
My question is: would such a model be best printed flat on the build plate and on top of a raft.? I'm thinking of making it solid PLA. I haven't messed with rafts before.
Any suggestions appreciated. Thank you!
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Huge thanks tommyph1208. Went shopping for spray and brush-on paints today and found a nice rich gold as well as some black and white gesso. Next I'll dig out my airbrush and give it a good once-over clean.
Cheers my friend.
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Hi tommyph1208...
Your help much appreciated - thank you! I was planning on printing with black PLA but I'm guessing whatever filament color I use, applying some spray-filler will give me a smoother overall result once the shiny primer and gold layers are added. By using a black filament, will I still require the black shiny primer?
Do you recommend any particular brand of spray for the filler and black shiny primer? I'm pretty clueless to model painting
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I've no illusions that whatever I choose, the "gold" will look fake. So far I've been looking at gold-leaf, gold Atelier spray paint or just brushing on gold paint (acrylic?).
Any tips on how to get a good post-print gold finish?
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Great lateral thinking Geert - thank you!
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Thanks Geert! I only have a single print head at the moment so I'm limited to one material at a time. But what's a few PLA support scars between friends
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Thank you Ewoud for sharing your info and your offer of designing! I'll take what you and others have suggested and try things out a bit more. Thingiverse seem to limit themselves to flat, simple toy sails.
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Just curious as to what people used in the pre-PVA era?
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That'll get me going again tinkergnome. Much appreciated!
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Perhaps one way to create various PLA sail shapes would be to print them flat, then shape them on a concave or convex form using a heat gun.
Comments?
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Is it possible and how did you do it?
Thanks.
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[print=37549][/print]
Hi All,
OUTLINE:
I'd like to use my UM2+ to print two sails and "half a boat hull". This is intended for an art project that would use simplified versions of small boat sails bellied-out with wind, i.e. a jib and a mainsail. I imagine the sails would be printed flat on the printbed with the wind-belly facing up. The curves are not severe - for the jib (foresail) maybe 1/2" from printbed to the curve's highest point, and for the mainsail about 1/4" from bed to highest point.
The boat hull would be sliced in half vertically and the cut face would sit flat on the print bed.
RESULT:
After printing, the sails and hull would form a montage glued to a non-printed hardboard backing - like a 3-D picture in a frame that could be hung on a wall.
I'd be using white PLA that could be smoothed and painted.
It works in my head
Does anyone have any tips on how I can model the sails without having to be a mathematical genius? I have several freebie software design progs (OpenScad, Blender, Meshmixer).
Thank you!
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I understand. Definitions and paths change over time, just like operating systems
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@shadowfiend: Click on the gallery link on the left of your screen, on the new page you click the blue "Upload" button towards the top right. From there just follow the instructions.
Hi Robert,
The right-hand button you refer to is now (3 years later) called "Upload 3D Print" - that's maybe confusing for newbies. Perhaps UM could get their webmaster to change that to "Upload 3D Print and/or Image". Syntax is all-important.
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Thanks for your light-speed reply IRobertI. That's a very handy tutorial. I'll go through it when the sun comes up
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This is a Thingiverse lotus blossom model, printed at approx 9cm width.
The printing went well but I noticed these splits/delaminations (?) on top of the finished print.
Nozzle temp: 210°C
Build plate temp: 60°C
Adhesion: Geert's salt water methodd3v5bfco3dani2.cloudfront.net
Material: 3mm silver PLA
Object size: 9cm width
I checked the Visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide but am none the wiser.
https://d3v5bfco3dani2.cloudfront.net/photo/image/420x350/596f8ce20b1fc/half-lotus-3mmPLA.JPG
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Still learning! I had just started an hour-long print of a flat lotus blossom in high-quality mode. Once the brim was completed I noticed the lotus extrusion was a little thin on one side so I gently tweaked one of the levelling screws to raise the build-plate by a hair which fixed it.
I wondered how many of you use this method?
I hear what you're saying about HEAT Geert! I had thought about spraying PLA powder in a liquid medium onto finished prints and re-heating to fuse the new layer.
How does one delete an unused Album?
in UltiMaker.com
Posted
Searched the forum but no info. Thanks!