nzo
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Posts
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3D Prints
Posts posted by nzo
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(The link you provided doesn't work for me)
Sorry Peter, I screwed up the HTML link code. Works now...HERE
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Now have some gauge feelers - thank you.
ahoeben: I only microwave pets on low. But they are delicious!
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Felt like plastic. I'm a slow learner.
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Got it IRobertI & medusa! Thank you.
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I decided to try Geert's salt-water method today and was blown away. A thin, hardly visible layer of salt on the glass plate created trouble-free adhesion. When cool, the prints simply pop off with light pressure.
No fuss, no mess. I could not believe it until I had printed 3 of Geert's "snake" clamps for the UM2+ feeder tube and wiring loom. No pressure on the feeder tube, just support.
Thank you Geert
If you're interested you can get details here. Grab the info while you can.
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I had some tiny amount of PLA stuck to mine and decided to soak it in warm water. Big mistake. The card delaminated and is screwed. It is not solid plastic throughout.
UM - May be an idea to let your customers know this. Keep it away from water!
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Thanks. Have you by any chance used Geert Keteleer's salt water method on your build plate?
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That's good to know. I'm using PC, Win 7 Ultimate.
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How to apply the Atomic Method
Not sure what's causing it - multiple embedded videos? Buggy page code? Text loads ok but not video content. Page just sits there for 5 minutes while "amazonaws" churns away in background, trying to download. Then browser crashes.
Have disabled all Firefox plugins; that's not the problem. Latest Firefox version.
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Thanks lRobertl - spot on. The other menus are ok. The fast scrolling is what the Print menu is supposed to do to get from A to B.
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I'm so sorry to be so long replying!
Thank you for your responses SandervG and Labern. Is there a notification setting when there are replies to my posts?
Labern - I'm in Manukau City, Auckland.
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Unless I've missed it, I've not found the answer to this anywhere. What do you do when printing with glue?
Thank you.
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I'm puzzled why Ultimaker continue maintaining and improving their Cura software, when a large number of members assert that the UM2+ LCD display is all one needs. It may simply be that's what they prefer but why so down on Cura as a source of potential problems. I run a fast PC with USB3 and have had much help from Pronterface, Cura, MatterControl etc when I set up a Prusa i3 recently. I'm not yet into printing aircraft wings so all my models on the UM2+ have been on the small side. Power cuts are relatively infrequent.
Thanks for your comments.
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Hi all,
After I've selected a category in the UM2+ display such as 'Print', when I attempt to select a model from the available model list, the list scrolls very rapidly (up or down), making it impossible to select an item. IOW, the list does not remain static, it zooms very fast.
I've tried factory reset, switching the printer off and on. Got me beat.
Any input welcome. Thanks.
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After building (and still futzing with for months) an ANYCUBIC Prusa i3 Mendel, I'm looking at Ultimaker as a next possibility. I'm more of an artist than an engineer, and although the retail price of an Ultimaker 2+ in New Zealand is pretty steep, I'm looking at a printer that will allow me to create and build rather than futz. The i3's Chinglish manual is so poorly written and illustrated it drove me round the twist. Their aluminium build plate was bent and some of the other kit parts were questionable. I haven't yet printed a damn thing
I've been doing lots of reading about Ultimaker. Is it correct that Ultimaker use only 3mm (2.85mm) filament and what is the primary reason for that? Much of the filament available in NZ is 1.75mm.
Thanks and greetings to all.
Geert Keteleer's Salt Water build-plate adhesion...amazing!
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Nice to see you here Geert!
Yes, so far PLA only.
The salt is only a very thin layer, almost like breathing on glass but probably thinner. Adhesion is superb.