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About shadowfiend

  • Birthday 11/29/1972

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  1. Hi robinmdh, Thanks for your reply, I know that there are a couple of online firmware builders for the UMO and might have used one before, although I can remember any details. So I'm guessing that I would download the latest firmware build from GitHub and use an Ultimaker firmware builder to make it compatible. Was this your line of thinking? If anybody else has managed to implement Mesh Bed Levelling on an Ultimaker Original, I would be grateful to hear your experiences. I have an Arduino sketch saved on my computer, so I'm assuming, that if anything goes wrong I can just re-upload the image. Cheers, Ian.
  2. Hi firmware gurus! So I have been having problems with bed levelling on my UMO with official heated bed upgrade and strongly suspect that the glass is not flat. Then found this video and it blew my mind! Manual Mesh Bed Leveling - YouTube I have searched for any info on someone doing this on an Ultimaker Original, but can not find anything. I recently updated the firmware over USB from Cura latest version I think. From the Ulticontroller:- Firmware version Ultimaker: DEV GIthub checkout May 3 2018 16:59:11 In the video they guy says to search for Mesh Bed Levelling in the configuration.h tab (from Arduino software) and enable it there. I did this but there is no Mesh Bed Levelling in my version of the firmware. So my questions are:- Has anybody done this and would anybody be able to explain how to do it please? Many thanks in advance. Cheers, Ian.
  3. These are the videos from my YouTube channel. The second video is of the casting process for the Easter Island head as proof of concept, where 3D prints can be used as patterns for sand casting. The videos concentrate more on the metal casting process and less on the 3D printing aspect. The overall purpose being that the 3D prints are the patterns. I currently do not have many photographs as I have only just started this process. More will be coming in the very near future and I will be shooting the third video today. A brass hook is on its way! I look forward to any and all feedback. I would like to know what others have experienced if/when they have tried getting their prints cast at a traditional foundry. Introduction video that explains my business and shows some of the processes of casting. The second video shows some of the steps involved in casting the Easter Island head. Unfortunately I had a problem with my DSLR camera and lost a few minutes of footage. This image shows the top of the casting flask (cope) for a Nema 17 heat sink mould. This was my first brass casting and it failed :c( I will be casting this again soon, with lots of media :c) You can see the two holes are the 'spure' and 'riser' for the metal to flow in and out of the mould. The radial lines are vents to allow gasses to escape during casting. Many thanks. Ian.
  4. Hi geert, I have a website and YouTube channel, would it be ok to post the link and embed the videos here? The last thing I want to do is appear spammy. Thanks.
  5. Hi Ultimakers, I would like to share my experience with making patterns for metal casting with my Ultimaker Original. I started a business last year with the intention of setting up a metal casting foundry tailored to casting 3D printed patterns in metal specifically for the 3D printing community. I have a small industrial unit and have made most of my own equipment; one small furnace and a much larger one that is a work in progress. I have the means to produce small sand castings, but I hope to expand this to include investment casting in the future. I am using oil bonded sand to produce the moulds and I have tried aluminium and brass so far. After a lot of failed castings in the beginning, I ditched my 'home made' green sand and bought in some proper foundry oil bonded sand. This improved things tremendously and I am now getting good castings. One of the reasons for choosing sand casting is that 3D printing seems to be a perfect match for making sand casting patterns. Often a split pattern is ideal for many shapes, this is where the pattern is cut along the parting line; the beauty of this is that the need for support material can often be eliminated. The Easter Island head I cast last week was 34mm tall and was printed in PLA at 0.2mm layer height after some light sanding I simply pushed the pattern into the sand, smoothed out the parting line and rammed up the second part of the flask. I melted some brass and poured it into the mould. Some minutes later, I knocked out the flask and out came a successful casting. I will be casting more objects very soon and will keep posting my results here. I would be very interested in questions, suggestions and comments. I would be happy to offer advice on designing patterns for sand casting. If you would like to check out my progress so far, please check out my profile for the link to my web site. Cheers, Ian.
  6. This is the sort of behaviour that has been driving me nuts for ages in all versions of Cura. Here is a thread I started on the topic. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/51264-cura-27-toolpath?page=last I would like to bring attention to this ongoing issue as I know that all users would benefit from an intensive look at the code by the Cura team.
  7. Hi smartavionics, I understand what you are saying here, but I do appreciate you taking the time to have looked into it. Perhaps GitHub would be the place for me to make a nuisance of myself ;c) Many thanks for your efforts.
  8. Hi smartavionics, Sorry I've been busy with some real life stuff, so I missed your post. This looks very interesting, if you post the gcode before and after and I will happily look through to help identify any remaining strange behaviours, if that is helpful. Many thanks.
  9. That's excellent smartavionics, I'm sure a lot of people will be delighted to see the improvement this would make to print quality and performance. When there are a lot of unnecessary moves, retractions and extra time spent on a layer there is more stress on the printer and more inconsistency in filament deposition and failed prints. With the announcement of Cura v3, It would be great to see this issue finally put to rest and help to make Cura the market leader that I know it can be.
  10. Thanks smartavionics, I think that if there was some way of tracking down who had corrected the code for the top and bottom surfaces, we might politely ask them to do the same for the infill patterns ;c)
  11. Hi smartavionics, Yes the v 2.7 top and bottom layers do seem to be working much better, however the infill is still doing some crazy stuff. Please see the gocode in the link:- GCODE On layer 5 the squre shape is behaving badly. The infill (zig zag) is starting in the bottom right and going to the bottom left corner, but then when it starts the other part it does not pick up at the starting point of the infill. Instead it starts a new line in the top left, comes back to the bottom right corner and meets up with the starting point. This is where it gets funky; the lines touching the shell are drawn out of sequence forcing a non extrusion move over the top of each previously printed short line. In Gcode Analyzer you can step through this line by line and see this happening using the scroll handles and cursor keys. If I was to make a suggestion, I would say this. Choose a polyline and start printing at the beginning and continue to the end. I'm sure that this is an easy fix to those who know the slicing code. No need for any 'travelling salesman' gymnastics, just follow the polyline from start to end. Are you with me? Many thanks
  12. I'm very interested in knowing if there is any way to control the way that the toolpath is generated, or to be more accurate, the order in which the computed paths are printed. For the most part when I have looked at the gcode in Gcode Analyzer the actual toolpath is exactly what I want. The problem is that the code that optimises the order of printing seems to undo the good work the toolpath generation code has made. For example, we have all seen the situation where, say in a simple rectangle, it starts in the middle somewhere and then moves somewhere else for a bit, then leaves gaps and finally comes back and fills them in all the while creating unnecessary retractions and moves. When our human intuition would say start at the bottom left and continue to the top right corner and don't do anything crazy in the middle. I apologise if I am going over old ground here but the thing that bugs me the most is that on some layers it is totally perfect!!! I'm sure that I'm not the only one to be frustrated by this, as it would make such a difference to the quality and reduce the number of failed prints. Thanks.
  13. Hi ahoeben, Thanks for your contribution :c) Yes it got set automatically, I thought it may have been a 'safety' feature to avoid breaking the graphics hardware, I've had similar things happen in other software. Will your fix make it into an official update? Best regards.
  14. Ok I fixed it. I went to Preferences > Configure Cura > Plugins > Solid View (was disabled) So I turned it back on and restarted Cura, all be it in ‘compatibility mode’. So then go Preferences > Configure Cura > General > Viewport Behaviour > [uncheck] Force layer view compatibility mode (restart required) All is now working again. Yay.
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