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Hoffa

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  1. Thanks for the tips, but a fix like that isn't solving the issue, nor is it what I feel I paid for when I opted to get Ultimaker printers. Once I'm done with current projects, I'll just switch out those LED strips for ones with even lighting, and I'll keep hoping UM developers decide to implement something in Cura or in the printer itself that allows me to play with the lighting colours.
  2. For now I ended up turning the lights off completely. I'll have to see about times when I want to remotely monitor the print - I guess then I can live with it. I usually keep the lights on my UM2+ off anyway, unless I want to film a timelapse or have some people over that want to see the printer.
  3. Thanks Smithy for that info, I bet it'll be similar from my local company, these prices are pretty much fixed as far as I can tell - taxes change slightly from country to country, of course. I need the silicone nozzle guard and possibly something else, so I might just make it a bundle... I'll try to see if my eye can get used to this colourscape for a few more days.
  4. After all those fun and games, it came time to restart the printer, and we're back to square one... This image, now that it's dark, really shows the extent of the issue. On a side note, I actually had broken sensor wires, so the bed leveling issue has maybe been resolved. I still don't plan on having it run automatically, of course, but it's a handy trick and since I technically paid for it, I want it to work as well as it can. It was a 10 minute fix, not counting another 5 minutes hunting down a lost screw...
  5. Alright, after trying a factory reset (didn't know I can't skip the whole insert filament tutorial!) and enabling developer mode, I managed to use sendgcode over ssh to achieve some results. What this clearly shows, is that all colours work fine (I ran a number of primary and secondary colours in RGB with the W turned to 0.) The light of r255g255b255w000 is sort of balanced, but as soon as W is given any value, the change becomes evident. With M124 r000g000b000w255 the situation looks as per my original picture. So, I can now confirm that the light strip in my printer is composed of 1/3 "cool white" and 2/3 "warm white" type LEDs. Why/how this is, I don't know... How much this will cost to replace, I also don't know, but I'll send in a request to my local dealer.
  6. Damn... If they're going to disable stuff like this, they should implement it as a feature in the UI at least! - Why have coloured lights if you can't use them? This is such a small thing, and it's currently occupying so much of my time, it's really silly... But this machine really won't fit into my fung shui'd workspace looking like it does.
  7. Discolour slightly, sure, but exactly 2/3 yellow and 1/3 blue? When off, there is no colour difference in the LED strips or housings, so I'd say it's not that. Currently I'm stuck on why the gcode light changing doesn't work. If someone with latest firmware can confirm or deny it works for them, that would be very helpful!
  8. Tried the M142 RGBW implementation into gcode but nothing changed. I tried both turning everything off and turning specific colors on, as per the video (except in gcode files I put on a USB stick and plugged into the printer). I hadn't even noticed before, but the top light strip is also the warm white, so it looks like the left is the odd man out being the cool white - it's also closer to the ~4000K that I'd like to look at. The previous owner said they hadn't noticed anything, but since this was in use before they got it, I'm wondering if maybe the left LED strip has been changed out at some point...
  9. I've got a few other mysterious issues with the printer, such as active leveling failing at the beginning of a print, but being completely fine when I access it from the menu. And I just had a print try to start below the prints surface three times in a row, but start just fine on the fourth go - this was printing over network (a new thing to me that I just wanted to try out so I have a rounded skillset...) What I'm wondering is, whether it could be a firmware issue. I have what the machine claims to be the latest (5.2.11 - 2019/05/03). Can a firmware installation be corrupt in these ways without it causing a lethal fault and error message from the printer?
  10. I recently got myself a second hand (thirs hand maybe?) UM3, and after cleaning it up and doing all the calibrating, one thing still bothers me... The frame lights are completely different colours! The left is a very blue white, probably around 5500K and the right is a white so warm its basically a banana - Around 2300K if my well trained eye isn't mistaken. See attached picture, it's taken in overcast sunlight so pretty neutral. I can post more pictured once it's dark and the light is more visible. Is this a result of something up with the firmware or some random customisation, or are the strips just really weird? I know you can supposedly program these in full RGB, so if I can find a fix through that, I'd be more than happy to give it a go, too! Either way, this really hurts my soul at the moment.
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