th10gt

Thanks, neute, but unfortunately it's not an UMS3 but a UM3... Meanwhile: I've read here a hint to switch back to "factory settings" and to set active levelling period to something else than "Never". A lot of work to do after switching back to factory settings. But at the end: No progress, problem is still the same!

Hi all, I'm writing in English even being a German... Some days ago I've upgraded my UM3 to the latest version of the firmware (5.3.0). In addition I had to level the print bed. I did it manually first and after that I've started active levelling. The process of active leveling went well without any problems. When starting a new print no filament was extruded because the nozzle was much too close to the print bed. Fastening the screws moved the print bed away from the nozzle and filament was extruded. But the result was awfull because the print bed wasn't levelled precisely anymore. I've tried to fix that by carefully turning the screws but the result was quite poor. I replaced the print head by a new one and also checked the sensor (--> Diagnostics --> Sensor). The sensor test was good and the problem wasn't solved. I've posted my problem inside a FaceBook group and received the hint to check the sliding blocks and the surface of the glass. I did and both was fine. So my first question is: What to do to bring back active levelling to good results? In that Facebook group I received a comment saying that that guy exactly had the same problem after upgrading the firmware. He said, he solved the problem by downgrading the firmware to an old version. Even being quite unconfident with this approach (because thousands of others would have the same issue) I would like to give it a try. Second question: Where I can find (and pick) old versions of the firmware? Third question: What is precisely the process to install an old version of the firmware? Thanks in advance for any support... Greetings from Germany!

Hi, noch mal ganz präziese formuliert: Ich habe beim UM3 nicht "abgeschaltet" sondern die "Nivellierungshäufigkeit = Niemals" gesetzt. Nochmals der Menüpunkt ist "neben" und nicht "unter" der aktiven Nivellierung.

Hi Ksstyling, da habe ich etwas unsauber gepostet. Ich hätte schreiben sollen, dass ich einen UM3 habe. Komisch, dass man beim UM5 die Nivellierungshäufigkeit nicht auswählen kann. Achtung der Menüpunkt ist "neben" und nicht "unter" dem der aktiven Nivellierung. Gruß Olaf

Hi, ich bin auch am Verzweifeln mit dem Active Levelling. Habe schon alle Vorschläge ausprobiert und nichts hat geholfen... Aber ein Hinweis: Auch in der aktuellen Firmware kann man unter --> System --> Druckbett --> Nivellierungshäufigkeit diese auf "Niemals" stellen und damit ist diese Funktion dann abgeschaltet. Ich helfe mir so, dass ich zunächst manuell Niveliere und dann ein die Druckplatte fast ausfüllendes Rechteck drucke. Schon beim Drucken der Skirtlinien beobachte ich, ob die gedruckte Linie überall perfekt ist. Zumeist ist sie im hinteren Bereich etwas zu dünn (im Sinne von "flach"). Dann justiere ich das Bett nach, in dem ich die hintere Schraube ganz leicht anziehe.

New firmware (4.3.0.20180227) solving the problem To be honest: My post above didn't last so much. After the next manual leveling active leveling faild again. I tried a lot, but without success. Today I've installed a new test version of the firmware (4.3.0.20180227) and started active leveling again. Watching to the printer the routine seems to be written totally different. But after the first try it's working!

@kcel: Thanks for your advise. It pointed into the right direction... Active leveling working now: Based on the advise from kcel and a thread from somewhere else I fastened all 3 screws of the plate (clock wise seen from below) to their maximum and than I've turned all of them roughly a half turn counter clock wise to untight the plate a little bit. After that I performed manual leveling and after that active leviling worked fine. I've cleaned the print core (first a hot pull and after that a cold pull). Now a different part is just printing. The broader part is left of the plate (seen from above). It's working... I'm still trying to optimize the adjustment of the plate. It's much better now, but not perfect...Where I've adjusted the plate during printing you can see easily. So I think first adjusting and than printing is the better option. But for optimizing the plate during a test print is a very good idea! Remarks & suggestions are welcome! Greetings from Germany

Hi all, I have the same problem. I made a manual leveling of the plate more than once but the print on the left side isn't fine while the right one is perfect. See pictures below. My questions (as a newbie): 1. Is this problem coming from leveling the plate or from something else? 2. If it's coming from leveling. What does it mean? Is the left level of the nozzle too far away from the plate or too close? Any suggestions what to do will drive me happy! Greetings from Germany