Umo_Alex
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Umo_Alex
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I've been able to clean things up a few times by heating it up with a hot air gun and blowing compressed air through it...
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Confirmed. Prints on the back side of the plate are quite a bit harder to remove!
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On 12/6/2021 at 9:52 PM, Travis7s said:
If you can make it work thats great but do note that both sides of the glass are not equal.
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Posted Monday at 09:52 PM · Build plate glass got etched -
Spare plates seem like a good idea.
Besides, each plate has two sides... 😉
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I just realized what must have happened. I wanted to get a print off fast, so I dabbed it with cold water.
Well, it popped right off, but that pop must've been the glass...
Another lesson learnt, I suppose.
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And I'm wondering why?
I used 3DLac and was printing ABS with default Cura settings.
(On my new 2+Connect, btw 😀)
Didn't find any shivers of glass on the prints, or otherwise.So what the h*ll happened?
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@Torgeir,
Received the Dell adapter and tried connecting it, but there was an audible electric crackle and the LED on the adapter turned off. Assuming the connector on my board was shot I bought a new board, but the same thing happens.
Just wondering if I'm connecting it in the wrong orrientation?
On the UMO+ with the original brick the flat side of the connector should be downward (On the UM2+ upward).
How do you connect yours?
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Yeah, but I'd hoped it wouldn't have to be shipped from China, but the US.
Unfortunatily it's still coming from China. (Confirmation email mentions China Post). 😔
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Ordered this one: https://www.pchub.com/dell-common-item-dell-ac-adapter-20v-above-24v-123a-4p-p14v-c14-p160274
PCHub seems to be the only genuine online store that sells these (or so time will tell...).
The rest are all B.S. Chinese sites!! 🙄
Grtz,
Alex.
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The MW power supply at findchips is the same as the one of which I've already used up two.
I've been searching for that Dell brick Torgeir mentioned (or simmilar) for hours but to no avail.
(btw. that allpoweradaptor.com doesn't deliver and I suspect it to be a Chinese site).
So, if anyone knows where to buy the Dell brick that Torgeir has, or one that has the same specs ( output 24 VDC and 12.3 Amp) or more, please let me know!
Or if you know what Dell product that adapter is for, that would make the search a lot easier....
Grtz.,
Alex.
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Guess I'll just dump it in the bin.
Spring cleaning... 😞 -
In my case the thing will print for about 20-30 minutes before it switches off and on again, with or wirhout heated bed.
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I have the same problem with my UMO+.
1) Would TinkerMarlin work on this printer as well?
2) The GS brick doesn't seem to be available anywhere anymore.
There is a GSM (medical) version with the same specs. (No idea what the difference is).
Are you familiar with this bick?
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If the problem only occurs with ABS and not with PLA, I'd think you have a settings problem, not a hardware problem.
(Trying to think along)
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Can't judge from the picture, but did the right arm come off the bed a bit?
In that case you have an adhesion problem.
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Good advice, Geert!
Unfortunately I did all that only after ordering... 💩
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I discovered the "Ironing" option in Cura and tried it on some of my PLA projects.
Didn't see any improvement.
My favorite printing temperature for PLA has always been 200 C.
Should that be higher for ironing to work?
Or am I missing some setting in Cura?
Grtz, Alex.
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3DLac replies:
hello good morning
first of all tell him that we have nothing to do with that page.
Let's find out if there is a distributor behind the website.
we will also take appropriate legal action,
a greeting -
I mailed them through their contact form. Haven't heard back from them, though.
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I was stupid enough to order a couple of cans at https://3dlac.nl. The site turns out to be fake.
No products were delvired.
No reply to email.
There's no phone number to call.
The address doesn't exist.
💩😫
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2
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I was stupid enough to order a couple of cans at https://3dlac.nl. The site turns out to be fake.
No products were delvired.
No reply to email.
There's no phone number to call.
The address doesn't exist.
💩😫
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Trial and error indeed. For instance, after some trials with PLA and my usual settings I came up with 0.1mm.
Worked great with whatever I printed but trying to print the same things with ABS messed up the fitment.
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Thanks for your answers, folks. I'll take a look at 3DLac. 👍
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I've started trying to print with ABS, and it deffinetly needs adhesive.
So I tried glue (Pritt Original) but prints are still coming off.
Is there a specific way to apply the glue? (I've just smeared it on 😄 )
Or is Pritt just not strong enough?
In other words: How do you apply your favorite glue?
Grtz.,
Alex.
Build plate glass got etched
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Just thinking, what about the amount of adhesive?
Maybe I just used too much?