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ChaosLord10

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  1. Right click and drag doesn’t work? I’ve been on a print for a few days no so I haven’t needed to get on.
  2. Ah yes, the Dirty Double Cross. Just be sure to keep your fuel cells charged with plenty of wholesome nutritious alcohol lol. You should print yourself the $300 Tricky Dick fun-bucks
  3. I know what you're going to say. This shirt is bananas lol. Anyway, I was able to sand down the edges to almost a perfect match and the finished product looks great. Thank you for your help
  4. I’ve been slowing it down by about 5mm/s every time I use it and it looks better every time. I worry about overhangs with it going so slow, but I’m sure the layer adhesion would be about perfect at that speed and temperature. Usually I do small test prints whenever I get a new material and start at the low end of the recommended temperature and adjust up or down by 5° each time. That and I like to push the speed to see what kind of bed and layer adhesion I get then slow it down until I’m happy with the smoothness of the walls. Then, because I’m a nerd and overly organized, I keep a journal and an excel spreadsheet of temps and speeds I’ve used. Short list currently, but it’s expanding.
  5. The pock marks on your filament guide may be caused by an extrusion issue. Meaning your filament may not have a nice even flow. This can have several causes. If your filament is not stored in a dry environment, it could have moisture in it. Another simple thing to check is your nozzle. If it is used or old, it may be causing under extrusion. More in depth fixes include calibrating your extrusion settings. I’d start with checking your nozzle, then get a full bed level. Can’t hurt to do it multiple times. Then pick a small print. Like a 6 sided die or something (you can find one on Thingiverse for free), and play with your temperature. Print a few times to find the right temperature for the material you are using. Also be sure to store your material in a dry environment. You can pick up a water tight bin and some of those “do not eat” silica packets at walmart. (I just save them whenever I have new PLA delivered). Anyway, that’s something to start with.
  6. This is a lot of great information. And yes, it seems like MeshLab deleted any polygons attached to the line where I tried to cut instead of making a clean line. I shouldn’t have expected that it would clean up the edges. I was just going to take the time and sand it down after printing until I had a clean level edge to glue. That being said, I tried what you suggested and thus far it has worked like a charm. I didn’t know that you could sink a model below the build surface, it always snapped back up. I set it to .1 mm per layer and slowed the print speed to about 50 mm/s because I’m using silk PLA (It seems to like to run hot and slow.) then added tree supports (a little less waste) touching the build plate at an overhang angle of 70°.
  7. Thank you, I'll try that. I've only been using Cura for a few months and am still learning a lot of the functions. As far as MeshLabgoes, only a few days. Still trying to make heads or tails of that lol. I'm planning to try to tackle it tonight after a Vase I've been working on is finished. I'll most likely post the finished print and final product whenever I have the time to. I was hoping to just be able to polish the whole thing after assembly, but with a seam like that, I may have to sand and paint it before I put in the visor. Thanks again. Edit: Also, in my defense, the jagged edge was created by MeshLab. I just have no clue how to fix it yet. 😅
  8. Backstory made short, I started an 8 day print and suffered a power outage, then another, followed by two more. I have an AnyCubic Chiron. It is supposed to be able to resume a print after restart or power loss, but I think since there were multiple failures in a row, it lost the print. Left me with 90% of a Mandalorin helmet (dying inside). Anyway, after being a bit gun shy for a few days, I opened the model in MeshLab to split and export the model to print the last 10 percent and glue the model. That's just so much material to go to waste and I haven't bought a shredder and filament extruder yet. Now to my problem... I was able to cut off the top 10% of the model in MeshLab and export back into .stl format. When I slice the model, it adds a "lid" (my choice of word, not Cura's). The model is just the top of the helmet. bowl-shaped. I have scoured the internet and keep seeing something called "fix terrible settings", but can not find them anywhere in Cura 4.13.1. Some of those posts are several years old. Is there a way stop Cura from closing off a model that is supposed to be open?
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