jaysenodell

Did you know you can accidentally format an sd card with riser fs if you don’t pay attention on one of my playgrounds? Enders don’t like riser fs sd cards.

Some don’t like folders, spaces, only specific file extensions, require specific folder structures, use custom file extensions , and on and on and on. you need to tell us a bit more about your set up including the printer and computer (with os).

click the object in the SLT, then scale it down by 1000. make sure uniform scaling is checked. What software was the STL created in?

I’m be been thinking about this. I’m assuming the corners are actually walls being printed as single extrusion. Meaning the nozzle is moving though the 90deg while extruding with no stop. I noticed that infill just prints straight lines overlapping at the intersection. I wonder if a grid infill with the right wall density would get you better 90s. Not sure the other properties would suffice, but perpendicular lines meet at perfect 90s.

Look @Slashee_the_Cow!!! I didn't say it!

Attempting to repair a sweing tool for a neighbor. I feel this is a bad idea as all the ladies in her group are sitting there with "out of distribution" tools in various states of disrepair... This may be creality quality issues, but what I ran into was that a 0.4 snoz could not reduce the flow enough to prevent closing the gap. A 0.2 managed my 0.15 gap just fine. That said I am relying on "slashee speeds" of "dear god, I could carve this from stone faster!!!" to keep things straight and stuck together. I also had to make sure fans were cranked to for PETG to cool fast enough at the corners to avoid pulling/smudging. See, I've been listening and learnging. Your pontification into the dark recesses of issues pay off! At least for me 🙂

I may be silly, but a small nozzel will let you do thin lines. Thin lines allow thin gaps. The big things in my experience will be slowing way down and running cool/cooling so that the corners stay tight and don't merge. I know @Slashee_the_Cow, what the heck am I doing using small nozzels? i don't know, but I don't like it. I do NOT like it!

I notice you mention blender... I use freecad. i don't get any notifications unless my models are completely unusable (which is more common than I care to admit). maybe the problem isn't in Cura?

@Slashee_the_Cow, the reason I recommended octo is that @chriska416 mentioned the pi in the original post. I assumed (dangerous) octo was involved but it is not mentioned explicitly. my concern with using startup is that it’s not a printer specific embed that might be lost due to an upgrade or system clean. Same is true on pi/octo but most folks are a bit better about backing up pi/octo. Also, you can also in any gcode that is known to work from any date/config without needing to reslice. so yes, sledgehammer, but a very useful one. Less of a sledgehammer if octo is already in the pipeline.

Look into using octoprint to intercept the bed heat ups and replace with the right macro. There’s a section in the octo configuration screen for just this purpose. a couple hints. * read up on storing a variable for the temp so you can put in logic to differentiate between raising and lowering temps. * simpler is better for the above… I’d lower just drop it. * alternatively play with fire and create a hardware solution that switches between ups sourced power and direct line power for bed heating. I like fires. You should probably not do that…

@Slashee_the_Cow, G28 X Y then M114 will tell you the neg limits of XY (limit switch). My e3 has the same mechanical stops to prevent self disassembly. I was hoping for a limit switch style “far enough” set up to protect components. Probably need big dollar printers for that. Or I’ll build them into one. I really enjoy how you jump into all the details. When I grow up I hope to be that passionate about things.

@Slashee_the_Cow, in octo, home x and y. Read the actual position of the head. On the e3s1p it’s -12,-12. 15 (Z wasn’t homed). The edge of the pei plate is right about -8. I can print down the edge fairly easily. Cura sees hardware 0 as 0 still leaving 16mm of plate unused. Cura took another 10mm off that. The e3s1p will gladly grand the belts past the upper and lower limits. You you have stepper shutoff switches?

On my e3s1p the default bed is 5mm shy of full all the way around. This x-3 may be intending to use that buffer to prime/purge while allowing full use of the configured space for printing? Problem is I’m smart enough to resize my bed to get all my space back so… that would be bad. only other thing I could imagine is if they set machine coordinates to offset 0 to the max size of the print. But I don’t see that. Or any transfer to an alternative coordinate workspace. Me thinks thou protest to much on the G0/G1 fiasco. While technically accurate the only real value is if you are setting travel speeds as a universal in G0 then not resetting speed with every move. Since cura insists on setting speed in every motion… I’m not sure it hurts anything other than our desire for adherence to the rules. All said, I agree. Cura output should FOLLOW THE RULES!

That shouldn't be a "cura" thing as G29 is marlin controlled. I do see the G28 preceding the G29. Is the G28 executing? Meaning are you seeing the machine home all the axis properly? It sounds like marlin is losing 0 on X. I have this problem on my ender as well. I have G28 as the first line in my start up code just to get 0,0,0 set before ANY other code is executed. After that I think G28 gets called a few more times, which is a pain, but it does seem to stop the "where am I" confusion I was seeing with creality's not so good version of marling on the e3s1p.

Hey there @wardd13. I do this but not with the ender plugged into the mac. I use a cheap system (pi or other small brick) that will run linux and Octoprint. Octoprint connects to the printer via USB on the brick, and Cura has a nifyu plugin that can talk directly to Octoprint.