
jaysenodell
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jaysenodell last won the day on March 10 2024
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There is another concept to alternate Z height. Odd layers and odd lines are at layer height. Even are at 1/2. Outer wall printed every 1/2 and outer walls first. The idea is that you are over lapping in both the vertical and horizontal. The goal was to add density and strength to lower end filament (non-filled). I haven’t played with it but the folks that have seems to say that the overlapping does add significant strength.
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This is how I understand it in marlin land (the method is the same but specific to marlin). I'm sure someone much smarter than me will find an issue in this but... here goes. They hardcode "we designed the booger shooter to be (Q,R,S)mm from probe trigger to noz". Then you adjust the Z specific value (S) with the Z offset. They set the designed value in the firmware at build time (build variable for Z offset from probe is Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER). I'm not going to bother looking, but on my E3S1P I recall it being 15mm or so. I now run a calibrated Z offset at -3.67 which means the end of my noz is 11.33mm from the "zero point" of my ABL. So basically when you G28 Z, the gantry just moves until ABL tiggers, the firmware applies the hardcoded - calibrated z offest (Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - -3.67) then calls that "Z=0" (kind of like G92 Z0 but globally). This is basically the floor of the bounding box of the build volume. ABL maps are overlaid on the floor (including negative values) to allow for "creality quality" build plates. So if you have a fancy "capacitive" or preassure sensor, Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER should be == 0 since the end of the noz is the designed offset. With these you shouldn't need to set Z offset with paper, just ... set it to 0.D where D is the gap you want. This means that your Z offeset should be a positive number. That's the theory anyway. From what I've seen though, I think manufactures are still setting Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER to something to make it familiar. You can change the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER with M851 on some printers but you really shouldn't unless you know what you are doing. And for the most part you don't need to.
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So... I'm not greg, and I'm also a lot dumber than greg. in the marketplace there is a "meterial settings" plugin. It lets you change any setting for materials. I find it indespensible because I'm stupid. Let me clarify that. I'm using big nozzle (and small) and runing fast. And because small variations seem to get larger when you start playing the big/fast game, I found that having a base line for "manufacturer-material-color-noz" was critial. I still have to tweak it, but I don't have to guess if my starting point is 200, 190, 220, or 214 with this creality PLA blue on a 0.2mm noz. (214btw). I printed the bird feeder at 198 based on the file name (thank you "gcode file name format plus" plugin that tells me that the code is for crealty blue and 02mm on the e3s1p bed at 60, no 198). The 1.0mm vrs prints at 223/65. So you can do it. But my materials list is a mess. So it my octoprint file store. There is no easy button.
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I don't have a sample model for this yet but I'll create one I can provide in a few minutes. I've been playing with adaptive layers over gcode splicing because I'd rather let the tool do the work 🙂 I've hit a spot that I think I'm missing some base understanding of how this feature is supposed to work. Some facts to start us off. I have an oval/cone with holes and surface features (some of which may be threads) 1.0 noz PLA and PETG Ender 3 S1 Pro (I may have "fixed" the firmware on my own because those idiots left a bug in it otherwise stock) I need to confirm that I have the following correct. Setting layer height controls As I see it, the "max variation" setting sets the min and max layer as "Layer Height" ± "Max Variation". Based on this, if my poor ender can only print a 0.68 max layer before the sprite can't keep up, I need to make sure "Layer Height" + "Max Variation" < 0.68mm. I could use something like 0.5 Layer height with 0.18 variation for a range of 0.32-0.68. The "Layer Variation Step size" is used to create a type of gradient between layers. Cura reads ahead to forulate an "ideal layer height" candiate and then start stepping at ± "step size" to get to the ideal height. A smaller step size will result in smoother transition but longer slice/print times as more layers are needed. Layer change trigger I think the only trigger is topograhy size. If Cura sees an "overhang" of this value it starts looking to reduce layers to smooth the edge. This is great for things like vertical threads and holes as it will smooth the surface. This is only effective when the horizontal difference between to layers is counted. VERTICAL difference is not counted (0.25mm in one layer vs 0.25mm over 5 layers in a fillet). There is not prevision to manage an averadged slope at this time. There are no speed adjustments If you need speed alterations based on layer thickness (my poor poor ender 3) then you need to buy a better extruder or just slow the whole thing down to slowest speed for the thickest/most detailed layer. Thanks. Edit: I've attached an STL that uses features similar to what I'm printing. The areas that I think is correct, even thought I don't want it to be correct, is the cone. Ideally it would be full layer. My adaptive layer settings: - Height 0.5 - Max Variation 0.3 - Step 0.04 - Topo 0.25 Sample.stl
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Threads not properly sliced (object not in the shape perimeter)
jaysenodell replied to giostark's topic in UltiMaker Cura
I print threads with a 1.0m noz. you cant get "round" vertical planes when you are printing horizontal layers. You will have layer lines that create mexican pyrimd steps (with bulges) where each step is a layer height tall and a nozzel width wide in a corner. This is why I print al my threads vertically. When I can't, I alter my design or plate arangement to help. In your case I would roated the model 45° to get both threads "of equal quality" which will be better than your horizontal but slightly worse on your vertical. No idea what that will do to your internals. Second option... make the horizontal a sparate component, print it verticaly then attach it. I tend to not print preassurized components (this looks like a difusion valve of some sort) so your intenals may not be alterable. I find internal "ugly threads" are much nicer to seal than external. So printing a female hoizontal is perferable to a male. Then thread a male section in to allow hoses to connect. Just my experience. good luck. -
Printing a second object on a previously printed object.
jaysenodell replied to jaysenodell's topic in Improve your 3D prints
Looks like I'm SOL on this... You can't alter layer height by object let alone cutting mesh. Back to the drawing board. -
Printing a second object on a previously printed object.
jaysenodell replied to jaysenodell's topic in Improve your 3D prints
Well… I’ve decided this isn’t worth the effort as I originally planned it. I’ve been playing around with the design and altering print settings for the 1.0 to get things “betterer”. So now I’m thinking * Use an STL that allows for horizontal segmentation by quality settings. * Create settings for the segments as appropriate. Speed, fine detail, structural rigidity. So far I have figured out that blocker as cutting mesh lets me override individual settings. Is there a way to pull full “profiles” without having to track each setting? Lastly, has anyone tried using horizontal blockers to make face features use a “half height” layer to allow for better detail? Think an embossed logo or holes that greatly benefit from lower layer heights. -
All the problems I’ve had have been self inflicted. Stripped the heater block. Poked the PEI plate. Popped a LED fuse (soldered on board) by attempting to power “not the LED”. Can’t keep the aluminum plate flat (can’t believe I’m contemplating a glass plate). Stupid plate adjusters get hit when I’m reaching for things. The few “complaints” that I have are about standard design of this class printer, not the quality of this build. If there is a legit concern it is with the amount of sheet metal vs extrusion used. I’ll likely buy another one or three to use as work horses for initial product run.
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I’ll pass. It took me a long time to get PLA and PETg dialed in. I have no interest in driving myself to the brink of insanity. Stock Ender 3 S1 Pro (no klipper, just octo). Arc-welder reduced the Gcode about 30-60%. I did test the creality marlin implementation to validate it works with G2/G3 arcs. Its just the perfect alignment between intentional product design, the right slicing options, and firmware that, in-spite of creality’s reputation, actually does one advanced feature properly. I figure I’m one of the few people thinking “a few more of these creality printers might be a good idea…”
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Odd… I find that cura gives a time of X, octo says X*0.95 and then the stopwatch (octo print time) is about X*0.8 (most of the time). This is for an Ender 3 S1 Pro using stock cura definitions, octo standard setting and nothing “tuned” on the printer controls (speed, etc). I have added arc-welder on cura, octolapse on octoprint, moved octoprint off a pi and onto a full atom cpu. I do tend to “ignore” slashers excellent advice of “slow print > bad print” as I get into things allowing me to push the cura general speed up to 150mm/s (sometimes 200mm/s). It is at these fast fast speeds that I see the largest differences. At speeds under 40mm/s I don’t see much difference at all (a couple seconds). Also of note I’m running prints that are 12-28hr at those fast fast speeds. These prints are largely ovals so it maybe arc-welder that makes my world “betterer”.
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@CBX_Micha, what printer/firmware are you using to get that information? I’m intrigued by the data available there.
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I managed to burn myself while unpacking my 3d print and before I ever turned it on… burning the shipping material. That’s when I knew this was going to be fun.
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That looks great! What was the toolchain you used for that?
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Yep. But eventually it will need a new maintainer.
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The tools in the toolchain is less important than the function. 1. Reduce noise (increase smoothness of grayscale) 2. Adjust contrast. 3. Edit out hotspots (I airbrush g at over bright white). 4. White balance adjust to increase B/W variability. 5. Convert greyscale 6. Export as PNG if I can figure out how to get #3 into an imagick script, I’d have this nearly automated at this point. All that said, have you tried just importing the images unedited? You may be happy with the result.