Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


jaysenodell last won the day on March 10

jaysenodell had the most liked content!

Personal Information

  • 3D printer
    Other 3D printer
  • Industry

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

jaysenodell's Achievements



  1. This may be specific to my brand of stupid, but printing slower "fixed" it for me. That said, I would expect that points to either a flow rate increase, a temp increase or other, more diffictult to make exact, set of changed to make "print faster" better-er. I just plan more time for printing as everything seems to work really well with slower printing.
  2. Also you remove all your meshes with that M502 then store "factory settings" to EEPROM which undoes your leveling. I think you need to start of with just a simple UBL test. M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} G28 ; do all the axes at once, there's no point in separating them once the bed is heated. ;Run your UBL G29 P1 G29 P2 G29 P3 G29 P4 G29 S0 M500 ; save the mesh to eeprom PERM so you have it post power cycle G29 L0 ; technically this shouldn't be needed but... M420 S1 ; turn on UBL G26 ; test print ; STOP HERE The more I look through your initial post it looks like you are turning ubl on then immediately off and leaving it off and a pile of seemingly cotradictory thing. Just start simple like the above and see if that doesn't get you a decent test pattern.
  3. If this is a marlin based system, that M501 isn't loading the mesh, it is reloading "all" EEPROM. That isn't necessarily loading the mesh you saved in S0... especially if your system is currently set to load the mesh in S3 at start. I think what you want is G29 S0; G29 L0;
  4. So you guys are saying that it's not normal to have 538hr of print time on a printer I took out of the box Dec 12, 2023?
  5. I'm guseeing this is a programming class and we are helping the poster complete an assignment. Otherwise I assume OP would already have stumbled on one of the many options for timelapse control.
  6. Also, I tend to go from 5 back to 3 a number of times based on cura's preview mode showing me things that "aren't right" about my configuration settings. Some of this is "I know my printer will do that wrong with this filament" and some of it is "that was supposed ot be flipped the other way". And if I'm designing my own objects (which I do) then I wind back at step 1 in my CAD program fixing my STL.
  7. so take a step back... you're asking about "how to I make something on my printer?" or "what is the workflow to successfully print an object?" The over simplification is: Find STL (or cura compatible format) for the thing you want to print. Load the "thing" file into cura. Ensure settings are correct for the filament you intend to use. Slice the object (this creates the G Code for the printer) Send G Code to printer Wait for print to complete. Within that simple workflow items 1, 3, 5, and maybe 6 are all more wokflows as well as things such as printer setup and maintenance. There are many videos on youtube to help you with all this.
  8. @GregValiant do you have a repo somewhere?
  9. You all use gloves? I’ve just been keeping a bucket of ice and aloe next to the printer for relief post maintenance. I’m clearly behind the curve on smarts in this group. That said, I have been grabbing hot metal bare handed for a few years (mostly because I’m stupid). I guess I’m used to it.
  10. I think I'm a user of @GregValiant script. I would suggest using it. It really does make pulling the interface out of tight areas easy. Key notes * You need incompatable types for the last layer. * You need to know which layer is last (I still monkey that up on occasion * You need to get the noz purge right post change or you might get "some stick" Other than that it works as advertised.
  11. Sorry to off track a bit but I’m printing ABS for cnc fixtures. The milling generates a lot of heat the printed part needs to deal with. ABS is the norm (petg dissolves quickly). What other materials should be considered? Others on the cnc side say it’s not worth the hassle/$$$ for anything other than abs…
  12. Yeah... it doesn't let you do that and b!tches about head colission as the model boundries overlap. Seems like a perfect use of one at a time though.
  13. Can I ask about an alternate plan that I might try and test but I'm not sure it's worth testing? why not split the 'two tower' model into three... the base, tower A, and tower B. assemble on the plate and then use "print one at a time in order"? the key would be ordering as base, A then B where A is foward of B with adequate space for print head. Or does print in order only work for plate separated STL? Crap... now I'm jsut going to try it.
  14. I have a dumb idea... and it assumes you use. stndard layer height or known layer height in your gcode... Load the gcode, and count the number of layers (should be easy to see in preview). Then load the STL, use the same layer height, and slice it. Subtract the number of layers from GCode and you should be really dang close. You'll need to account for the difference in top and bottom layer heights that are less (or more) that standard layers, but that shoudn't be more than a layer or two.
  15. I know they say glass is a step backwards, but I'm about to go there just to get the needed "flat means flat". All the systems that other folks are using to make fixtures seem to always end in glass plates with ABS or poly-glass/carbon (cnc gets hot and tends to care about 0.000X at times). At some point I may just need a better printer.
  • Create New...