Dead3ye

It's funny you put this because when writing the line "Slashees my guy" I literally deleted and wrote it over a couple times arguing this could be a slashee guy or a slashee gal. I retract. And thanks again, you've been so much help.

I recently added a new version of Marlin firmware to my Ender 5 and that also may have made it go screwy. There are a lot of other guys with my issue who have done the same thing and no matter the amount of bed leveling the nozzle will scrape on the initial line set and the bed comes out slightly tilted. What I really need help with is the step by step (in Lamens preferably as to avoid confusion and also, I may be slightly Lamen as far as software problems) to resetting BR Touch, flashing drive, converting .HEX to .BIN (or a decent app that works) and installing factory Marlin via SD card. I already have the go ahead to send it back to Creality but I've learned a great deal from this machine and would really like to see if firmware could potentially be creating this headache or a future one with my new machine. I'm not trying to be a "Plug and Play" 3D artist, I'd really like to know the Ins and well as the Outs and so far, Slashee has been my guy.

I have an Ender 5 Plus and I went to start my print today and after tuning the bed per both Creality method and online instructions and the hotend tip scratched against the bed plate. I've leveled my bed plenty of times and have levels, .10mm tool and others(without branching into digital levels and calibrating tools) and printed multiple things up to this point no problem. I recently installed the Spider V3 pro hotend, replaced bed springs with silicone buffers recommended off amazon and that's literally all I've done as far as upgrading. is there some sort of manual calibration or software you're supposed to install into Cura or whatever slicer you're using after installation of a new hotend?

This is what ended up doing to get my specs. Turns out I solely sleep flat on my back because my head is flat in the back lol

My powers on shrinking are limited to cold water but I decided on splitting the helmet top to bottom (face side and back of the skull) and set the inside of the helmet to the specs of my head. I'm just going to magnet it (after laughing about how I'd just glue it and forever live in it) and see if it pulls off or if it could use any altering. I appreciate the advice.

It's a one-piece helmet RED HOOD from Batman. It's smaller at the initial opening than when your head actually gets in there. My thoughts were to make the opening fit my dimensions which would leave more room inside the shell to pad and wire and light and so forth. But if there's a rule of thumb when it comes to helmet making, I'd like to know.

When sizing a helmet for a person's head, is the measurement taken from the largest part of inside the helmet's diameter (like just above where your ears would sit when the helmet is on) or is it measured at the largest diameter of the head opening?

Thanks guys. i appreciate you.

I was wondering if there was a setting to see the current layer that your project is printing

That's the answer I had anticipated. It's not a big issue, it was more to see if I could print things with overhangs more quickly after they've passed over the area of overhang and were at a more stable point of printing. I appreciate the response.

Is there a way that I can increase the print speed of a project that I've already began printing or if I change print speed through the settings and reslice will it cancel or mess up my currently printing project? I am working with Ender 5 Plus if that makes any difference.