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I've printed many rolls of ABS parts for my company's products (both prototypes and beta customer deliveries) and I've used a torque wrench to perform empirical destructive testing on many parts. In my testing, the "grain" strength (layer bonding) always improved with higher nozzle temperatures in all the brands and colors of ABS I've tested. I'm comfortable in saying that no ABS will exhibit a reduction in strength up to the 260 C limit of a stock UM, in combination with any reasonable and practical print settings. With ABS in particular, the Achilles heal of FFF/FDM is the weaker layer bond strength.
On the other hand, the problem with 260 C is it's hot enough to increase the probability of hot end jams, due to "heat creep" to risky levels. (Perhaps not Ultimachine black so much, which requires the most heat of any ABS I've printed, but many others can be prone to jams at 260 C.) Given that most new users aren't even aware of this failure mode, I think I'll take a swag at a recommendation for 245 C--or maybe 250 C at the very most. I think 245 C is pretty well aligned with your choice of 220 C for PLA, in terms of maximizing the chances of a hassle-free and successful 3-D printing experience for a new or inexperienced user. Ultimachine black prints okay at 245 but a bit of layer strength will typically be sacrificed at 245 C vs. 260 C. I think it's a good trade-off for quickprint mode users. I often print many other brands and colors of ABS at 245--particularly the lighter colors. Of course print speed affects optimum nozzle temperature too but, like the Cura PLA settings, I'm trying to suggest one temperature for all three quality modes.
If Joergen chimes-in with an opinion, I recommend weighing it into your decision to change the default Cura quickprint value too. He probably has as much experience printing ABS as anyone!
(Back after 2 weeks vacation)
I have little experience with ABS, what would be a better ABS temperature?
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I've printed many rolls of ABS parts for my company's products (both prototypes and beta customer deliveries) and I've used a torque wrench to perform empirical destructive testing on many parts. In my testing, the "grain" strength (layer bonding) always improved with higher nozzle temperatures in all the brands and colors of ABS I've tested. I'm comfortable in saying that no ABS will exhibit a reduction in strength up to the 260 C limit of a stock UM, in combination with any reasonable and practical print settings. With ABS in particular, the Achilles heal of FFF/FDM is the weaker layer bond strength.
On the other hand, the problem with 260 C is it's hot enough to increase the probability of hot end jams, due to "heat creep" to risky levels. (Perhaps not Ultimachine black so much, which requires the most heat of any ABS I've printed, but many others can be prone to jams at 260 C.) Given that most new users aren't even aware of this failure mode, I think I'll take a swag at a recommendation for 245 C--or maybe 250 C at the very most. I think 245 C is pretty well aligned with your choice of 220 C for PLA, in terms of maximizing the chances of a hassle-free and successful 3-D printing experience for a new or inexperienced user. Ultimachine black prints okay at 245 but a bit of layer strength will typically be sacrificed at 245 C vs. 260 C. I think it's a good trade-off for quickprint mode users. I often print many other brands and colors of ABS at 245--particularly the lighter colors. Of course print speed affects optimum nozzle temperature too but, like the Cura PLA settings, I'm trying to suggest one temperature for all three quality modes.
If Joergen chimes-in with an opinion, I recommend weighing it into your decision to change the default Cura quickprint value too. He probably has as much experience printing ABS as anyone!
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