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Posted · Change Z e-steps on UM3 in the firmware

Hi Guys

I tried ind the "Third party products & modifications" section, but seems more right here in the firmware section.

 

I bought a ballscrew for my UM3, instead of the supplied leadscrew.
The ballscrew has a much lower pitch, and i need to change the e-steps for the Z axis. 

Could any of you wise guys tell me how to do this? Maybe a little guide for dummies, or a link to a simular previus post 🙂

I tried googling for several hours, but with no luck 😞

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    • 3 weeks later...
    Posted · Change Z e-steps on UM3 in the firmware

    The UM3 was designed very flexible and has most of these values stored in an internal configuration file. It requires you to set the printer in Developer mode and then remotely log in to the Linux prompt to modify the file: /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json 

    The process is very similar to changing the E steps for people who upgraded the extruders. I'm lazy and redirect you to the Bondtech manual which explains this for dummies: https://support.bondtech.se/Guide/01. DDG For Ultimaker 2 and 3/16.html

    See page 8 and further.

     

    Instead of modifying the 'e' value, you, of course, will have to modify the 'z' value.

    Note that the Bondtech manual is old, the screenshots have the 'X', 'Y', 'Z' and 'E' parameters in capitals, with later firmware versions changed those to lower case letters.

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    • 6 months later...
    Posted (edited) · Change Z e-steps on UM3 in the firmware

    I'm considering buying a Bondtech DDG so I can print abrasive filament with my Solex Everlast Ruby printcore nozzles on my two UM 3 printers. I am happy with the UM 3 filament feeders ("extruders") otherwise and I don't have a need to for dual abrasive filament extrusion, though I might print non-abrasive support with an abrasive filament on occasion.

     

    Is is possible to have two different e-step values--one value for feeder #1 and the other for feeder #2? That would save me half the cost of the full conversion? It appears this would require building a custom version of UM 3 Marlin. I'm very familiar with building Marlin for my UMO but I'm unfamiliar with the UM 3 / Marlin 2.

     

    Plan "B" is to machine a knurled feeder wheel out of a heat-treatable steel or perhaps case hardening the original knurled wheels might be possible. I still have a nearly full can of the discontinued cyanide Kaseknit, the best case hardening treatment ever!

     

    Thanks!

    Edited by calinb
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    • 1 month later...
    Posted (edited) · Change Z e-steps on UM3 in the firmware

    I like your idea, but that's not how the UM3 was designed. Marlin in the UM3 shares a lot of code with the UM2, but a lot of code was moved to a more powerful processor (mostly the display, usb reader and networking code). This makes Marlin in the UM3 smaller than in the UM2. 

     

    The UM2 only had one nozzle, and the UM3 Marlin also! The support for the second nozzle, and switching code, is all in the python code for the other processor.


    The configuration file mentioned earlier in this thread supports only one configuration for the e-steps. This setting is sent to Marlin at the printer startup, and then never changed.

     

    How good are you at modifying python code?

    When you dare to try, then you could have a look at the  file /usr/share/griffin/griffin/printer/procedures/print/switchActiveHotendStep.py

    The e-steps can be changed by calling the function 

    self.setPropertyValue("steps_per_mm_e", <your value>)

    You'll have to insert this function two times, for switching to either nozzle.

    Edited by CarloK2
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