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  1. Ah, sorry I put the info in the image description, forgot to do so in the post. It was printed at 0.1 layers, sanded lightly and then polished. Didn't take too much time. The rounding happened while sanding, it thought it would give a more realistic metal look.
  2. My first print with bronzeFill. It's just a small ring I designed for my girlfriend's upcoming fashion show, but boy that filament is awesome. There's absolutely no way you could tell it's printed.
  3. For adding detail to a model (and I use "detail" on purpose since texture means color data in 3d modelling language), you have 4 options. A.) Physically model the details, either from a NURBS surface or subdivision surface, depending on the software and workflow used. B.) Use a black&white texture for displacement mapping, where polygons on the object get displaced according to the information in the texture. C.) Scatter objects around the base mesh (like the C4D example above) and subsequently use boolean operations to attach them together. D.) Use a "sculpting" program, which is in
  4. That should work, I have no clue if software endstops are turned on in the default firmware though, somebody might know more about it, I don't use the firmware from Cura. A simple way to try is to start the printer and home it, then move slowly towards the end to see if it will stop with the endstops removed. If it does, you're good. If it doesn't it's an easy fix.
  5. Funny, it was up there for a moment, I saw it, and now it's gone with a 404 error. ?!? As for the endstops, that's not about Cura per se, but about the firmware. If the travel length is set up right in the firmware, it should work as normal.
  6. Haha, glad to hear that, that was the purpose! Do add the print on the YM page if you don't mind, so people know it works. I don't have a decent pic of this model, I use a previous iteration on my printer which is not as pretty as this one. (and I must say it does look really nice on your printer!)
  7. I removed the max limit switches ages ago. I constantly experiment with printhead designs and therefore my print volume, so the max switches would have to also be moved all the time - much easier to just do it in firmware.
  8. For me the back/left seems a more logical place, I doesn't look as nice having it in front, and on the back/right there's the extruder so that seemed the way to go.
  9. I was afraid that Nick's design was a bit flexible so I opted to make my own https://www.youmagine.com/designs/motor-corner-alternative instead. It's a PITA to bolt the motors, but you only have to do it once. Works for me, printed with 25% infill and no flex in it whatsoever.
  10. I use thin plates of material, twice the nozzle radius, so in our case 0.8mm, which have a wider base so they adhere to the platform better. To really understand how they affect various prints it's best to do some trial objects and see for yourself. I rely heavily on bridging while doing this, so you must see how your printer performs to get optimal results. Here's a simple example of my supports: This method does have limitations, primarily if you're focused on having pretty downskins. But then again, other methods don't produce pretty downskins either, do they?
  11. Personally, I think the simplest solution by far for all people who design their models themselves, which you obviously do, is to model your own break away support in the model itself. That way you have perfect control over everything and it literally takes a few minutes of your time (depending on what app you use for modeling obviously).
  12. The absolute best way of making a D-shaped spline at home is with an oscillating multi-tool. Like http://www.boschmultix.com/mx25e.html. You clamp the motor shaft in a bench vise, in such a way that the shaft is parallel with the clamps but a part of it protrudes upwards. With a digital caliper measure how much it protrudes at the start and end, and adjust until it is parallel. Then you take your multi tool, put the cutting bit parallel to the clamps, and start cutting slowly from the end of the shaft. You get a perfectly flat and very accurate D shape this way. And I would recommend bu
  13. +1 on that. I usually change more than one setting between prints, and the interface stutters a lot then, especially with hi-poly models. IMHO, the slicing is so fast now that it really doesn't benefit from working in the background.
  14. @snowygrouch: I'm finishing up the instructions and description for my version of the direct drive. Since yours isn't available on thingiverse do you think it would be okay to have a link to your site there so people can easily have a look at the printed version too? Cheers, chopmeister
  15. Yikes, you are absolutely right!!! I'm sorry but it really wasn't intentional. I was just super-excited about how cool it looked and snapped a pic an uploaded it without much thinking. (In my defense I'd been working for 20 hours straight at that moment so I wasn't really capable of thinking at all). In the more elaborate description and instructions I am currently preparing, you are of course mentioned in several places and your design as the main inspiration for my own. But that doesn't of course negate the fact that I did what you said. I will update this description accordingly too, just t
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