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coofercat

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  1. I've been printing the prusa visor designs too - the MK3-2 version uses 60% less plastic, and prints in much less time. It doesn't stack though, so for stacks you're back to using the slightly bigger design (which has been updated with little posts between visors which just snap off, rather than the older chimneys). One problem I have on my UMO is stringing - just strings across the curve of the face shield. I can't see any head movements that account for it (watching the "preview" in cura, I can't see the head ever make a short-cut across the band, and I don't think there's any re
  2. Finally mounted the QR by four hard drive silencers I had kicking about - the extruder now makes almost no noise (certainly not compared to the rest of the printer). The QR I bought was labelled as "Ultimaker 2", so doesn't have a way to fit to the UMO's sort of drop-in slot design. I drilled 2 holes and used two of the slot holes to mount the extruder. One gotcha I had was that in the initial install, the extruder seemed to put electrical noise onto the temperature sensor. I tried everything - separating wires, twisting wires, messing with the fan, fiddling with bits and pieces, y
  3. Not sure about "best", but I decided to go in hard and bought a Bondtech QR (which is no where near the cheapest either!). It's currently mounted by two cable ties, but so far seems to be working very nicely. Calibration was unexpected - I thought I'd just be able to use the datasheet quoted esteps, but seems that was too low (possibly because I have silentstep stepper drivers?).
  4. I'm leaning towards just buying something in - what I really want is a physical button to extrude, which when you let go stops extruding (and the same for retract, move x/y/z etc). I don't really need a display - I mostly use Octoprint for that. But you're right, some of the cheap controllers are about £10, although without a case, so I'd have to print one for it.
  5. I'm wondering if I could make my own Ulticontroller or similar? There are a couple of connections to the electronics, and then of course the firmware would need to know about my creation, but maybe I could make it Ulticontroller or Reprap Discount Controller (or other) compatible...? I'm looking at maybe making a cut-down sort of ulticontroller - the aim being to just have head movement and extruder controls (I don't need the SD card stuff). I could just go for a super-cheap controller and use that (although I'm not sure about how great any of them really are for this stuff)?
  6. Looks a lot like this: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bertho-boman (which has been on my printer for many years, and is very good!)
  7. Not so sure about the map, but there are a bunch of folks in the UK making visors for the NHS: https://github.com/seanmtracey/PPE-Visor-Fabrication-Instructions (if you're in the UK and have spare printer-time, can you help them out? They also need laser cut acetate and elastic, if you happen to have either of those to hand too)
  8. I have an original, UMO (not the plus) - and the gnurled wheel is worn and so not very gnurled and not gripping the filament any longer. Getting a replacement is now expensive and slow (best I've found is something like 15 euro, international). I'm wondering if I should instead upgrade the whole extruder to some other model? I see lots of people have done things along these lines, but I'm unclear which is the "best", or what the implications are. Just to cover this off, I'm sure any replacement won't use the same mounting, and I'm fine with having to make some sort of c
  9. You make a good point - "security of supply" is probably as important as anything else. Parts and information about the early UMOs are getting harder and harder to google.
  10. That looks like the sort of thing I'd prefer - still not cheap, but none of them seem to be. Thanks!
  11. I've got one of the early Ultimaker Originals (not plus). I have my suspicions that the temperature sensor may have room for improvement (most obviously, even set at 270C, it doesn't seem to melt ABS terribly well, and a probe held onto the block reads 250C). My question is... what should I look to replace it with? I could buy another exactly the same from the resellers, but they're expensive: https://3dgbire.com/collections/spare-parts/products/thermocouple-sensor?variant=1079466129 (and maybe no better than what I already have?). However, I'm happy to fiddle with firmware and wha
  12. I designed the feet around some RC model shock absorbers (which are adjustable to take account of the extra weight at the back of the printer). I'm going to upload to youmagine, but it seems to only accept if there's a photo, and my last attempt didn't seem to want to upload photos properly. I've just attached a few files here. The shocks I used seem to have gone, but were these: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GPSL8HM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've finally got the feet onto Youmagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/spring-loaded-so
  13. Pictures - great idea: https://www.flickr.com/photos/14363379@N04/albums/72157711272133246/with/48874135048/ (apologies for my rather hurried and slap-dash camera work!)
  14. It's been a while, but I think I'm now at a point where I can press "print" and (more or less), the printer will just do it. The work is never done, and I'm sure some more tweaks would be nice, but anything further is polish, rather than 'core' requirement. I think my complete list of changes to the as-delivered original-UMO are: - "Owen clamp" on the bowden - Pop Stop on the bowden - Extruder multi-clip on the bowden - "Bertho" extruder clip - New fan shroud - Adjustable z-stop - Heated bed kit + borosilicate glass - Spring loaded fee
  15. Just to say, my TMC2130s arrived, so I hurriedly tried to get them to work. They're not quite a 'drop in replacement' for the UMO's own drivers, although they're quite easy to get going if you want a bit of a project. The bulk of the work of getting the electronics sorted is nicely documented here: The TMCs have a larger heatsink and are a little bit thicker than the originals, so they don't fit under the wooden electronics cover. To resolve this and complete the project, I did the following: - Remove the top piece of the wooden electronics cover, whatever fan you have
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