codemaven

I might just give Marlin a try and see how it goes, but if it doesn't work well then I'll just go with Grbl don't think it would be difficult to get Grbl instead. I should not be hard to get Grbl to work with CoreXY. I've read somewhere else that someone did it with a simple change to one file but they did not document the specific change or release the updated code.

CoreXY is supported in Marlin now? I've been slowly working on building a CoreXY based gantry for a while now... My main intent is to make a simple isolation routing PCB mill though rather than a 3d Printer. However the idea is to make the tool interchangeable with an extruder. I'm also planning to try out synchromesh cables instead of belts. However there is very little information available on synchromesh cables and they're unfortunately only available from one vendor who is located in the US. Cheers, Troy.

That's awesome Daid. I'm planning a Tantillus myself... And I want to put together a DLP STL resin printer (I expect my resin to arrive later this week). My STL printer will probably have a build volume equal to or greater than my Ultimaker, but there is a lot to be said for a portable printer. Like you, most of my prints would fit in your Titan's build volume. In my professional life I work as a software developer for a bank (a Dutch bank actually, but in London). I'd love to have a printer small enough to sit on my desk here at the office. The most attractive part about the Tantillus (for me anyway) is that it's case can be printed on my Ultimaker. For your design, I love how you've placed all of the motors inside the case. It's going to take some clever work to get your Z axis working, but I can think of a couple of possible arrangements. It's definitely doable. I think your extruder might be difficult to get to for filament changing, but we'll have to see how it goes. It's nice having it all self-contained anyway. I also like how you've used the Ultimaker style head but fully printed it. Have you thought about re-working the bowden to hot-end coupling at all to prevent the cold plug problems in the Ultimaker design? Look forward to seeing it completed! Cheers, Troy.

When I was looking for a white plastic Faberdashery was sold out of the 'Arctic White' and they didn't have Pearly White as an available colour yet... So I ordered some of that Architects stone instead and I love it. I find it to be a much more 'natural' white than the others. It's not really much of a stone colour... maybe white limestone like... but for me it's the perfect colour for a lot of white things as it's a clean, but dull white and looks similar to common polystyrene that is used in model kits. If you're a Star Trek fan (and who isn't?) I find it to be a nice match to the off-white colour of the original Enterprise as seen in the Original Series. Cheers, Troy.

yeah I've heard that the flexible PLA is difficult to print with.... But what are the problems exactly? I'd like to try. Not sure I want to but a whole 100m roll for something that may prove unusable... It would be nice if Faberdashery had it so I could buy just a couple of meters. Cheers, Troy.

Their transparent green looks rather nice. And I see they have flexible PLA in stock. I might get some of that to try... Cheers, Troy.

I am in exactly the same situation myself... I want a second printer to compliment the Ultimaker.... So I am thinking of the Tantillus. I have contributed to the Indiegogo campaign for it and plan to start printing the case soon.... After I finish printing parts for my PCB mill and after I try an experiment that I've been thinking about for a while - parametrically generated and printed home cinema /computer speakers. Cheers, Troy

Yes _please_. I would really like to see a Linux version of the Ultimaker Engine for Netfabb. Right now I am keeping an entire installation of Windows around just to run NetFabb... it's the only windows program I use.

I find that with the gold it mostly looks a dull orange colour... but when it catches the light just right on occasion it can look gold-ish. it looks good on my Star Trek communicator badge... I've never had any luck with anything less than High quality in NetFabb.... In fact I only ever use the Ultra High 0.08mm profile and 0.04mm profiles that I've created myself... I couldn't get prints to work properly at the 'standard' or 'low' quality profiles.... However, I found that the print time estimates between the ultra-high and standard are pretty close... the Ultra high profile prints at a high feed rate and produces amazing prints in the same amount of time as prints of much lower quality. My prints of Yoda only take about 7.5 hours. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/olrvENFmEX08Jtrm-efu0dMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink Cheers, Troy.

Good tip Daid. I love my Glowbug Yoda, but it doesn't flow for long.... However it's printed with very little infill... nearly hollow. I think I'll try it with a much more solid infill. Troy.

Hi Joergen, As of the latest version of NetFabb (4.9) which come out last month this feature is supposedly fixed. I did at one time find some settings that caused it to retract a while back, but i don't know what settings I had exactly at the time... I can't seem to find any that work at all now. Also, I believe the z-offset option is supposed to make the bed move down slightly on fast jumps and then return... I set this to 0.12 and it does indeed move down for fast jumps, but it doesn't return to what it was so the layers stop sticking after a fast jump with the z-offset on... any ideas on that? Thanks, Troy.

Hi, Has anyone managed to get retraction working on NetFabb 4.9? Can someone tell me what the approximate settings required are? I don't even know where to begin. I've tried everything from 10rpm to 400rpm in the retraction field on the material defs but haven not managed to make anything happen at all except at the high end - in which case instead of retracting it seems to push forward at high rate just before it does a fast jump causing a HUGE blob and string.... and usually stripping the filament. What are the other fields - travel RPM and push-on for? Are those related? Thanks, Troy.

I would suggest you try without Netfabb and see how you get on. As Daid said there are some very good free alternatives out there. I have not looked at his Cura yet, but it sounds very promising. For me, I started with just SF35 and was impressed with the results at the time... but they were still nowhere near as good as what people were getting with Netfabb. I couldn't get SF40 to work for me... but I don't really think I gave it enough of a chance.... I saw the great results that people were getting with Netfabb and decided to give it a go. I was impressed right away. My first print with it (without changing any settings) was at 0.08mm layer height and just blew me away.... I don't think Netfabb is any more configurable than Skeinforge - maybe even less so... but the defaults 'out of the box' seem to be better and the GUI is a lot nicer to work with. Those are the two points that it seems Daid is targeting to improve on the Free/Opensource front with his Cura project. I've done very little adjustment to Netfabb since I've been using it... Basically I've been lowering the layer height and temperature and have not at all touched the other configuration options and it's just worked well for me. I think I've been very lucky in that respect. I wasn't particularly careful in assembling my machine but it seems that I hit everything just right when assembling it. Your mileage may vary. My Gripes with Netfabb: No volumetric support built in (not sure how big of an issue this is... I think it would make it easier to configure). Still lots of bugs, releases are addressing them, but slowly. No Linux support (this is actually the biggest issue for me... I haven't been able to get it to run reasonably in a VM ) No demo to try-before-you-buy... I really, really wish they would release a Linux version... NetFabb is the only non-Linux app I use so I maintain a while separate PC just for it right now because I don't want to have to reboot my main PC just use Netfabb... €150 is a lot of money... too much in my opinion for what you get... But currently I think it's the best out of the box solution if you don't want to spend forever tweaking your settings. In my opinion, try Cura, try Slic3r, and see what you get. The default 'Ultra' profile in Netfabb is 0.08mm, which is a noticeable improvement even on 0.1mm. I've never seen anything less than 0.1mm from any other software. I'm glad I took the plunge for Netfabb and I love it... But €150 is a big premium to pay. cheers, Troy.

There's still quite a bit of stringing between the ears... but it takes me about 30 seconds with a Swiss army knife to clean it up. I don't think I noticed any difference in the amount of stringing when using different layer heights... Lowering the temperature did help a bit with stringing though. Cheers, Troy.

The images in my link are all done in Netfabb at 0.02mm layer height... They look very good in person. Those photos don't do them justice. They were just taken here at work with my camera's phone... At 0.02 layer height I cannot see individual layers at all without a very strong magnifier. When I say I made them myself people usually ask me if I cast them from a mould. Especially the Yodas. They really feel completely smooth to the touch. I've only had my machine since December and I've been getting these quality results for quite a while. I was lucky - I've done no calibration or anything to the machine... I just got NetFabb and slowly started reducing the layer height bit by bit as far as I dared go.. I've never had any issues except some extruder jams back in January. I'm printing at 175 degrees now. Reducing the temperature actually helped my jamming problem and improved my prints. Cheers, Troy.

Hmm.. I think I'm loosing my mind... Apparently my original long post wasn't lost, I just posted it in the wrong thread... It's over here: http://forum.ultimaker.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=572&p=3091#p3088 Troy

Oops, I posted this in the wrong topic! Was meant to be in the Favourite colours topic...

Ahh, looks like the long post I spent forever writing got lost... :( Anyway.... I'll quickly summarize.... My favourite colour is the Faberdashery Robot Silver... I've printed lots in it. It's only really silver in certain lighting - most of the time it's just grey... but I do find it to be a good all-round colour for many things. Glowbug yellow is cool. I too printed a Yoda in it! Bling-Bling gold mostly looks like a pale orange... but when the light hits it right it can look goldish and quite cool. My favourite thing that I've printed so far is a Star Trek TNG communicator (thing 14345) at 0.02mm layer height with the oval in Bling-Bling gold and the chevron in Robot Silver.... It looks just like the real thing. Crystal Clear extrudes perfectly clear in single strands, but when you start laying that down of course you don't get a homogeneous solid so the end result tends to be more of a translucent white. It's still pretty cool, but don't expect clear prints. the most recent thing I printed was a stand for my Galaxy Tab tablet that I designed myself and printed in Galaxy Blue... I'm not really that impressed with it. The blue is not transparent enough to really let the aluminium specks shine. I want to do a highly detailed USS Enterprise model one day in many pieces (glued together like a plastic model kit)... My intention is to use Galaxy Blue with LEDs inside for the strips on the engine nacelles. Here's some snaps of things I have on my desk at work. The Glowbug yellow Yoda (looks white in the direct sunlight on my desk), the Galaxy Blue tablet stand, and my Star Trek Communicator. https://picasaweb.google.com/102544598518008997408/3dPrints?authuser=0&feat=directlink Cheers, Troy

My favourite colour is the Robot Silver from Faberdashery. I've printed lots of things with it. I really should setup a gallery page too.... Or upload some pictures of my prints to Thingiverse. I too have a glow in the dark Yoda on top of my desk here at work... The force is strong with that one. I also quite like the bling-bling gold actually.... In some lighting it looks like a dull orange colour, but when the light hits it right it can actually look like gold. One of my favourite prints so far is the Start Trek TNG communicator badge (thing 14345). I used NetFabb to slice it into two parts and printed the bottom oval part in Gold and the chevron in Robot Silver and glued them together. They were done at 0.02mm layer height. In the right light it looks just like the real thing. I've printed a few things with Crystal Clear... Don't expect the results to look clear. I usually use it for things where the colour isn't important - like some transformer coil forms that I recently printed. When it extrudes a single thread is indeed crystal clear, and a single thin layer is completely transparent... but when you layer the plastic it becomes more of a translucent white because it's not homogeneous. This is what I expected from it anyway. It's still not a bad effect and can have some uses. The most recent thing I printed was a stand of my own design for my Galaxy Tab tablet in Galaxy Blue. I'm not really that impressed with it. The aluminium particles don't really stand out too much. Basically, I think the blue isn't quite transparent enough for it to work well. I want to build a highly detailed USS Enterprise model in many parts and I was intending to use this to print the blue stripe of the engine nacelles in Galaxy Blue with LEDs inside. Not sure it will look as nice as I picture though. I just uploaded snaps of some of the 3d printed things on my desk here at work: https://picasaweb.google.com/102544598518008997408/3dPrints?authuser=0&feat=directlink Cheers, Troy

I think I must be the odd one out.... I've never measured my actual temperature, but it must read low because I print at 175 and get fantastic results. I used to print at 190 and found that lowering it to 175 reduced stringing a little bit... But I still have really bad stringing. I think I might even be able to go a little lower on the temp. Cheers, Troy.

Hmm... Perhaps I'll take the €150 plung anyway and give it a try. I've never actually had luck with anything on Wine and in this case the real question would be if it can actually connect to the USB serial port. Similar difficulties will arise when running it in a VM, but I can always generate the gcode and run that in Repg or something. Cheers, Troy.

Hi All, I havn't seen this asked anywhere... Is there hope of a Linux port of Netfabb Engine for Ultimaker? I'm a 100% Linux user and no longer have any Windows boxes around.. I do have a Windows XP install somewhere in a VirtualBox virtual machine, but I rarely ever load that up. I can see on the NetFabb website that NetFabb basic is available for Linux, and as far as I can tell the Netfabb engine is just a customized version of Netfabb Basic - is that correct? I would really like to give Netfabb a spin, but I'm not ready to install Windows just for that. Does anyone have any experience with running it in a VM? Cheers, Troy.