IRobertI
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Posts posted by IRobertI
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Nice one. Personally I'm not all that bothered by my fan as I seem to have gotten lucky and have a, relatively, quiet one. I have been toying with the idea of cutting a big hole in the bottom of the machine to mount a big and slow (and thus quiet) 120mm fan on the inside of the machine blowing down (with a screen over it of course to catch debris). I haven't had the heart to cut into the machine yet though
But hey, if this works that might be a better alternative. A lot cleaner at the very least.
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Like dinac said that looks perfectly usable. Heat it up a bit to make the plastic softer and thus easier to clean out. I like to use a q-tip which I twist in the cavity while it is hot (the PEEK that is, not the q-tip
), takes the leftover PLA right out. It might be hard to screw the brass tube back in if it's cold so once again, heat everything up a bit before re-assembly and it'll be much much easier. -
No, it shouldn't be doing that. I haven't been able to get myself to get back into Netfabb since the latest update, there's too much weirdness in the latest version :/ It's too bad as it used to be my primary slicer and I love the interface with all the editing/positioning/etcetc features (not the printing interface though, that blows, always used printrun instead), not to mention the speed.
Maybe bug the developer about it and see what he says?
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I'll steal ddurant's words as he explains it better than I ever could. Stolen from here:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic ... NjrSqikYSo
The basic idea is that slicers used to output gcode that talked about extruder speed and x/y/z coordinates separately - it was stuff like "Start the extruder at speed A. Move to position B at feedrate C. Move to position D at feedrate C. Stop the extruder." over and over in the gcode.
With the dimension plug-in, those two separate commands merged into one single gcode command - this was "5D" since each line of gcode told the firmware how far to move in X, Y, Z and E (extruder) as well as saying how fast (time) the move/extrusion should be. The problem with this was that the E part of that command referred to extrusion length out of the nozzle and, for a given specific volume of plastic, that length can vary based on nozzle size, flow rate, temperature, plastic formula and 97 other things.
With volumetric 5D (SF40), that troublesome E component changed to specify the length of raw filament into the extruder drive. Because the slicer (SF) knows the volume of threads it's outputting (h * w * l) and now knows the diameter of your filament (from the Dimension tab), it can very exactly calculate how much filament needs to go into the extruder to draw the correct shape/size line in the the correct amount of time.
So.. Volumetric 5D slicers like SF40+ are frickin' awesome, since there's no more screwing around with calibration cubes to get the flow rate to match the feed rate. You want to print at a different layer height? Just change the layer height and you're done. Want different thread widths? No problem - just change w/t and SF figures out the right flow rate. It's really quite nice.
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Insanely quick is a bit of an exaggeration
At my current job (for the next month or so when I'll be unemployed, yay!...) we ship the same day 99% of the time. At my previous job we had fixed times that said "order before x and it will ship before y", if we for some reason couldn't make the timeline we sent a cab with the part instead. My current job is a small company and my previous was a multi million thing.Gotta give them credit for getting it down to two weeks instead of a couple of months though.
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Netfabb is volumetric now so you shouldn't need to do any calibration (besides measuring your filament very carefully). See this thread for instructions on how to switch to volumetric mode:
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I think Netfabb can do that but I'm not 100% sure, I think I saw something like that when I was poking around in the settings. Of course that's not free so that might not be an option for you.
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Have you calibrated at all? Or, if using the latest version, switched to volumetric and put in the correct diameter for your filament?
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You might also want to try disabling dwindle, I had some quality issues on the outside of a print that went away when I disabled it.
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I worded my post badly. I didn't mean the flatness of the top surface but rather what kind of details you can get at the top. You are of course right that a flat surface is perfectly doable.
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That print doesn't look too bad at all, certainly not for being one of your first prints (mine were a lot worse than that).
As for the top surface. The top will always be worse than the sides. Reason being that you simply don't have the same kind of "resolution" for the top surface as you have on the sides. The ultimaker can easily print tiny tiny layers (I use 0.05mm external layers when I want to be fancy) but on each layer you're limited by the relatively massive 0.4mm nozzle size. So for the top of an object the smallest feature you can print will never be smaller than 0.4mm.
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Maybe you need to adjust the tension screw on the filament drive. Since you say that you can push filament manually without problem but the plastic only comes out intermittently when printing it might be that the filament is slipping in the drive. If you look at the filament that has been pushed in by the machine, does it have visible "bite marks" from the drive screw? There should be clearly visible marks.
It could also be that the tension screw is tightened too hard so that the filament gets deformed enough that it gets stuck in the bowden tube (this is uncommon). If the filament looks really squashed this could be the problem.
It might also be the dreaded "plug" but try adjusting the tension first and see how that works.
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If it's just a simple box you need for testing it would probably be easier and quicker if you simply model the box to look like that and slice it with zero infill.
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That is very normal jcosmo, that's a sound pretty much all machines of this type makes. Some even use CNC-machines to play music.
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Exactly, everything should be as close to 90 degrees to each other as you can get it. Check the instructions here under point #10 and onwards. It shows how to use one of the wooden pieces as a crude measuring tool to help with alignment. Of course it doesn't have to be down to the micron but make it as close as you can, no reason to not do it when you've put so much effort into the rest of the machine
http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev ... e_XY-frame
Oh and there's a vid on that page about belt tension where you can see him moving the print head around very very easily by hand. My head is quite a bit stiffer than that video shows. IIRC the video shows an early machine where it was easier to move the head by hand, they stiffened it up for later versions.
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My head is quite stiff when moving it manually but it works great while printing. If you've made sure your rods are nice and square and you can move the head around without using excessive force you should just go ahead with the rest of the assembly (do make sure that the short belts are real tight though, push down hard on the motors and then tighten the screws). It is most likely fine.
You can tweak belt tension later when you start printing, it'll be obvious if it needs to be done or not.
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I have a little project that I'll post eventually, nothing special but it's driving me a little crazy
Shit wont work the way I want :lol: -
Yeah I don't think it's a good idea to cram everything into one thread. There's a nice discussion going on here for one part of the machine, no need to mix it up with other random stuff as well.
(feel free to delete this post if you disagree)
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To keep the noise down I went really hi-tech... I cut off four pieces of rubber hose and stuck one piece under each corner :mrgreen: Simple, cheap and took all of a minute to do. Works great
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Well 31mm x 27mm isn't exactly huge either, it's like the top part of my thumb. How tiny is tiny exactly? Just as a guess I'd say cura is interpreting your meters as millimeters or something. Try printing the first layer and measure it to see what might be going on?
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Howdy
Just a quickie, when printing huge objects you need to split them apart into several pieces so that they fit inside the printer. What program(s) do you guys use for that? I normally use Solidworks for my editing but SW refuses to import my STL (as a solid) in this case as it is too complex. I know that Netfabb is able to do it but as far as I could tell it can only do simple splits along a single axis. In this case I need to slice it apart at an angle at a specific area of the model.
I tried Blender and couldn't get it done. It's the first time I use it so maybe I'm doing it wrong but I managed to import the model, select it, enter edit mode, select the "Knife" tool and as I clicked to make a line it promptly crashed...
I guess I could simplify the mesh but I think I'd lose too much detail for my taste.
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And if I might post a little semi-related request. Unless I've completely missed it (entirely possible) there doesn't seem to be an option to show only one slice at a time? In Netfabb you can choose to show only the "active" slice as you scroll through them and I find myself using that quite often to see how the infill/perimeters/etc look for tricky areas so I can quickly re-slice with different settings if need be.
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In Skeinforge there's a module called "Multiply" for this purpose. I don't know if cura gives you access to it but you might try Daid's own version of it that builds an object at a time instead of all at once.
Or you could duplicate the object in your favourite 3d-editor.
Or you could use Netfabb.
I'm sure there are other ways but those are the ones that spring to mind at 9AM after 5 hours of sleep.
), takes the leftover PLA right out. It might be hard to screw the brass tube back in if it's cold so once again, heat everything up a bit before re-assembly and it'll be much much easier.
Chipped wood/laser cuts
in Coffee corner
Posted
That's not how it was on my machine, my pieces mostly just fell out (after I removed the plastic they put on the backs of the panels. But, I don't think you'll have any problems with those end stops, there's virtually no pressure on them at all. As for the t-holes a small chip should be ok since you have more than one of them holding stuff together (just don't over tighten naturally).
Personally I'd still contact Ultimaker though. You shouldn't have to force and potentially destroy pieces just to get them out. I guess that they might have changed things up a bit and left small slivers of wood un-cut to keep things together but.. eh, I dunno, you shouldn't have to force stuff.