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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. sadly after I updated the firmware via cura, my ultimaker is not recognised by cura - the connection just times out, as with the other entries at the start of this thread - very frustrating :( so unable to update via cura at all now. I think I'll have to remove the arduino and try flashing the firmware that way - joy To be honest I'm surprised that UM haven't put a warning on the update process to stop others bricking their machines. Or at least explicit instructions on how to avoid the issue.
  2. I've been having the same problem (unable to connect to the ultimaker as at the start of this thread), but whenever I hit the upload button the arduino software first compiles the sketch prior to upload - so for me it has not worked. How do I set it to upload without compile?
  3. Hi Thanks for the response. When I measure the resistance between the two I get about 140 k, which drops as I warm the thermistor in my hand. So that indicates to me the thermistor and wiring at that end are OK - sound fair? In terms of the connections I have one end on signal and the other end on ground. I allso tried one end on ground and the other on 5v and got the same maxtemp error message. Does anyone know which is the correct connection? Previously in this thread there is a picture showing the signal and ground connection, so I've assumed that's the way to go. And secondly does anyo
  4. Hi I've recently tried to install the e3d hot end,and keep on getting a maxtemp error. I soldered a 4.7k resistor to r23, updated the firmware to the recommended epcos version as described previously. I've tried to go with the complete e3d system, so am using their thermistor, heater block, nozzle etc. But I keep getting this error, have checked the connections many times and still fail. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks
  5. thanks joergen for your detailed reply! I have now managed to solve my popping problems, and my machine is working better than it has for months. I didn't use the method above however, I went for something a bit simpler. Gaffer tape (aka duck tape). I wrapped a little round the Bowden tube at the end, where it is clamped to the hot end. this increased the friction between the clamp and the tube enough that the thing stayed in place, for a while Anyway. I then printed out all the bits for Owens Bowden clamp, and kept on printing till the Bowden tube finally popped. when it popped I fitted th
  6. Hi When I try to connect my computer to the ultimaker, I get a "line number is not last line number+1, last line:0" error message. I'm using replicatorg 26 on linux. replicator g will connect for about a second, then I get that message. I've tried updating the firmware (sprinter/marlin both versions) and I've tried using a windows machine with the same set up, and had the same results. any idea what is wrong? many thanks
  7. ok test over and another failure. I just pulled out another plug, so it looks to me like the fit of the bowden is incorrect, as you mention Joergen. My original bowden tube was not teflon, but some other type of plastic with much more friction (I forget the name). I think the original tube was causing the friction and causing the hobbed bolt to chew the filament, distorting the pla an leading to more friction. So from your advice it looks like now I need to improve that transition from bowden to peek. I've tried many times now to get the bowden tube snug onto the peek, and each time i
  8. many thanks for the responses. I am using a variety of colours of filament, which doesn't seem to make a difference. I have checked the filament diameter using some crappy calipers and it seems to be fairly constant - but due to the low quality calipers, I can't really be certain. When I start a print, the print head is very close to the build platform, to the extent that the only sign of printing is a kind of "sheen" or shininess on the tape. The poor quality extrusion starts after 5-10 minutes or so. Would the back pressure cause a plug/blockage that would only manifest after this tim
  9. many thanks greengecko, I will check for any fresh plugs in the hot end, and also measure the filament diameter.
  10. thanks for your response. The difference in friction when moving the pla down the bowden tube by hand was noticable - so I think the new tube probably did help a bit. My printing temperature starts at 230 then drops to about 190, and in the past (when things were working well) these temperatures were fine. I also try to avoid leaving the printer hot and idle, as I read somewhere this was bad for the printer. If you let me know what further information would help with the diagnosis, I will dig it out. thanks
  11. hi I've been having problems with my prints, and have spent the last month or so trying to fix them without success. The problem is as follows: The first few layers come out fine, generally to a good quality. But as the later layers print, the amount of PLA coming out of the extruder seems to reduce, resulting in blobby, stringy layers (see pic). The line of filament will be ok, then low volume, then normal again (over maybe a couple of mm of travel). this results in a layer that is only partly solid, kind of bitty. the next layer then doesn't lie on the previous layer, and the print fai
  12. I have tried reducing the extruder temperature, and this helped a little, but did not resolve the problem. To be clear, the problem was that the print head would slow down dramatically, to maybe 1mm per second, for travel along one side of the triangle. This would result in too much plastic being extruded, and also localised melting of previously extruded material. I then got round to installing netfabb on my machine, and started testing it - and so far it does not seem to have the same problem. I've tried using the standard ultimaker profile, and also the same profile but with the temper
  13. I have recently got netfabb running using the method posted above. The software will not connect to my ultimaker so i'm still using replicatorG, but netfabb seems to be doing a good job of creating the gcode (still testing it, to be fair). I am using Ubuntu 10.10. Afraid my knowledge of linux is limited, so i can't help with the specific problem noted above. I have however had a lot of help in the past from the ubuntu forums, so possibly someone there may be able to point you in the right direction.
  14. ok thanks, I'll try reducing the temperature as far as possible. I'll also try getting cura up and running when it is released.
  15. hi I've been having problems printing smaller details - when the print gets to the detailed sections, the printhead speed slows down a lot. This leads to too much PLA being extruded, and the surrounding plastic melts, leading to a bit of a melted mess (but fairly localised). I've tried slowing down (and speeding up) the print head speed, but this has failed to noticably change the printhead speed. I've also tried reducing the extruder feedrate, again without any impact on the problem. I've tried to attach an image showing the gear cube I have printed, showing the problem - which only occur
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