Jump to content

antiklesys

Dormant
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    215

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by antiklesys

    UM1 Head Fan always on after short

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi everyone,

    I was checking something out on the head fan and a small short happened on the fan wires. The UM went all off as a soft fuse detected the short in the power supply.

    I power cycled the psu and the UM went on again but the head fan is now always on. I tried turning everything on and off several times, started prints and so on, but it's still on all the time. I also reflashed the firmware but no luck.

    Any hints or suggestions on something to try?

    I tried checking the voltage on the fan and it reads 19V.

    Is that the correct reading i should be getting?

    Any help is welcome!

     

    Ultimaker Original Feeder Upgrade (& history)

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Since I got my Ultimaker I was really frustrated with the design of the feeder.

    I found it unreliable.

    Back in the days the ultimaker feeder was just composed by two pieces of plastc creating tension on the filament.

    Here was my first feeder upgrade which I designed to include a cheap bearing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21674

    Then it was remixed to make it stronger: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25490

    I tried both these, and bertho's which is basically the same plus a spring, but I wasn't still satisfied and what I ended up doing was to turn the nut on the spring as much as I could...and that still wasn't enough.

    I decided to go back to Geo Hangen's design, which worked fine for me for a lot of time. It is strong and reliable, but outdated (link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15897 )

    I destroyed my old one (literally, broke several pieces of my print accidentally lol) and printed a new one including in the design the spring concept, but from a different point of view.

    In my design the nut on the spring is used to reduce the pressure on the filament rather than add it.

    So far I've been printing with it all day with no major issues (apart from burning a polulo stepper driver due having set the wrong ESTEPS initially :p ).

    Your thoughts?

    Pictures below:

    1.jpg

    2.jpg

    3.jpg

    4.jpg

    My idea now is to design a feeder which is based on the same concept but works with the stock UM parts.

    Any feedback and suggestions are welcome.

     

    • Like 1

    ultimaker italiani !

    in Italiano

    Posted

    Il porta spoletta secondo me non risolve numerosi problemi...a forza di essere utilizzato il filo inizia a forzare e dopo un po' inizia a venir grindato.

    Io mi sono spesso ritrovato a dover mettere il filamento in terra e tagliare spezzoni di 10-15 metri per ovviare al problema.

    Voi come avete risolto?

     

    ultimaker italiani !

    in Italiano

    Posted

    Ciao, ho apportato le seguenti migliorie:

    -direct drive

    -z stage flexible coupling

    -x y blocks

    -fan duct

    -printhead

    -3 point magnetic bed leveling system

    -z index adjuster

    -feeder upgrade

    ora sto lavorando ad uno spool holder

     

    Spring belt tensioner

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    I have been using those and found them being amazing. I have now changed my UM blocks to the printed twister blocks of Chopmeister. I am worried that now using the spring belt tensioners would put too much tension on the belts.

    What would be the issue with that?

    Any similar spring tensioner with a softer spring around?

     

    ultimaker italiani !

    in Italiano

    Posted

    Ciao, bisogna anche dire che UM1 e UM2 sono due macchine completamente diverse.

    Personalmente preferisco UM1 perché è facilmente modificabile rispetto alla UM2.

    Per quanto riguarda Cura ed i settaggi c'è poco da modificare, però io mi sono trovato molto bene con le seguenti modifiche ai settings di default:

    - In expert settings ho impostato Z hop a 0.075 ed ho tolto la spunta dalle opzioni "Fix Horrible" perché spesso creano degli errori in stampa (mi sono ritrovato con oggetti che dovevano essere forati, ma fix horrible aveva chiuso i fori).

    - Ho cambiato la temperatura di stampa a 200 gradi

    In passato ho usato anche NetFabb ed una cosa carina di quel programma era che anche il primo layer aveva la risoluzione impostata. Con Cura anche se imposti una risoluzione di 20 micron, il primo layer lo fa comunque a 300 micron. Questo lo puoi cambiare da: Advanced -> Quality -> Initial Layer Thickness.

    Confesso che modificare quest'ultima impostazione rende la stampa leggermente più difficile per quanto riguarda il primo layer, ma a seconda di quello che vuoi fare può convenire giocare con questo valore.

    Con entrambe le stampanti le prime cose da fare sono stampare le migliorie di base :)

     

    20 micron

    in Italiano

    Posted

    I 20 micron in verticale si possono raggiungere con NetFabb (software per Ultimaker), ma anche da Cura (altro software per Ultimaker) con le opportune calibrazioni.

    Essendo la macchina facilmente modificabile, puoi senz'altro ridurre le imprecisioni apportando migliorie.

     

    E-steps for different knurled bolt size

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    I will, but the popping of the tube wasn't related to that.

    I verified it's due a new kind of filament I'm testing which likes to get clogged in the print head (happens also with the normal extruder, but instead it starts grinding)

    I am going to try to increase the print temperature from 200 to 210 and see how that works.

    I am going to try and verify also the diameter of this new filament, it might be it's 3mm instead of 2.85, hence causing "overextrusion-like" problems.

     

×
×
  • Create New...