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blecheimer

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  1. Is there already a solution? I am using Cura 3.1 for about two weeks and right now it refused to start. Cura stopped at "Loading Interface..." (Win 7 / updated from 3.04, no beta installed). Tried to start as admin - no difference. Tried to kill the Cura.exe process in the taskmanager - does not work. This makes Cura very much useless!
  2. I would love to see that feature! A space mouse is a standard tool in my business. After some time you do not want to work without one anymore.
  3. blecheimer

    PLA-HT

    You can re-use the blue tape many times. I only replace it when it is torn. Today I made some test-prints with Multec's PLA-HT and blue tape on my heated bed. No issues, fantastic print results. 0.1mm layers, 220°C nozzle, 60°C bed, 50mm/s Source: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:607518
  4. It is a stock UMO with the heated bed upgrade kit. You need two fan ducts and of course two fans and some bolts to attach the fans. Besides that - nothing else. But for printing ABS no fans are needed.
  5. 1) Heat upt to 70°C 2) Print PLA 3) Cool down 4) At about 40°C you print will come loose 5) Clean you bed with a putty knife / spatual / scraper / credit card 5a) From time to time use a microfiber cloth to wipe your bed clean 6) goto 1 I never used the glue stick so far.
  6. Nur ein kleiner Denkanstoß: Willst du riskieren, dass deine Wohnung aufgrund eines Elektrikdefekts abfackelt, weil du keine 30 Euro für ein Ersatzteil ausgeben wolltest bzw. zu ungeduldig bist, eine Woche auf das Teil zu warten? Es gibt Sachen, die repariert man und Dinge, die ersetzt man besser. Ich bin immer sehr für's Basteln und Reparieren. Aber manchmal greife ich tatsächlich ohne zu zögern zu einem neuen Ersatzteil.
  7. Yes, I have a heated bed kit and these fan ducts a especially made for this upgrade. The ducts will not touch the metal clamps if you use the whole bed size. It is recommeded to print these fan ducts in ABS to prevent melting or bending. PLA90 will work, too. I have no experience with XT, I guess it will do the job as well. I am using two identical fans. They share one connector. But they are not stock (though they are the same size), I simply used some fans I had laying around.
  8. Sure, if you want to try it: Left Fan Duct Right Fan Duct I used Orbi-Tech's PLA90 for my mobile phone holder in my car. It easily resisted 70°C. Normal PLA melted like hot cheese. You just have to know that PLA90 is softer than normal PLA.
  9. 1) Use two layers of blue tape. The second layer will come off with your print. Then you do not have to remove the bed everytime. 2) I adjusted my bed so that there is a gap of 0.1mm between the nozzle and the blue tape. For me that was the best compromise between sticking and removing. 3) Try using some other kind of tape. I just bought the cheapest I could find. Removal was easy and sticking was ok.
  10. I do not see the need for an aluminium fan holder. For me it is way easier to design my own fan duct and print it in ABS or PLA90. With these materials the temperature is not a problem anymore. Just a glimpse at my ABS fan ducts.
  11. Exactly - I just manually prime my hotend until the right color shows up. This is way easier than printing something just to get the old color out...
  12. Hab mal aufgeschrieben, wie ich mehrfarbig mit einem Hotend drucke. Vielleicht hilft es ja dem einen oder anderen. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8172-multicolor-print/
  13. Since some time I am working on printing logos and badges with more than two colors and only one hotend. This is the result: Printed on an UM1 with a heated bed (works on blue tape as well) Maybe some of you want to try simple multicolor prints, too. So, this is how I do it: First split your CAD model according to the colors. E.g. one STL for blue, one for red, one for white and so on. The models for each color should be 0.2mm heigh. Only the last color you will print can be as high as you want. Slice them and then print the first color: Do not remove the result from your bed! I am using these settings: Layer height: 0.1mm Retraction: on Z-Hop on retraction: 0.3mm Fill: 100% Initial layer thickness: 0 No skirt, brim or raft As the model ist only 0.2mm high two layers will be printed. Print the next color and use the same setting as for the first color. Like the first print only two layers will be printed. If you are using more than three colors, just repeat this step. White is my last color. It covers up all other colors. This can be as high as you want. Mine is 1.5mm These are the settings for the last color: Layer height: 0.15mm (what you like) Retraction: on Z-Hop on retraction: 0.075mm Fill: 100% (what you like) Initial layer thickness: 0.3 You may use a skirt If everything went right this might be the result: It is not perfect - my nozzle is still leaking black ABS from an earlier print. But it is good enough to decorate my toolbox. Just some more multicolor prints - try it, it's fun!
  14. Das ist einfach. Zuerst stecke ich ein kurzes, einzelnes Stück PLA in den Bowdentube. Beim TVR-Logor waren es z.B. 17cm schwarzes PLA. Dann stecke ich PLA einer anderen Farbe hinterher. Beim Logo ist das dann Gold. Das goldene PLA drückt das schwarze in das Hotend. Schwarz kommt zuerst raus. Wenn das aufgebraucht ist, kommt logischerweise automatisch das goldene PLA raus. Da drucke ich einfach die drei verschiedenen Farben als einzelne Modelle nacheinander auf die selbe Stelle, ohne den jeweils fertigen Druck vom Bett zu entfernen. Das geht natürlich nur, wenn die Schichten sehr dünn sind.
  15. Bei kleinen Objekten füttere ich den Bowdenzug mit zwei Farben. Dann brauche ich die Pause-Funktion nicht: Schwarz mit Faberdashery Gold Man kann sogar mit drei Farben drucken: Die England-Flagge ist mit drei Farben gedruckt. Diesmal habe ich aber nicht drei Farben in den Bowdenzug gefüttert, sondern die drei Farben nacheinander und übereinander gedruckt. Blau und Rot liegen auf der selben Ebene und bestehen aus zwei Schichten zu 0.1mm. Weiss deckt die beiden Schichten ab und hält dann alles zusammen. Allerdings geht der Drei-Farb-Druck nicht wirklich gut und hängt sehr davon ab, wie weit die Farben von einander getrennt sind und wo sie liegen.
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