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Everything posted by 3dtopo

  1. Greetings, We recently published a complete documentary of the process I use to transform a 3D printed PLA part to a machine ready aluminum alloy casting: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:82176 Please let me know if you have any questions!
  2. Thanks magicxman, that did the trick! I am using the onboard MOSFET so I enabled PIDTEMPBED.
  3. Thanks Daid. I just rebuilt the firmware and still the same issue. Any ideas?
  4. So my heated bed has been working great: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30655 But I just hooked up an Ulticontroller i just got, and enabled the Ulticontroller using Daid's excellent firmware builder at: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ And the heated bed no longer works (It was still configured for the heated bed). If I upload firmware without the Ulticontroller enabled the heated bed works. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  5. Hi, I just received my replacement Ultimaker RAMPS board. It is version 1.5.7. Before I build custom firmware using Daid's awesome firmware builder at: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ I just wanted to make sure it will be compatible with the 1.5.7 version board. Thanks!
  6. Greetings, Can anyone please tell me how to what g-code I would use to set the 2nd extruder temperature? Thanks!
  7. Can anyone please tell me what is the G-Code to set the temp on extruder 2?
  8. Is it possible to configure the firmware to use Heater 2 for the heated bed? It is not immediately obvious if I can configure the firmware to do this with http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/
  9. I have the 1.5.6 board with 50amp mosfets. The mosfet is STP55NF06L which I ordered from Mouser for $1.40. Meanwhile, I snagged the mosfet from heater 2 since I currently only use single extrusion, and, even after commanding the heated build platform off it is stuck on. I reset everything, and still on. Any ideas?
  10. Greetings, I have been using a heated build platform without issue for PLA running 65C for the first layer and 50C for the print. I just tried printing ABS and set the bed to 70C. Shortly after it reached 70C I noticed smoke coming from under the Ultimaker. It was Mosfet for the heated build platform that was smoking. Can anyone tell me the specs for a replacement mosfet? A Mouse part number would be great! Commanding the build platform to heat no longer turns the heater on. I am not sure, but I think the mother board fan might have caused the problem. I just noticed that the fan turns on
  11. Greetings, I successfully milled an aluminum bed this weekend on my CNC machine for my Ultimaker. I posted a parts list, instructions and a bed drawing for milling here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30655 I wanted to use the stock bed mount and springs, and it works great! Printing right now sans blue tape! Please let me know if you have any questions.
  12. Good points, but from everything I read on the subject, threading the Bowden has permanently resolved the issue for many folks who were plagued with the issue.
  13. Thanks Daid! I really wish they would have threaded the Bowden. Seems like the best solution to the Bowden moving up problem to me.
  14. I understand completely. I didn't develop the iPad Photo App of the Year (named by Apple) by creating an interface with 10,000 options. Its power is in its' simplicity. That said, there are some very useful things that could be added carefully without taking over the primary focus: to print!
  15. Thanks Daid! It would be nice to add little things like this to Cura. Need any help with the dev? Is there a dev list or something?
  16. Sorry to revive an old thread, but is there something like "startZ" in Cura? I want to print a different color on top of a color just printed. Thanks!
  17. I just read that the v2 hotend has been unveiled: https://twitter.com/protospaceNL/status/240161261210464256/photo/1 Can we please get some more information on it?
  18. Do you know when the batch of bad Ultimaker filament was discovered?
  19. Well it is doing the shortest path (I assume) to the next area it is going to lay down plastic. Which is all good and fine for all the layers that you can't see. But it would be really nice if it used slightly longer paths on the top and bottom to move to the next place.
  20. I would love to see an option for the top and bottom layers to not cross the piece when not extruding (that creates strings that ends up being visible). This is purely for cosmetic reasons, but I think it is the only thing preventing a really polished looking print. I am willing to help if I can. See attached image for the strings I am referring to.
  21. That design flaw is what I stated I think I fixed in my first post. I am using Owen's Bowden Clamp with a metal e-ring. But like I said, the key seems to be to make the tube a little bit longer than when screwed together so there is constant pressure on the PTFE from the Bowden. The last clog turns out it wasn't a clog in the hot end after all (and likely the other previous clogs after fixing the hot end clogging issue). Even with the hot end removed I could not force the filament though the Bowden tube. The next design flaw seems to be with the extruder. I am starting to suspect that it is
  22. I attached a pen, and I still get an oval. The oval is essentially the same shape that I am getting in plastic. See attached images. It seems that the smaller the circle, the more noticeable it is oval.
  23. Hmmm, well darn it, I just got another plug. It printed flawlessly for about an hour at 216C @ 100mm/s. I haven't taken it apart yet, but I suspect it is the same issue. I heated up the nozzle to 250C, removed the nozzle head, and I still can't force the tube through. This is really starting to dash my hopes. Each time it clogs it is really time consuming to get it working again. It seems like the hot end has serious design issues. How am I ever supposed to ever print larger items that require many hours?
  24. Hi, Daid: I don't think it is possible for the plastic to know to cool differently on the X and Y axises. SandervG: My pulleys are as tight as I can get them with the included screwdriver. However, there are no flat ends on the motor shafts which means they could still slide (which I found rather strange). However, I don't think it is slipping because all of my layers are practically perfectly lined up, see attached images. If it was slipping, I don't think this would be possible. In my experience with my CNC machines that are belt driven, it is critical to calibrate the axises as slight
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