bob

would love to see that new slicer.... currently I have extrusion issues with cura and cant use it at all, since I never know if what it outputs will be useful, and kisslicer does outlines, manytimes seperateing the same form into diffrent parts leaving gaps in prints, or rough edges.

thanks for the suggestion, though I have allread tried that (see above). I wanted to switch the motors, but I notice that the extruder is not completely cicular, so that isnt an option :(

this time I printed the calibration pyramid, and watched the extruider motor the entire time. It seemed like it simply got weaker up to about the middle of the print where it just stopped alltogether (including retraction). I took pictures of the results...

Today I tried printing some Gcobe that I spliced a few weeks ago (right after I finished building the um) and the issue is the same, which proves atleast that the gcode is not the problem. so if it is not the driver or the gcode that leaves the controller board or the motor it self does anyone know if there is a way to test the motor with out switching it out? how do I controll the second extruder slot via gcode?

So, after two and a bit weeks of (mostly) sucsessful printing, i've encountered another issue. for some reason the stepper motor for the extrusion stops moving near the end of the print. I noticed this on multiple recent prints such as the (shorter) screw print of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8796 and other objects about as hight (but with diffrent mass (as far as that pertains with 20% fill)). I checked the gcode for any anomalys in the file, but there dont seem to be any. I just noticed the gears are still turning, but about as slow as the hour hand on a clock (i.e. its only visible if you look at it for a while). Anyone have any suggestions? I plan on switing the extrusion motor driver with one for an axis to see if that may be the issue... but other then defect hardware I don't have any Idea what it could be. (is there any sort of garantie for the mortors?) attached is the gcode... maybe someone will find something unusual in there... though I doubt it, since i did re code it three times. Thanks Note: I switched the stepper drivers and the extrusion still stops. so the issue is either with the motor or the gcode.... hopefully?

I guess that is why most people suggested moving the Z-axis faster.... Though that probably would only make the "gap" more prominent.... thanks for the info

I searched for z scars in the forum and am still not sure where the problem comes from exactly. even though most posts said to raise the Z speed. My guess is that, it is due to extrudeing while moving in the z direction? or maybe leftover extrusion? in that case woudnt it be posible to move the head to the inner part of the model (if possible) and then lower the table? correct me if Im wrong (which I most likly am ).

I printed my longest print yesterday (8 hours) and came up upon a few visual blemishes that I would like to desperse. If anyone could list optimizations for my config/splicer it would be much apreciated. I circled her 4 problem zones on the front. Zone one and two consist of excess blobbing both of which are simular, Zone 3 on the otherhand is a very neat blobing. they look like lines that are ment to be there, (I checked the splicer but there were no errors visible in this area). Zone 4 consitsts of an inverted zone 1 and 2. it looks like blobs are missing in the insife of the model frame. This is her backside (obiously). I marked the printspeed of the diffrent areas (manually slowing down in the middle) and descovered something that I had seen before at slow speeds. In the 40mm/s area it is possible to see blobing on the inner sleave (the otherside did not have this). The blobbing is much more extreem then the blob lines that i have found. As soon as I turned up the speed again, the blobbing dissapears (mostly). Also there is a line of sparse blobbing on the inner thigh. A bit of stringing is visible as well between the sheaths and the arms (both arms). and the overlays (i.e. buttocs and hands) are just miserable. my splicer is Cura and I edited the following settings: speed 100mm retraction 4.5mm z height 0.1mm temp: 205° the rest of the settings are at default any suggestions would be welcome.

yes, I understand why it was fraying, unfortunately I havent been able to alighn it perfectly. as for what I mean by rotating, I am refering to the belt.... I may have done a very bad job of describeing it so Ill try again. The short belt which is connected to the stepper moves rotates, depending on which way the motor is turning but on top of rotating the belt on the y axis (from the motor), the belt is also rotating 30° on the z axis (both sides of the belt) depending on which way the motor is moving, the belt moves +15° or -15°. The reason for this, is that it rubs on the edge of the pully, so the friction pulls one side up at the motor and the other side up at the other end (pully). I tried tightening it as far as it would go, but it didnt fix the problem. In the end I simply replaced the belt, and it now seems to run smoothly. My guess is that it was just a defective belt, thogh I still get the rotating issue, but it doesnt have (much, if any) affect on the printing, that I can determin. I should probably post a picture...

same here... the lableing is incorrect but the first start configuration on cura does the trick (though i figure if you just switch them from the start it would work properly. I got mine last week.)

I dont understand where the problem is... i checked all the things suggested, but I still get a slanted print. I did notice something though... it isnt slanted when I print smaller objects.only large objects (larger than 6cm in the x direction) seem to have the issue. also the short belt connected directly to the motor seems to be somewhat frayed, and regardless of how tight or loose i make it, and where I position the pully it "rotates" about 30° depending on the print direction. the belt connected to the other stepper does this as well, but not as exreem (maybe 5-10°).this obiously happens due to the belt rubbing against the side of the pullys, but maybe it also points to something else.

unfortunately not :(

I realigned the rods again yesterday and the result was much better, unfortunately it seems that I now messed something else up as the whole print is slanted :-o

Thanks for the quick awnser, Ill try that as soon as I get home. unfortunately I think it may be the gantry not beeing square, as the rods are fairly smeary. and I didnt mess with the stepper drivers (intentionally).

So for my third print I decided to try some thing more advanced.... after realigning the x and y axels, I printed http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26586 from thingyverse. the base turned out absolutly fine, no slant noticed. then I printed the body and got this my guess is that a belt in the x direction is jumping maybe? Any help would be appreciated.

arent the holes in the V2 parts slightly larger so the white platic piece which attaches to thew teflon tube can fit inside them? Correct me if im wrong, since I only built my first UM yesterday... (I hope I did build the V2 head and not the V1 head :-o )

I have the same issue seen in Xonegons video (irregular head moving resistance) I just built my ultimaker yesterday, so I dont even know if it works, but my guess is that as hard as the head is to move by hand, the prints wount turn out very well... the outer rods with belts move very well by them selves, when the head is not attached, so Im guessing that the axels which go threw the head are putting pressure on the outer rods. Any thoughts about this would be appreciated. Update: I tested my UM yesterday and I also heard some clicking sounds, though only a few. also wobbles and irregularties were visible in the print at certain positions. below an example of the resulting print (my first one): you can see iregularties all along the right arm