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bob

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  1. My printer is using 19.5V, since that the lowest I could adjust the Chinese 24V power supply with out using extra electronics..But no, am not have those kinds of issues...yet... Just ordered new heads with 12V 40W hearters but in retrospect i probably should have gone with 24Vs and mosfets instead...
  2. Yes, my fan probably blows on the nozzle too much... I have the UMO which had a 19V power supply ( i've since replaced it) I. I am guessing you are referring to the PID in the Firmware?
  3. Thanks for the info. I was hoping to go directly for the 40W since my current one maxes out at 230°c when using it for a longer duration. Unfortunately the ninja flex that I purchased needs 260°c to come out properly. In what way would I need to adjust the PID values?
  4. There are quite a few people who made mounts for the E3d V6 + UMO on Thingyverse most of who have instructions and information about this transformation.
  5. Anyone happen to know how many watts the Heater in the hotend of the UMO has?
  6. Just out of curiosity, did you purchase an original E3d V6? I am also planning on this, so I am curious as to the top temperature you can reach with the Head. As to your issue, did you change the extrusion rate? The MK8 feeder dumps much more filament per rotation than the original feeder (I use a combination of the two, so I didn't have to recompile the firmware for that modification). What changes did you make to the firmware regarding build plate size? Travel distances are defined in the Firmware (Configuration.h) with : #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 #define X_MAX_POS 205 #define Y_MAX_POS 205 #define Z_MAX_POS 200
  7. Amadee's builder seems to be working again. It is the last Firmware I used after I completed my Heated bed, It seems to be a branch from the Ultimaker branch, So I think I will use the configurator to build the configuration.h and then download the branch and build it manually.
  8. I am fairly certain I would have to anyway, as I dont remember any of the Builders to have an option for Serial_Port, My dilemma is where can I find the default settings for the UMO. As my latest searches have pointed me to the Ultimaker Marlin Branch in GITHub, which seems to contain the required Config file, my current question is, weather I should use the Ultimaker build or the latest Marlin build... The UltimakerMarlin branch does not seem to be very current, And I am unsure if the branch was made purely for the Configuration.h or if other files were modified as well...
  9. I am trying to add WiFi to an Ultimaker (Original) via Serial 3 on the Ultimaker 1.5.7 pcb. I measured the Rx/Tx pins on an oscilloscope an neither peeped. I have read that I need to enable this in Marlin via #define SERIAL_PORT 3 // this is normally set to 0 #define BTENABLED // enable this now the issue that I am having is all three of the marlin builder websites that I know of are not working. (Daid's, Ginge's and Amadee's) and I am looking for a Configuration.h that is setup for the ultimaker original as defined by the defaults of one of the builders. Anyone know where I can find that? (of course a solution to my issue that does not require rebuilding marlin would be just as good.) Also, I am sad to see that The tags don't contain "UMO".
  10. What do yo mean by parks? are the heads actually moved up and down separately from each other?
  11. Is it possible to use the UM2 Dual Extruder head for the Original, if I replace the L7812 on the board with a R-78C12 and use a 24V 30A Power supply? What about then hooking up a heated bed directly to the board as well, or would that fry something on the board? Also would there be any firmware issues If I compiled with the correct thermisters in Ginge's Marlin Builder? Wow, so many questions, but any answers would be helpful, thanks.
  12. Here is an old tutorial which I saved for when I finally do the upgrade myself: http://flashgamer.com/hardware/comments/adding-a-heated-build-platform-to-your-ultimaker
  13. bob

    From sclic3r to cura

    I usually change the speed directly on the printer during print if I feel the need (or want to play arround)
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