3dcase
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Posts posted by 3dcase
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Hi,
Totally depends on witch PLA I guess, I have a 2 year old grey roll of PLA, still flexible and useable.
Some other rolls, after a month, break overnight in the printer.
Somewhere on this forum should be a storage topic.
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If you go to the folder where cura installed, there is a python file in there somewhere - a small one - that describes all the changes for that version of cura. It *is* unfortunate that it only pops up once and there's no way to get it back.
Hi Gr5,
is it a idea to Unpin The Old Cura 13.12 issue, and Pin a topic about changes in the newest version?
I guess not only 'newbie' and Me are interested in changes and if we have to update the Firmware Yes or No?
Spares you answering a lot of the same questions, and us a lot of reading.......
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(in this case please just let me enjoy my delight...
).In that case your right anyhow
.. :unsure: Says Case de Lig(h)tDon't make me ready for another hobby
... first we needed a lot of fans, than I read something about a heated chamber to keep the print warm, than someone thinks it's necessary to make a post about the extruder motor on the printhead to get rid of the Bowden, next someone else has ideas to make the printhead as light as possible to speed up acceleration.Now I need to think of an idea to make a kind of integrated gantry system (not allowed cause it's patended as I read on this forum ;(. Although its in use for 300 years in cranes) to spray liquid nitrogen on the bottom of my prints.....
Than I need someone like Dim3ensioneer to come up with a plugin to get all that in the gcode.
And all that because in nursery school, we where not smart enough to pay attention, when they told us how to make something out of a hump of clay, used cold, put in a oven and done
Just kidding ( as I hope you understand)
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Oeps,
challenge 1, creating a good support. in Cura it forgets 2mm. strange......
Not only in the view but in real life also.
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Might be interesting to see pictures of it coming of the bed, for brims,rafts support etc.
and different stages of cleaning as well. I don't mind looking at a polished or painted one, but don't judge it on that.
Would be nice to know witch slicer and/or version is used...
Someone might find a convenient place to drop the winning Gcode to give it a try ourselves?
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May I just confirm :
The bracelet has 4 versions A-D? Is everyone printing the same version? Kinda pointless if 4 people print 4 different ones lol
I'm giving A a try I guess and starting off in the Minor league
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Hi there,
shame I did not notice this before :(
How to participate? Edit, (Or how to pass the background check
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Hi,
Gave the Left front a try in Cura, No Fix Horrible setting fixed it.
Rotating 90degr, gave other gaps.
Loading the the STL in autodesk123, gave me the idea, it's designed as 3 different parts,
not combined, melted or Boolean operated as it should.
Perhaps you can fix something with meslab or meshmixer, or request for a 3dcad file you can modify.
Perhaps another slicer to give it a try.
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Look what I found this afternoon!!!
A stone printed by the Ultimaker CEO himself, excellent quality of course!!
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Interesting... What is your experiance with this small nozzles?
Hi,
Obviously printing takes 2 times longer and using small layers.
I,ve sharpened it as much as possible, to prevent bending and moving of higher prints, because of the drag.
Its a little higher (1mm) then a standard nozzle, so you have to adjust your z switch or bed every time when changing.
But while searching yesterday I saw sets in different sizes (0.4, 0.3, 0.2) sold as well, that's more convenient.
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Here's another Ultimaker ripoff.
What's cool though, is the size. If Ultimaker decides to release an Ultimaker Mini Kit - I'll be all over it. You know, something with a small nozzle (like 0.2) tuned for small and intricate prints.
Don't count me in as no. 3 client, using one of these for a year now, and a lot cheaper
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Hi Oliver,
Check this model out!
It is fully printed on an Ultimaker Original, so it is definitely possible
Just takes some patience and skills!
:shock: Wooohw...........
Silence.............
Like to find that on Youmagine...........
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Hi,
no idea, would be interesting to know, I will give it a try.
I think the temperature will be a problem, PLA gets soft again around 50C.
Perhaps to brittle to stand the vibrations.
Do the prototyping yourself and have it printed/sintered at Shapeways?
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Suc6!!
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Have you tried it with Cura directly? You can just load the jgp. If you're not satisfied with the result, you may export an STL and tweak it with another software.
btw: welcome to the forum...
Heuh?
WTF... Loading a jpeg in cura? woohw.
Tought they where busy with serious things at Ultimaker
But chips.. It works haha.
Something to play with this afternoon LOL.
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Up to now it was pretty good thanks!
Sipping the last cup of morning coffee, before I jump on my bike, to start up the8 UM1's to try and lay a EGG again.
Nice sunny weather here in Tilburg, so looking forward to a good day!!!
Looking forward to coming home as well, I might even find a mail about a certain youmagine ultibot? Hint hint
Ich wünsche Ihnen auch einen schönen Tag!!!!!
Kees
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Hi,
the original design with the bended extra washers is pretty smart I still think, (using standard parts).
You have to play with the tension of the 4 long bolts to do the adjusting, while it swivels around those washers.
It can be done, just try and experiment some more I guess.
But in my humble opinion, the levels changed to much, due to temperature? and even the filament pressure
In fact he entire printhead, all the wooden parts are only clamped together by the force of the 2 washers, is almost 'falling' apart.
The second nozzle a little higher? perhaps to keep it from hitting the previous layer?
You could try and keep them the same level, seems more logic to me. Haven't tried dual printing with the new cura 14.03 yet, but the Z-hop function could be a nice feature in dual printing.
The printhead you linked in your post? I would go for this one personally
. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-printhead#!design-informationYou might achieve the same effect, by adding 8 M3 nuts to the standard setup.
2 on each bolt, in between the lowest thicker wooden part and the part the 2extra washers hit.
Leave out the washers, and use the upper nut to clamp the printhead/bearing part and the lower nut to clamp the nozzles and do the levelling with.
Because of the thread in the Alu plate the levelling might be difficult. If you dare, dill out the thread and use an extra nuts on the bottom alu plate instead.
Lot of luck and wishdom!!!
Kees
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I suggest to test changes one after the other and not to do too much at once. I didn't have a look at the change filament option so far. At the moment I think it is important to have a consensus about how the options should work. Otherwise we might get a I-am-not-happy-with-the-new-print-dialog-effect... :shock: if you know what I mean...
OMG No please no! :oops: :eek:
All those discussions make me want to write/Shout in my own language sometimes haha.
My only idea was, those 2 functions are almost the same, so you might combine them?
For changing filament you can even forget the 60mm of extra retraction, not to much work to do that by hand.
Even better, maybe you can copy the change filament part and paste it into the pause part?
We don't want to delete features
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What do you think?
The only important addition for the change filament option, to me would be the fixing/locking of the X,Y, steppers.
and perhaps +20mm of extra retraction, to be extra sure the new inserted filament has passed the bowdentube fitting.
But for only a pause function that is not necessary.
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This is what I downloaded.
Even more movement, experimenting and pioneering going on in the scannigworld than in 3D printers, so there might be more convenient/better solutions.
http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/kinectforwindowsdev/Downloads.aspx
I had a Xbox sensor around, so used that one. has no USB connection, so needed a separate adapter.
http://www.consolepro.nl/kinect-sensor-voeding-kabel-voor-xbox-360-p-791.html
There is a USB Kinect available (without separate adapter) and a better resolution, some googeling needed for the costs.
But be prepared for some pioneering with these kind off scanner's
.Object has to stand still, no reflections, a steady hand and keep track of the cable.
And you need something like meshmixer to clean up the messy Mesh files.
Play some with the expert-settings in cura to get it printed.
But a lot of fun for 100-200€
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Another addition, if possible, keep the motors locked, you have to be very careful not to move the printhead by accident.
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Some of my first tries, using a Xbox Kinect sensor, a 13€ usb adaptor to connect it to my laptop and a free download of windows Kinect sdk software.
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Hi,
with a standard .4mm nozzle, I can print good 0.3 shell thickness lines/walls.
In stl's walls have to be thicker than the in cura set shell thickness otherwise they will be skipped.
Circular or curved lines have to be somewhat thicker, because of the 'facets' {resolution) in the design.
for more detailed prints I use a 0.2 nozzle somewhere out of china I guess.
).
.. :unsure: Says Case de Lig(h)t
Release notes - online
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted