tsp42

@Polar: the AC fuses may fail earlier due to the alloy inside the fuse when used with DC(1) but it is better than they don't triggers when reaching the cutoff temperature. Some of the fuses are rated for both AC and DC and it looks like the max. amps increases(2) when going from 250VAC to 50VDC. 1) http://www.google.com/patents/EP1583125A1?cl=en 2) http://www.cci-tco.com/elcut-22-series-rohs-axial http://www.setfuse.com/product/over-temperature-protection/thermal-cutofftco/axial-shape/r-series.html

@Polar: From what I can see it is just a simple fuse where the conducting wire melts at the given cutoff temperature so it should work with DC.

@martin bienz: Kapton tape might do the trick for mounting as long as the glue fails after the fuse. Heating of the fuse would go to the heated bead so it is not wasted but it may lower the current going though the heated bed but I don't expect the resistance to be very high. The tricky part is to figure out what the cutoff temperature should be. Another question. My cheap Chinese 24V PSU only goes down to 22V with no load. Do you think that the voltage is lower when the load increases or should I use a step-down voltage converter for powering the ultimaker to be on the safe side.

What about a simple thermal fuse like: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/121274815507 ??

Ok, so the resistance will have to be placed on top of the fan. I'm wondering if a vacuum cleaner filter could be used.

@fns720: Have you tried to increase the air resistance e.g., by placing a filter in front of the fan to reduce the flow rate? It might do the trick for ABS

Would something like this do the trick from 24V to 19V? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-4-5-30V-step-down-to-DC-0-8-30V-Max-12A-laptop-car-BUCK-converter-WT-/161223409993

Does anyone know of an European reseller of the SilverStone FX121 Cross Flow fan or a similar fan in the same price range. I would really hate to have to pay an additional $52 for shipping+tax for a $26 fan.

The schematics for the relay is available here: http://www.fotek.com.hk/solid/SSR-3.htm it looks like you reversed the polarity on the output side. Also note the voldtage drop of 1.6 V. At 10A this means 16w of heat produced

Great Work! I'm very tempted to buy a E3D head. I assume you mean the Bowden attachment? Shouldn't it be possible to update the model to avoid interference with the linear bearings? Anyway I'm wondering if it would be posible to add dual extrusion support with the original ultimaker hot-end or maybe the PEEK will be too hot to be safely mounted in ABS.

Shouldn't it be possible to add a heat sink + isolation to the V2 hot-end? Although it may be necessary to cut a few mm of the PEEK to fit the heat-sink.

Hello all, I'm currently assembling my Ultimaker, however the drive nut on the Z-axis is not fixed very well. It appears like the laser cut holes are to wide. Not sure that to do other than use epoxy if it starts to cause trouble when I finish the machine (still waiting for a replacement for the brass pipe I broke...) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXp20DXWwOA&feature=youtu.be