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joergen

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    Ultimaker 2 (Ext
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    Ultimaker Original (+)

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  1. [UPDATE] "prehistoric" also refers to the state of the grease along the lead screw and the z nut. it was all caked up and dried and made the z stepper loose steps. removing it, a deep clean and some new high-quality oil solved the problem. Amazing to see a decade old UM still working great. ------------------- My (ancient) UM2 heated bed just gave up yesterday (separate topic), and I am trying to reactivate my (prehistoric) UMO, which i haven't used since I got the UM2 in 2015. A lot of the finessing and how to tweak gcode knowledge has been lost since then. Problem: i need to get something printed today... I got the GMO to home and heat up, and theoretically print again. home (0) is set to paper sheet thickness under the nozzle. I think the FW is a marlin flavor from 2014, but if there is a newer one, I can flash it (open to suggestions). I would prefer to not change the FW, because I am sure I tweaked a lot of parameters (dim, accel, pid etc) to a T for productions prints between 2011 and 2013) something is wrong in the starting gcode, and the UMO prints mid air (about 15mm above the print bed). I used the original start gcode I found in Cura5, and also tried to change it, but no luck. would appreciate some pointers how to fix the start and end gcode, as well as what settings/flavors i should change in cura5 (i.e. relative or absolute E? etc). it appears the line "G1 Z0 Y50 F9000 ;move the bed and the head" doesn't move the bed back to 0. Help please
  2. Hi Greg, yes, the last 10 years have taught me that the direction matters a great deal. one of the advantages of the hex comb infill is the independence of the infill from the orientation
  3. Greg, I did try the grid. I had gradual infill steps accidentally turned on, which screwed up the infill completely. without it, grid works nicely, thx for the hint
  4. never mind the 10 years of commercial 3D printing experience I have ever since I got my UM in 2011. As mentioned, other slicers (from the good old/defunct netfabb, to simplify3D (also abandoned) and others), hexcomb works great. I personally like a low infill for larger parts (20%) with a 1mm line width, and 35% with 0.6mm lines for smaller parts... as I said, it was a feature request, if there is no need for it in your opinion, you don't have to.
  5. Hi Cura team, Feature request: please implement a proper hex comb infill into cura (if it is already implemented, please let me know how and where to find it) Reason: hex comb infill is an old and very reliable infill for practical 3D prints that get used directly. within the hex comb parameters (in other slicers) one can create very strong parts with only 2 shells and a 20% infill. none of the current CURA infill options come close to the strength and reliability, as well as ease of printing, compared to the hex comb infill the lack of hex comb infill in CURA has been the main reason why I am still slicing with other slicers. I hope that hex comb is not plagued by some nasty intellectual property issues from i.e. the netfabb days, or because hex comb wasn't part of the original skeinforge code... the part i am printing today had a volume of 60x7mm and about 40mm tall, and all of cura infills (even when set to 65% infill) fail to produce a structurally valid infill. "cubic subdivision" came closest to create something meaningful, but the infill prints very bumpy, causing tons of vibrations.
  6. Hi UM community, I am sorry if this may look like spam, but it isn't. Some of you may remember, I am an UM user from the early days, printing a panoramic phone holder for Sony in 2011 on the Ultimaker 1. After the Sony project ended, I set my mind to building a better 360 video camera system, and all throughout 2012 we sold the 360 Rig, which was also printed on a by now heavily modified UM1 (http://freedom360.us/about/360rig/). This was the first fully spherical (no blind spot) video camera system in the world, and marked the transition making a UM 3D printed object a commercial success. This project then transitioned into the current Freedom360.us LLC, where the Ultimakers 1 and 2 are used to print prototypes and new product developments for the last 2 years. The actual products are mass printed via SLS/nylon. I would like to ask for your help: Chase (a US bank) is giving grants every year for small businesses, such as our Freedom360. To be considered for this grant, we need min 250 votes until October 17 as the first step. Winning this grant would help us a great deal to dedicate more time to R&D, more time developing new products and technologies, making it easier for everyone to produce new content for the next revolution in VR. Please visit https://www.missionmainstreetgrants.com/business/detail/54409 and click on the vote button on the page that pops up. We need min 250 votes until October 17, 2014, every vote worldwide counts. (FB account link is necessary to vote, and Chase won't post to your time line, and you can disconnect from it next week again). Please share the link with your friends and colleagues and make them click on the vote button. Thank you thank you thank you for your help and consideration.
  7. keep in mind that not only do you need the machine (which eats a lot of electrical power, because the chamber and steel powder need to be brought near critical temp), but you also need special clean room environment, the stainless steel powder is one of the unhealthiest things you can get into your lungs (carbon fiber particles are the worst). great technology, saw it last year.
  8. I'm up in Astoria... we can do a meetup late Spring, before Summer in NYC gets us to the Tg of PLA
  9. Makerbot doesn't sell 3mm filament anymore, only 1.75mm ABS for a more comprehensive list, have a look at http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Buyers'_Guide#Filament
  10. good to know, i have a piece of garolite coming in today from mcmaster (i had to order other stuff anyway). I'll print the first prototype in ABS, and if I have time, I do another one in Nylon, either on garolite, or bluetape or MDF. thanks so much for the tips.
  11. Does anybody have a place where to buy a sheet of garolite in NYC? I need to print some nylon on Saturday (april 5, 2014)
  12. 140C nozzle? ABS has a min temp of 240C usually (natural ABS without pigments), and up to 260-270C for black ABS. printing hotter will make better layer bonds, printing lower than 240C will result in underextrusion, if you even get anything meaningful out of the nozzle to begin with.
  13. I also find the "pay now, we'll ship it later" policy strange and unusual... it was suitable and acceptable for the beginnings of Ultimaker, but by now a "pay before shipping" policy should be in place. I don't think UM will ever be facing a warehouse full of unpaid printers... the machine is too awesome, and there will be always a line around the block for any printer that becomes available earlier than expected. amazon merchant services have a simple functionality: capture the payment when the merchant is ready to ship (via CC), so you know you have the money when the box leaves the warehouse. paypal on the other hand isn't capable of doing that, even when you send out paypal invoices, which cause more work, and are more bureaucratic. maybe it's time do make paypal a secondary payment option (where people always know its 'pay first, ship later') and find a proper payment gateway for the bulk of the orders. to handle the problem with failed payments, simply put a 3-5 day hold on the order, to give the customer a chance to clean up the financial mess and then capture the payment. after 5 days of no emails or reply from the customer, the order goes back to 'on hold' or 'canceled', and the machine gets assigned to the next order that needs one. that way you should never have too many machines sitting around doing nothing. or get to a point in production where everything is running smoothly, and you simply ship the same or next day, like we do in our company. hopefully UM gets there this year :-) joergen f360.us
  14. Look for Calin's excellent posts (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/908-calinb/) about Nylon and ABS in this forum
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