nick-foley
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Posts posted by nick-foley
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My first guess is that Solidworks would be saving with the origin as the centroid of the exported portion of the model.
Try creating a reference coordinate system in SW and using that when exporting your STLs?
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Current favorite is Gizmodorks. Diameter is consistent, thermal properties are nice, shipping is free using Amazon Prime or their website, cost is low. Best of all, the aesthetic quality of the prints is very high - I have gone through several rolls of the Grey for very clean, professional parts, and several rolls of the Pink Rose for a bold color that almost matches ABS for a blemish-concealing satin surface finish The thermochromic filaments are super cool as well.
Protoparadigm PLA just re-launched their offering using homespun filament, which looks interesting and I will probably try out at some point soon. Their quality was previously very good.
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Am I crazy or do you keep saying polypropylene?
What is the other material you're using?
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Awesome test, I was looking for some of this data last night for a part I'm trying to make. What brand PLA were you using?
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A quick fix would be to push the wire back into the crimp (the curled piece of metal you see inside the white plastic housing) and use hot glue (or any thick-ish glue, possibly also tape if you are crafty) to glue both wires together and to the white connector. This might sound ghetto, but it realistically should work fine if the glue is applied well and the wire is inserted fully before gluing.
Longer term solutions would be finding the correct Molex connector, crimp pins, and crimping tool, as suggested... But as someone who deals with crimped wires regularly, I would avoid adding that unpleasant experience to your life unless absolutely necessary.
In your position, as a short term fix, I would glue the connector into place while the wire is making solid electrical contact, and ask UM support to send you a replacement fan as the long term solution.
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That is super cool!
Those blades look like they're decently priced too, very hard edge. I had a spyderco with a ZDP 189 steel and that thing was razor sharp! very difficult to sharpen though, do you find the same with that knife?
The carbon steel version with the differential heat treatment is indeed extremely hard. It is a great knife for many tasks, takes an amazing edge, though when you drop it, you can guarantee a chip somewhere. Sharpening wasn't so bad because I use 3M Microfilm, which cuts through even supersteels fast enough to make it an enjoyable experience.
I've now switched to the stainless steel version of the blade, though, because even with a good sheath, (a printed design I've been meaning to post) an EDC knife gets too much sweat on it to genuinely last the way you want it to with a high carbon blade. Cutting food at an impromptu picnic with a blade that is blackened from your body moisture isn't very appealing, and having to sharpen the knife after an extremely sweaty bike ride because the salt took the edge off is less than great. The stainless versions are a medium-high grade stainless and work just as well, with only slightly less of the cool factor and amazing (non-sweaty) edge holding that a 63HRc blade has.
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https://www.youmagine.com/designs/urban-puukko
Since I designed and printed this, I have carried and used it every single day for more than a year. I've been using knives as a tool for 20+ years and I've never had one that I loved more or worked better than this design.
Like Valcrow, I've also designed and printed a lot of camera-related gear which has been extremely functional and often beautiful.
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Replace the Z max endstop with the sensor. You'll have to find a pinout for your sensor to know which wire goes where.
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Ringing is from acceleration settings being too high in firmware. I would lower those to 3000 if they are not already there.
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I have heard somewhere that one reason people don't use copper for hotends is that molten PLA sticks to it to a much greater degree than brass. But that might just be FUD. Interested to see how this turns out.
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Machine - > Machine Settings:
Bed Area Shape = Circular
Machine Center 0,0 = Checked
Done.
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Should be super simple... I've never done it but isn't it basically sending coordinates over serial? I would poke around the source code of printrun/printcore for a starting point.
Google also turned up this:
http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/GCtrl
Which is super rudimentary, but again, I believe we are just sending coordinates over serial... so the meaty bit of that code is:
port.write(gcode + '\n');
Where gcode is swappable for any GCode command you're interested in sending.
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Working on a https://18264080209174115072.googlegroups.com/attach/6a4574f0988edd18/DSC02438-1.jpg?part=0.1&view=1&vt=ANaJVrEbXUNc8VFLcAfkLj_zGRREZjMTBzC7YF6kU1wFt9X3SzQ7kmMM2eNhP3tEY_KaDZMlahmku-rsCGQ8Pzyxc70LtCH4tlAF7vNXv0c51HBMYNdYtlg, where bed probing is much more valuable. There are some long threads about this being done very successfully on the Delta Robot 3D Printers Google Group. Been thinking of adding it to a UM1 but haven't got around to it yet.
Few notes to add:
- There are very tiny 4mm and 6mm probes out there, but their sensing distance is even thinner. I have one on order and will be testing it in the next few weeks
- Sensing distance on an aluminum plate (like a heated bed) will only be around 0.4x the rated distance of the sensor. Use either steel or aluminum foil to achieve the full sensing distance of the sensor. This is due to the way the inductive sensor detects eddy currents in the metal it is sensing.
- On the Delta forums, there are several versions of Marlin which have various bed-probing algorithms built in. I am successfully using the one from Brad H which probes the bed 7 times in each location and takes the median value from the set. Repeatability with the probe I'm using is around 0.02mm, which seems similar to your data. From researching inductive probes, it seems like repeatability is generally given as 5% of sensing distance.... so there is a possibility that using a closer probe (ie 2mm or 1.5mm sense distance) will give better repeatability.
(Also, if you read https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/deltabot/NTZUGcTKxxI, near the end, you can see some photos of the inside of a 12mm probe. I wanted to see how much smaller I could make it...)
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I hope they are successful and I like their filaments, but I agree about the colors. Taulman seems to have this strange obsession with optical clarity, when what generally makes parts look professional and finished is a clean, opaque color. Maybe someday there will be big applications for optically clear FDM materials, but right now I think they are way overserving that niche.
Are they patenting any of this stuff? (Maybe they are just trying to lock down as much IP as they can before some of the bigger companies get to it...?)
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Yeah, in general, seems like a pretty easy print. I would print it without any support, the way you first showed it, but give more cooling during those first layers. Maybe use a desktop fan to aggressively cool them if you aren't willing to have any surface imperfections there.
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UM + UM2 actual speeds are very close to what you set them, due to the high accelerations settings. Other printers never actually hit the speeds they state, because the acceleration settings prevent it from ever hitting top speed on any sort of detailed print.
In order to do any proper side-by-side comparison, the only variable which can be held constant across printers is print time - otherwise you are going to have incomparable results. IE, for every printer, you should tune the settings until the actual print time is equivalent.
That being said, it looks like you've got way bigger problems with your settings than print speed... too much heat or a wildly incorrect filament diameter.
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Should not present any problems.
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These are likely created using the Weaverbird for Grasshopper. Or at least they would be easy to create using that plugin. Been using it for some similar work lately that I've been meaning to post here.
Anyway, have fun generating support material for such prints! Meshmixer is the only way.
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After spending more time trying to slice very long prints, it seems that my previous "fix" was incorrect.
What seems to be happening is that after successfully slicing 50ish hours of printing a few times, cura stops being able to finish slicing that job again until cura is closed and restarted.
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Rhino -> MeshToNurbs command -> save as whatever format you want.
If your mesh was manifold, it will turn into a fairly clean nurbs surface, though it will probably be a large file because each mesh face will be a nurbs plane. If your mesh was manifold and closed, it will be a nurbs solid. Rhino warns if you are using a mesh larger than 20000 faces. I have gone larger, and it works, but for many things, a mesh reduced to around 20000 faces is more than adequate anyway.
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For some reason, changing "Cut off object bottom" from 0 to 0.5 has enabled the slicing to complete, even though my print was only 180mm tall...
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Trying to slice for some lengthy prints and can't get Cura to complete. Progress bar hangs around 70% and task manager shows that curaengine.exe and Cura have both stopped using any CPU. Have left it to sit for a few hours a couple of times now and it hasn't finished slicing.
STL file is relatively small in data size (5mb) but fills the build volume, so the sliced job is going to be around 50 or 60 hours I expect.. .
Using Cura 14.07, Windows 7 64bit. No plugins. Has anyone else had this problem before, and if so, what was necessary to get the slicing to complete?
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With that much stringing and blobbing I would think you could get away with dropping the temp by 10 degrees which should help with overhangs...
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Looks like the client print was done with thicker layers, which can sometimes improve overhang quality. Also, overhangs generally come out better when printing slower and cooler. That makerbot print was probably done around 20-30mm/s in UM terms. About support though:
- Meshmixer is useful for generating support, a kind that is good in the case of your character but probably not too useful for the ring shape...
- Cura support works better when set to "Grid". My favorite settings for clean prints are 27% support density, 0.95 XY offset, 0.15 Z offset.
Does it matter where i order filament from?
in Coffee corner
Posted
Amazon Gizmodorks is cheap and is currently my favorite, with print quality that matches or exceeds many of the $40-50/kg suppliers.