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  1. I have the R17 version. I really ran out of possible improvements to make the machine work. I think it's a temperature issue, but I don't have the right equipment to calibrate it.
  2. I actually do not think that the E3D hotend is the problem, because I use them on 10 other machine, where they work absolutely fine with higher extrusion rates. Also, printing PLA on an all metal hotend can be improved by seasoning the filament with a tiny wipe of vegetable oil. I think it has something to do with the temperatures on the sigma, which probably are not displayed correctly. Higher temperatures print way better on my sigma.
  3. Nope sadly not. I have heavily modified the machine to try and make it work reliable. I added UMO style extruders with hobb goblin drivegears, E3D hotends with silicone socks, better hotend carriages with improved airflow, but sadly nothing helps and I'm out of ideas.
  4. @chrisvp Where did you get the GS power supply? I have exactly the same problem, received a new GST power supply but the problem still persists.
  5. Hi All, One of my older type UMOs with heated bed upgrade has shown some temperature issues. When it was printing, the room started to smell like very hot PLA, you know, that semi sweet caramel-ish odour. Well, things turned out to be the hotend overheating while printing. It started of printing normally, but after a few minutes, the filament got so hot that it ruined the print. So I tried this a few more times and the same thing happened. I shut down the printer and got to bed. The next day I wanted to test if the printer also went overheated when I only heat up the hotend, but to my surpris
  6. Hi guys, I noticed something lately. I have 3 old UMOs with the thermocouple board on the printhead, the other 4 UMO+s have the sensor (PT100?) attached directly to the main board. When I print the same gcode file on both types of printers, I get different results. The UMO prints Colorfabb PLA/PHA at 220ºC without stringing and with a smooth but matte top layer. The UMO+ prints with same settings, but there is significantly more stringing and blobs. Also the top layer is a lot more shiny. When I lower the temperature manually to around 200-205, the prints look a lot more like the older UMOs
  7. Hi All, I've got two new UMO+ machines and assembled them last week. When I try to make a print, it looks like there is slack in the belts, because circles have flat sides on them. But after tightening the belts (which were already tight enough) I found out that the problem lies somewhere else. One of the X-axis rods (the one on the front) is forcing itself out of the machine when it is rotating. Because of this pushing force, one of the endcaps that keep the rods in place is grinding away. Apparently it also creates so much friction that the print quality is greatly influenced by this effe
  8. Fellow makers, I produce parts that have to be pretty much identical each time. I make about 600-1000 of these parts each week. But I constantly run into a first layer extrusion problem. The problem occurs on all my UMO+ machines (5 of them) What happens is: the first layer is either to high causing under-extrusion and sticking issues, or to low causing over-extrusion and material smearing issues. It varies between each print run. So on the same machine, the first layer on the printrun 1 can be too high, but the first layer on printrun 2 can be to low. It happens with the identical gcode, as
  9. Thanks for your input, but I checked this already. The bed actually is very flat and the first layer always prints great. But the underextrusion problem keeps happening in the entire print after that. A varying Z-height can be visible in the first few layers but dampens out and disappears when you print taller parts.
  10. Hi fellow makers, I have a BCN3D Sigma for more than a month now and using Cura and S3D with it. But somehow I can't get a nice and smooth infill. The infill seems to have underextrusion at random places, but it also isn't random at the same time. Every time I try to print a simple calibration cilinder with 100% infill, there are little open spaces between the infill (see picture). The weirdest thing about it is that the underextrusion happens on the same place when I print the same gcode multiple times, BUT I also get the same gcode to be printed out fine sometimes. I have tried every sett
  11. Hmm that sucks. That is actually exactly what happens with the small fans, they start vibrating. But at certain 'random' PWM values they do spin though. It still doesn't explain why two out of six 25mm 12V fans from one same batch do work perfectly fine, tested on each printer. I pulled apart three fans. One not functioning 25mm, one properly functioning 40mm fan and one properly functioning UMO+ 50mm fan. The only potential difference I can find is the Hall sensors that have been used inside the fan's "circuit boards". The small not working fan has a 276 sensor, the 40mm has a 277 and the ul
  12. @amedee Thanks for your reply. Today I received 24v GDT 25x25mm fans. But: these also cannot be controlled properly on the umo+ machines. They start jiggling for a second (and stall afterwards) at PWM 50~200 and rotate at full speed above that. While other 24V and 12V fans that I have, do run properly at a PWM >50. Tested on all my machines. The weird thing is that the two GDT 12V fans on the first upgraded machine (UMO A, as in first post) are functioning very well. They are switched in parallel. These are exactly the same GDT fans as the 'non functioning properly' ones, also from the s
  13. I thought the output was 12V, because the standard fan is 12V as well.. Is it a better idea to use 24V fans on those machines then? Or will the airflow drop significantly?
  14. Hello, I have modified my UMOs with an E3D hotend setup with three fans. One 30x30mm fan for cooling the upper part of the hotend, and two 25x25mm fans for cooling the 3D prints, creating a crossflow. I'm running into a weird issue from the fans that I can't seem to solve by myself. I bought a total of 4 25x25mm 12V GDT labeled cooling fans from ebay a while ago. Two are installed on one UMO (lets call it UMO A), those work great. The fans can be PWM controlled all the way down to 30. But, two 25mm fans front the same batch, installed on the other UMO (UMO B), only work at around full PWM,
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