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@neotko Seems like a possible solution. When did you order/receive your UMO+? If really this is the problem, I may expect from Ultimaker to ship me a quality Z-nut instead of me buying a Z nut from a third party, right..? Those bed upgrades cost €300 so I expect quality parts.

Hi fellow 3D print enthousiasts, Normally when one of my printers starts to have issues, I'm skilled enough to fix it by myself. But lately I'm starting to have issues on two printers and can't seem to find the cause and fix it. I really hope someone can help me because those printers are very important in my business. I will explain everything in a listed way to create a better overview of the situation. Let me first explain the current situation: • I have four 3D printers. Three UMOs (which are later upgraded with the heated bed from Ultimaker), and one Lulzbot Taz5. • One of the Ultimakers is 2,5 years old, the others are 1 year old. • One of the 1 year old Ultimakers received a heated bed upgrade about 10 months ago, so when the machine was 2 months old. • The other 1 year old and 2,5 year old Ultimakers received their heated bed upgrade about 1,5 months ago, these are the two printers with problems. The problems started after the heated bed upgrades, but I can't remember the exact time it happened for the first time. From now on I will call them the 'problem printers'. • The first printer where I applied the heated bed upgrade to (10 months ago) doesn't have this issue. • Both problem printers do have an 0.8mm E3D nozzle (not the hot-end, only the nozzle!), which always worked perfect. They are both printing the same product all day every day. Let me now explain what seems to happen on both problem printers: • Those printers are printing the same part all day long. On each build plate fits twelve of those identical parts. • Most parts come out of the printer like they should, but sometimes (and it looks like it gradually gets worse) a part has one or a few layers of under-extrusion. • Sometimes it looks like there is a layer of over-extrusion going in front of the under-extrusion layer, but I'm not completely sure about that. • The under-extrusion layer is often very weak and can be pulled apart very easily, but sometimes there only seems to be a little inward and/or outward dent all around the part. • As you can see in the pictures, the problem doesn't occur on the same height every time every time. Although it looks like the orange and pink part do have the issue on the same height, the orange part is the sixth out of twelve and the pink is fourth out of twelve parts. Both printed on different printers and running the identical gcode. • I can run the identical gcode file again and there is a possibility that there is no issue at all, or the issue is on a complete different spot. • It also has happened that the problem occurred on the same height on multiple parts in the same print run. • I also found out that pushing down the build platform works, but on the lowest 4-6cm the build platform goes from quite smooth to an almost jam. • Settings of the file which always worked: 55mm/s, 220Celsius, 0,15mm layer height. Material is colorfabb pla/pha. Printed with the 1 year old printer: Printed with the 2,5 years old printer: Because the problem is so extremely inconsistent, it is very hard to tell if a possible solution works. What I already tried to do to fix it is: • Slower printing, down to 30% speed. No effect • Higher temp, I tried up to 235C. The prints got very ugly due to this high temp, so I didn't test this for very long and thus don't know for sure if this had any effect. • Cleaned the Z rods and bearings with a cloth and some solvent. Looked like this worked for a short while. But the problem re-occurred. This solved the jam on the bottom few centimeters of the build platform. • Tried lubricating the rods and linear bearings again with. No effect. • Tried lubricating the Z screw and rotating Z axis with magnalube. No effect • Checked the PTFE couplings with calipers on both printers. No weird deformation measurable or visible. Both teflon couplers are a few months old. Exact operation time is unknown. • Atomic pulls, no debris found and filament comes out nicely 'nozzle shaped'. • Fresh and clean E3D 0.8mm nozzles. Tightened to the hot-end at 200C without any filament in it (after atomic pull). No effect. Also a thing that is important to mention: the linear bearings seem to stick/lag or whatever it is called, when I move them up and down the rods slowly. I tried this on all four bearings and rods (both printers) by disassembling it from the printer. When I move the bearings up and down fast, this sticking effect doesn't seem to happen. This effect is also mentionable on the good working Ultimaker. Another thing I want to mention is that the Leadscrew on the Z axis of both problem printers has some play when I push up the platform a bit. This play is about 0.5 - 0.8 mm-ish, I can't really measure it. The good working Ultimaker with the oldest heated bed upgrade has a lot less play, 0.1 mm at most. Alright, I hope someone can help me with this problems, because I'm getting frustrated and out of possible options to fix this problems. Thanks.

Solved, Thanks! I indeed had to replace te broken bd679.

Hi Guys, I Have a very serious problem here. One of my ultimakers one just stopped working randomly. After I disconnected and reconnected the power cord, the printer works again, BUT, the print-head fan is now constantly spinning at maximum speed, I can't control the speed anymore and it turns on at full speed right after I flip the printer's master switch. Can someone help me with this problem?

Problem solved. Tensioning the X AND Y motor helped. The undertension of both created some kind of repeating pattern of lines not touching and lines overlapping each other.

Hi Guys, I Have my new heated bed for UMO installed and working. I also installed a 0,8mm e3d nozzle in the original UMO hot end. The rest of the setup is standard. Now I'm getting some kind of underextrusion problems with prints. But I can't find out what it is. The underextrusion seems to occur on the same places when I print the model multiple times. The filament color doesn't seem to be the problem either (Colorfabb PLA/PHA) *Link removed* Does someone have any idea what the problem could be? Thanks

Well, I have the same problem on al three of my UMO's! Printing colorfabb's glow in the dark with 1.0mm nozzles for 3 days non stop made the nozzles wear out very very very fast. From a sharpish point to a quite flat nozzle. I searched google for 'worn out nozzle ultimaker' and this was the first topic I clicked on. I think glow in the dark definitely has something to do with it. More people having this problem with glowfill?

Nobody?

Hi guys, It seems to be impossible to find the maximum power output at the fan port on an Ultimaker One. I want to install a second fan on the opposit side of the first one. The standard fan seems to be 1.2 Watts, so I suppose one extra fan shouldn't do much harm. But first I want to make sure. Thanks in advance!

Hey Guys, Is there anyone who knows if there is a cura plugin that overrides the infill percentage at/between a selected Z height? Because I couldn't find it. I'm working on a project where some layers of some parts have to be at high infill percentages, but when I set the infill at the desired percentage, the material wasting will be enormous so this is not an option. Sven

Hello people, After I finished my project for the dual extruder with single nozzle, I wan't to do a little research about the layer bonding of 3D printing materials. As we already know: 3d printed parts are always stronger along the grain than between layers. The positioning of a 3D printed part is very important for the strength of that part. Sometimes there is a need for a part that has maximum strength in more directions than only te x-y directions. But that's very hard to achieve. I Have experienced that colorfabb Xt is way stronger between layers (printed @245 °C) than standard PLA (@210-220°C). But since I find Xt ugly when printed, I want to achieve beter results with standard PLA. My idea was to cure 3D printed parts inside an oven at an X-temperature to get beter cross layer bonding. In the metallurgy this is called annealing (Dutch:Gloeien) Is there someone who already tried to test this idea with plastic parts?

Hello everyone, I am working a lot with gcodes lately because of a very special dual extruder I am developing . Everytime when I manually want to adjust some gcodes for this dual, I experience those gigantic amounts of gcode. Why is it that we use stl files instead of step files? Stepfiles use vectors instead of 3 dimensional 'pixels' so the stepfiles are smaller in size (there is no resolution), contain better information and are still adjustable in software like solidworks and inventor. Another thing is that stepfiles use radii. In the world of cnc milling we use the gcodes G02 and G03 to indicate an arc with a specified radius. I think if we use this in 3d printing gcodes, the gcodes will get smaller in size and it is more clearly to make manual adjustments to it. Perhaps this is a kick in the right direction, or maybe it's complete nonsense, but I wanted to say it anyway. I also found out Cura doesn't support G02 and G03, obvious, because there are no arcs in an stl file. Maybe an idea for the next cura?

I also mentioned this problem for myself. I found out that you can also save the assembly as a part. Then you can open the part and combine the bodies and save it as an .stl file.

I want to try something that I can't find on the internet and this forum. We all know that ABS printing requires an heated bed or so (I don't have one), but what if I put down some layers of PLA for the -sticking tot the bed- part, and go on printing with ABS upon the first PLA layers. I was thinking to do this manually, like inserting a piece of PLA into the extruder, and right after that insert the ABS filament. While printing, I manually tune up the temperature of course. Someone tried this before? Does it work? Or will it ruin the print(er)?

On projects with retraction like phone cases, I lower the temperature to about 200 degrees. I normaly use between 210 and 220 because (I always think) it makes stronger prints. Is there some kind of a golden rule for retraction speeds and distances? Or does it vary a lot with the material that is used?

Hello people, I'm using my ultimaker for quitte a while now, but i've expected some issues with retraction. Retraction allways happens on the outsides of a layer (I think), but retraction takes a moment to happen. So when te retraction takes place, the hot end stays still for a while creating a little blob on the outside of the layer. This is very ugly when you create stuff like iphone cases and so on. Is it possible to let the retraction happen somewhere on the infill of a layer? And create a better print this way? Or is this already tested without good results..? Grtz, Sven