jonnybischof
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Posts posted by jonnybischof
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As long as you can prove that your actions can't trigger a fire, then imho you can do something like proposed above. (Emphasis: That is my opinion, I'm no expert on safety standards and regulations, though I'm frequently working with stuff like that I can't answer to all the details without checking back first...)
If you calculate (and/or measure) your maximum heating power and some approximation of the thermal resistance / thermal capacitance, then you can predict pretty accurately how long it would take for the heater to reach a temperature that may cause any risks. Put in a large enough safety margin and you should still get a few seconds where you can safely turn on the heater without knowing anything about it's temperature beforehand.
But in the end, it's up to the manufacturer to decide about how safe he wants to be and whether to make any compromise or not. You definetly don't wanna have to take responsibility if some customer burns his house down (for whatever reason), so you definetly have to be sure about what you're doing and what all the possible consequences may be.
I don't see any problems with the "heat for some seconds without knowing the temperature first" idea, but I didn't take much time and consider every possible effect this may have.
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While I am a fan of the Ultimaker 1 design - I do think an easier way is needed to clear all these frequent nozzle blockages.
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If your nozzle gets clogged frequently, then you're doing something wrong...
I've never had a clogged nozzle before, though I've only printed a few kilograms of PLA so far, no ABS and no low-quality stuff.
Very nice guide though! I hope I'll never have to use it - but when the time comes, I'll know what to do
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Shouldn't be a problem as long as it doesn't break when you straighten it a little...
And I guess you should not just put the spool in the 3Doodler but instead cut the spool into sticks and use them like the original material they supply...
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You can use any 12V computer fan. But as far as I can remember, the UM uses only 2-Pin connections (V+ and GND).
Computer fans usually have 3 wires (V+, GND, and tach signal).
(source: overclock.net)
In case the link doesn't work: http://cdn.overclock.net/1/1f/1fe7802a_cpufanpinoutlabeled.jpeg
(one of the first hits on google anyways)
Typically you'll have a black (GND) and a red (V+, always the middle one) cable, and the third cable is any other color (tach).
You only need to connect V+ and GND. The tach signal can be left unconnected. You should be able to plug the 3-Pin connector into the 2-Pin socket of the UM (no confirmation though, don't have time to look right now), just need to get the right pins.
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I just think PLA is hugely preferrable to ABS because ABS stinks and gives me a headache within minutes.
With the Doodler you can't just shut the device away and air the room when it's done, you have to be close to the extruder all the time...
I think PLA should work fine for 3D objects, as it usually solidifies quickly when I tinker with it on the printer. But I guess I'll see it when it gets here with 50 strands of PLA of unspecified color and quality
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There are numerous brackets for standard axial fans on thingiverse. I'd recommend putting the printer on some feet or vibration dampeners to increase the fans' ground clearance. Axial fans need much more clearance in front of them than radial fans in order to get a good airflow going.
Or you could of course take some DC motor and print a radial fan for it. I thought about that but haven't gotten around to do it yet - too much other stuff waiting in the line.
If you've ever analysed the fans in a PC case and noticed the front fan isn't actually making much more than just a lot of noise - it's the same thing...
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Did I get that right: The 3Doodler does NOT have a temperature control except for a switch between ABS (240° I guess) and PLA (temp?)?
So, there could indeed be a problem that it is not suitable for "just about any PLA laying around"?
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Hi community!
I've just preordered a 3Doodler (after I saw Illuminarti's picture in the "post your last print" section) and am now wondering if there's more people here who already have one or want to get one.
I wonder about a few things, such as "why do they recommend ABS instead of PLA?" and "What can you do with it?"...
Any experiences with the device so far?
I wonder if you can do stuff like "welding printed parts together" just like it's done with steel parts (like a bicycle frame). Actually, the welding scars on bicycle frames can look pretty cool, so if it's possible to transfer the same thing to 3D printed parts it might give some interesting optical properties. And I think it's just fun to do it
Also, the 3Doodler might be a good option to get differently colored ornaments or stuff like texts on regular 3D printed parts. Should work fine? Any experiences?
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Skirt is activated by default if you choose "none" for platform adhesion type. Check the layers view and you'll see it
Also, there is an intelligent feature for defining the Skirt properties in the Expert Settings: Set the amount of lines to 1 AND the minimal length to about 300mm (my choice - choose whatever you find suitable). This automatically makes multiple skirt lines for smaller models and only one line for large models.
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I think the Basalt bed is actually a simple floor tile. It's a massive piece of Basalt, 203x203x10 mm large. The top is polished and seems very flat, although it's not as smooth as glass but has "pores". I'd say that's a good thing for making the parts stick better. If you have a granite dinner table or kitchen work plate, that's pretty much the same surface.
The other sides are just roughly cut and ground, but very straight and the angles are perfect 90°s.
All in all, it really looks like a standard outdoor floor tile which also makes sense - why reinvent the wheel?
If you think about drilling holes into the basalt plate, you have to know what you're doing. I don't think that can be done without any special tools. I plan on just seating the plate on top of four screws (for minimal surface area where I don't want to transfer heat) and clamping it down with some metal parts.
I'll post some pictures and drawings as soon as I get to it - no progress since last time I'm afraid :(
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Hi R4ix
I've assembled the bed and created a holder for it, but it's still laying around and I haven't gotten around to doing the final assembly :(
However, I've contacted another user who already has installed a Basalt HBP from qu-bd on his Ultimaker.
He said that the Ultimaker takes the weight without any problems.
I'm planning on printing directly on the Basalt bed, but haven't tried it yet as it's not yet installed correctly. It should work (qu-bd claims so), but I have yet to try it myself...
I should be able to finally put the thing together over the christmas holidays, but until then I probably won't have enough time.. :(
/edit:
I will post a detailed report as soon as I'm finished with the assembly and have tested it!
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Stop using IE
I don't know why, but it just seems to keep sucking no matter how many new versions they make of it...
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The first part of the stepper to take damage would probably be the magnet. Depending on the type used, the maximum safe temperature can be as low as 80°C. Above that, the magnet loses (at least part of) it's magnetisation.
It would make a lot of sense to take a magnet which can take more than 80°C for a stepper motor, but I don't know any details about that. Probably also depends on the quality of the motor.
For 50, 60 or even 70°C motor temperature, there shouldn't be any issues with the motor. Bearings and oil should be able to take that, too as friction induced heat is common.
Note however that the motor itself gets hot. If it is put into a hot climate (heated chamber) it will get even hotter. So if you have 50°C inside the heated chamber, your motor will be hotter than that.
There should be a datasheet for the motor stating the maximum recommended operating temperature. Knowing that would simplify everything...
I will definetly swap my motors to the outside of the printer, and I'd recommend that to anyone who wants to make a heated chamber. Just to be safe and sound.
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I'd love to see this crosslinked to YM. Like when you for example explain bridging and use a model that you print in the video, then you can download the thing on YM.
You could also host the model yourself, but then it's not on YM O.O
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Effektiv wichtig ist die Toleranz des Durchmessers, die muss bei +-0.05mm liegen. Wenn du dann zwischen 3.00mm und 2.85mm wählen kannst, dann auf jeden Fall 2.85, weil du dann mehr Kunden hast. Ich z.B. werde keine Veränderungen an meinem Bowden-Aufbau machen, solange es passendes 2.85er Filament gibt...
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I like the Swiss national emblem
Well done!
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I'm in! I'm a total newb to 3D-Design but it'll be fun nonetheless
/edit: Oh, and I really like the idea of the prizes! You're a great guy for doing something like this!!
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Okay, it seems they did make the UM2 compliant. My bad!
I didn't find any information about this on the internet (maybe because this information is not supposed to be freely available anyways) but there are different classes and different types of CE compliance.
I guess our product being safety-relevant (lone-worker protection safety system) has much higher requirements.
Anyways, I thought basic ESD protection was always necessary, but it seems it's not. It'd still be beneficiary to the UM, regardless of CE certification.
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I often use a dremel with either sanding buffs for wide area clean up, and engraving tips for cleaning up hard to reach spots. As others have noted, temperature management is a problem - it's too easy to melt the plastic. I've also thought that some sort of small-scale sand-blasting tool would be ideal for cleaning up prints.
Nice to see someone else also likes the idea
I was actually more serious about this than it sounded... I'd really like to have my own sandblasting tool.
...
Just googled around and it seems there actually are handheld sandblasters on the market. I've never seen one in an actual store though and I'm not very confident about buying from Ebay..
Make a Dremel Sandblaster!
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I normally use a scalpel for post-processing. Usually that means scratching off the Brim / support material and other irregularities. I also clip / trim any edges with the blade. That doesn't really lead to good results, but it's fast.
There is a way of "chemical post-processing" by means of putting the printed object into a bath of a suitable solvent to abrade any small and thin irregularity. But I never tried that and I don't know any more details about this, except that there is some thread here in the forums about this topic.
Maybe you could develop a low power sand-blasting Dremel (with glass pearls but I don't know how that's called in english), I would definetly buy one
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Grundsätzlich dürfte es den UM reichlich wenig interessieren, was für ein Material er verarbeitet. So lange es sich halt verarbeiten lässt.
Wenn es ein Material gibt, was sich besser oder gleich gut verarbeiten lässt wie PLA / ABS, und in anderer Hinsicht (z.B. Preis) auch besser ist, dann immer her damit
/edit: Ach ja, man hört öfters von elektrisch leitfähigem Material. Das wäre natürlich super, allerdings lohnt es sich nur für wirklich niederohmiges Material, sprich ähnlich wie Metall. Dissipatives Material (einige Kiloohm pro cm) gibt es bereits, damit können aber die Wenigsten was anfangen.
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Did it occur only on the outer edges? Because if you didn't watch the print it may well be that there are more errors but inside the print where they are not visible...
And the possibility of SD card filesystem errors remains. Did you check that?
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Das wichtigste is wohl, wie gr5 schon gesagt hat, der Durchmesser. Ideal ist 2.85mm +- so wenig wie möglich (z.B. 0.05mm).
Dann kommt für mich als nächstes die Stabilität: Die Lagen müssen gut aneinander haften, man darf das Objekt nicht an den Lagen auseinanderreissen können. Ausserdem sollte das Material hart sein, und nicht die "getrockneter Kaugummi"-Konsistenz haben wie das Premium PLA90 von Orbi-tech. Das Zeug ist effektiv unbrauchbar für die meisten Nutzteile...
Dann wäre eine wichtige Eigenschaft, dass das Material bei "idealen" Druckbedingungen nicht bereits so weich wird, dass es in sich zusammen schmilzt, wenn man kleine Objekte druckt (z.B. Spitze einer Pyramide). Das Problem habe ich beispielsweise beim Faberdashery Filament.
Und dann sollte das Material bei ca. 50°C noch nicht weich werden. Evtl. 60°C, aber das dürfte bereits sehr schwer
unter einen Hut zu kriegen sein.
Ausserdem noch so ein paar Sachen:
Es sollte beim Drucken nicht stinken - die meisten Leute drucken in ihren Wohnungen, und Drucke können viele Stunden dauern.
Es darf natürlich keine giftigen Dämpfe verursachen, weil die wenigsten Leute mit sowas korrekt umgehen.
Es muss lagerfähig sein. Das Filament darf nicht auf der Spule wegbröckeln, wenn es einmal über längere Zeit etwas trockener gelagert wurde und wieder feuchter wird (oder umgekehrt)...
/edit:
Um alles zusammen zu fassen:
Ich würde ein Filament von dir kaufen, das vor allem gute mechanische Eigenschaften hat und sich als Nutzteil gebrauchen lässt. Sprich z.B. ein Hebel, ein Kugellager oder irgendwelche Türgriffe oder sonstwie belastbare Teile.
Farbe ist eher nebensächlich. Normalerweise braucht man buntes Filament für Kunstobjekte - dafür ist die Auswahl schon sehr gross.
Ideal wäre schwarz, weiss oder farblos.
Meine momentane Referenz (habe noch nicht allzu viele Materialien getestet) ist das "Raven Super Premium PLA" von qu-bd.com.
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I think the term "sewing machine oil" comes from german, where it is common. I don't think this is a common term in english but I'm no native english speaker...
Sewing machine oil is actually common "general purpose oil" (correct english term: mineral oil). It's almost colorless, odorless and very liquid. When put on the UM, it can have a brownish tint and will over time create brown rings near the end of the axes like swordriff already said.
I bought mine in the DIY store, car department. It says "univeral oil for lubrication and protection of hinges, springs, moving parts on cars, bikes, tools, machines, household devices and so on".
The important thing is that you don't use Silicone grease or any other kind of grease (except for the Z leadscrew which came with its specific grease). And I wouldn't recommend using any oil from asian hobby suppliers like Hobbyking or Airsoft stuff (which is usually silicone based).
Be very careful with gun grease! Ballistol is actually a mineral oil, so it should be fine. But for example the grease used for the Swiss Army assault rifle is very aggressive and must not be used for anything else than that specific rifle.
The important term here is "grease". Do NOT use any kind of grease for the UM axes! Use mineral oil. Brand won't matter (I guess Ballistol is expensive?).
/edit:
Also, I recommend using a simple "pouring" oil, not a spray. No need to lubricate the whole machine, you only need to hit the axes
/edit2:
Also, don't use WD40. First, it sprays all over the machine (see above) and second, WD40 is more than just oil. It's also a powerful solvent to clean away rust and dirt. Both is not necessary on the UM. But it shouldn't do any damage so don't worry if you are already using WD40.
/edit3:
By the way, using a special oil that can preserve over many years is futile. The constant movement in your printer will make it necessary to re-apply oil every few months or so. The preserving effect of Ballistol is only of value if you want to store the printer away for 10 years (who does such an evil thing?).
Creating a Homemade 3Doodler (3D Printer Pen)
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
This may sound kinda stupid, but why would you want to build a 3Doodler clone yourself if you could just get one for the ridiculously low price of 99$ including some filament?
Unless you are able to construct and produce all the mechanical parts yourself, you're going to pay a LOT more than 99$...
Do you intend to add some features that the original doesn't have?
/Edit:
Imho it would be interesting if you want to make the handpiece considerably smaller. From the pictures of the original I assume that it's quite a big, chunky piece. If it were much smaller, like a regular pencil, it would make it much easier to use. But that's probably quite the challenge because if it weren't, the original would probably be smaller, too...