jonnybischof
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Posts posted by jonnybischof
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Also das Orbi-Tech PLA90 würde ich nicht als "gut" bezeichnen... Das Material hat sehr seltsame Eigenschaften, aka "alter-Kaugummi-Konsistenz"...
Bin bisher noch nicht durch viele Filamente durch, aber das teure PLA90 war bisher das schlechteste. Ausserdem hat das Filament möglicherweise ziemlich starke Schwankungen im Durchmesser. Ich habe damit immer abwechselnd Unter- bzw. Über-Extrudierung.
Die erste Faberdashery-Lieferung liegt auch bei mir schon herum. Die Farben sind wohl konkurrenzlos das edelste, was es momentan gibt! Druckeigenschaften habe ich noch nicht getestet, kommt vermutlich morgen an die Reihe.
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Zum Teil gibts das sicher hier im Forum, allerdings meist in Englisch.
Bin hier bisher immer fündig geworden, ansonsten einfach nachfragen (Englisch ist von grossem Vorteil...)
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I'm very interested in this research, and the pics
Why not create a gallery for them in the forum? Then you can put them into your post..
I've had problems with much shorter bridging parts, which is why for now I always construct my designs without any bridging, or with as little as possible...
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You mean you put in the flex coupler and the leadscrew stops wobbling?
I have the problem that, when I print really high prints (which I don't to because of the problem), the slider block actually collides with the leadscrew because the screw leans forward that much. I noticed that while assembling the UM, when I moved the Z-stage by hand...
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I'll try this one out, thanks!
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It doesn't take a genious engineer to wire that up, but it does take basic electronics knowledge...
Make sure you have someone do it who has that basic knowledge. Anyone working with electricity should do fine.
/edit:
Oh, and make sure you know what type/model your relay is and get the datasheet (which explains how to connect it). Just google the model number, it's usually the first hit.
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I have an idea that could maybe solve this problem:
Imagine a small diameter cone next to the object being printed (the cone is of course being built up by the printer along with the printed object).
Now if the hotend moves away from the object, it goes behind this cone, and when it goes back to the object, it moves over the cone, stripping any oozed plastic off the hotend. So the hotend arrives at the object cleaned. The cone gets all the excess material, but as it is just a disposable item, it doesn't matter. I don't know how long the wait time is, I've never thested this feature, but why not just go over the cone several times if necessary and "clean" the hotend whenever necessary?
Also, the mere fact that the printer has to do more work per layer will already increase layer time.
Drawbacks:
- You waste some material for printing the cone (best keep it always hollow, ignoring infill settings, and note that oozing is also wasting material...)
- If you have stringing problems, you will have more stringing problems than before
/edit:
You could position the hotend "inside" the hollow cone in order to get all oozing material inside it. Then you could name the feature "trash bin".
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P.S:
Jensa hat damit schon Erfahrungen gemacht:
http://flashgamer.com/arduino/comments/conductive-abs-from-repraper
Er schreibt, dass es schwierig zu drucken sei, weil es ein "enges Temperaturfenster" braucht (allerdings schreibt er im nächsten Satz dass er es bei "230 bis 240°C" gedruckt hat und ein Temperaturfenster von 10K ist nicht eng..)
Weiterhin vermutet er, dass das gesamte leitende ABS vom selben Produzenten sind. Er hat seines hier gekauft:
http://www.repraper.com/goods.php?id=173
Und hier gibts dasselbe nochmal:
http://www.makergeeks.com/coabs3dfi10.html
das komische ist, dass die repraper beim Widerstand 10 kiloOhm/cm angibt, also ein ziemlich hoher wert, während es bei makergeeks nur 104 Ohm/cm sein sollen und bei Ulfs Quelle ist garnix angegeben.
Ich finde dass das bis jetzt ziemlich nach Schmafu riecht, aber wenn Jonnys Erfahrungen nicht allzu schlecht werden und ich irgendwann Geld dafür hab' werde ich es auch noch versuchen, denn Jensa hat geschrieben, dass ihn das Verblocken des Hotends am meisten genervt hat, aber soweit ich das sehe hat er keine aktive Kühlung verbaut.
Ich hab' eins von E3D vielleicht geht's damit ein bisschen besser.
gruß Fabian
Ist mir grade aufgefallen: 104 Ohm/cm ist wahrscheinlich 10^4 = 10'000 Ohm...
Habe das Material mittlerweile erhalten. Es ist wie erwartet dissipativ, sprich hochohmig leitfähig. Für gedruckte Schaltungen (im wahrsten Sinne des Wortes
) ist es unbrauchbar, aber eben genau für ESD-Sachen ideal.Habe noch nichts damit gedruckt, mein Ultimaker ist noch nicht bereit für ABS. Wenn das Zeug mir tatsächlich den Extruder verstopft, fliegts direkt in die Tonne...
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You can get good results if you build a special type of "blender extruder". Basically you need a dual extruder that extrudes both filaments into the same nozzle. Then you can switch between extruders or run them both at the same time to blend the colors.
See this for details:
http://richrap.blogspot.ch/2012/08/3-way-quick-fit-extruder-and-colour.html
I recently switched from a white to a black PLA filament. With the Ulticontroller I chose "preheat PLA" and then just pulled out the white filament, then switched to the new black filament.
Then I started a print just to see how long it would take until the remaining white PLA would be completely gone. It took several minutes (bottom layer printing slowly) until the color shifted. But I also noticed that from time to time there would be small bits of white in between the black filament. This continued for one or two prints.
My conclusion is that if you want to switch colors "cleanly", you shouldn't only switch the filmament but purge any remaining old filament before inserting the new one.
I got a much sharper color change (completely switched within one layer) when I went out of my first filament spool in the middle of a print and just pushed in the new filament by hand while the print continued (it actually worked...).
It could also be that it doesn't matter "how" you switch filament but "between which" filaments you switch.
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...Only 45 minutes says Cura - nice!!
Be aware that this is a bug in Curea 13.10! It basically always "calculates" the printing time to 45 minutes... The developer is aware of this and it's probably going to be fixed soon.
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Very interesting research, keep it going!
Until now I never minded the humidity issue, but I'll have some kilograms of filament laying around soon, so I'll probably want to copy your solution. Thank you!
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Also ich bin vom Orbi-Tech PLA90 nicht besonders begeistert... Lässt sich recht gut drucken, aber die Festigkeit lässt extrem zu wünschen übrig... Ist sowas wie getrockneter Kaugummi, nicht wirklich steif. Lässt sich auch sehr einfach biegen und brechen. Ich verwende es nur noch zum Ausprobieren von neuen Modellen...
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Nice! Thanks for improving the comments formatting, that was so annoying *thumbs up*
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I got some of your pulleys, too. Haven't installed them yet but it's clearly visible (under a stereoscopic microscope) that these are of better quality than the stock pulleys. I'd pay the same price again if I had to get more of them, but I have to admit they were pretty expensive.
I'd rather pay more and get your good pulleys than getting something which I might have to replace again because it didn't meet the expectations (hint: Ebay). The time and nerves saved are worth something, too!
Btw, what would it cost to make these pulleys out of T6 Aluminum and hard-anodize them?
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Does it even matter if the steel cables expand / contract? With the right construction this shouldn't matter:
The cables are only used to move the axes, and the endstops provide the "where is my zero" information. If you have a simple construction to even out the cable warping (like some strong spring at the ends of the cable) then it shouldn't matter: The motor makes 10 turns, the cable transmits 10 turns. Doesn't matter if the cable gets longer or shorter with time, or does it?
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Werde auf jeden Fall Rückmeldung geben.
Ich denke nicht, dass man damit Schaltungen drucken kann. Dafür müsste der Metallanteil im Material sehr hoch sein, sprich der Widerstand pro cm müsste sich im Milliohmbereich bewegen. Es handelt sich wohl eher um dissipatives Material, sprich man kann damit ESD-ableitende aka antistatische Teile drucken.
Ich will damit beispielsweise Hilfs-Aufbauten zum Löten unserer Geräte drucken. Da die Geräte (bzw. Schaltungen) sehr empfindlich sind, ist es natürlich toll, wenn die Aufbauten antistatisch sind..
Ausserdem kann man damit antistatische Verpackungen designen, werde ich ebenfalls ausprobieren, wenn ich ESD-empfindliche Teile per Post verschicken muss.
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Sounds like your firmware has wrong E settings, the 12.11 added a default of 868.66 in the steps-per-E value, but this was removed in later versions. This effects extrusion. (In very old firmwares this value had a default of 14)
Doesn't that mean you have to update the printer's firmware when switching from 12.11 to 13.10?
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Ok, da ist aber ein fehler drin. Das ABS ist teilweise als "Glow in the dark" angegeben... Hast du da nachgefragt?
/edit: Hab mir jetzt einfach einmal eine Spule bestellt. Hoffentlich ist es tatsächlich dissipatives Material, wär genial
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Little update:
I got all the parts now and am ready to try out my new Basalt heated bed from QU-BD.com. It actually is pretty heavy, being a 200x200 mm large and 10mm thick, massive Basalt-glass plate. But I think the UM will cope. If it doesn't, I'll probably add additional support rods on the front of the printer bed...
And I guess it will take forever to heat up, but that doesn't really matter if your print takes 10 hours or more anyways... And you don't need to heat up the bed for small prints... AND I think the silicone heater can put quite some heat into that bed, so maybe it won't even be that long.
If nothing works, this will be the perfect plate for doing solder work on. It looks pretty much indestructible.
It will take me some time to put the stuff together, but I'll report back when I'm done
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Du hast elektrisch leitfähiges ABS gefunden??? Kannst du mir sagen, wo man das kriegt?
Ich nehme an, es ist dissipativ (hochohmig), nicht "leitfähig" wie Metall?
Als Elektroniker bin ich sehr an einem solchen Material interessiert, da ich unter anderem auch Transportverpackungen für empfindliche elektronische Schaltungen drucken werde.. Wenn die ESD-ableitfähig sind, ist das natürlich top.
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At least someone still has his dreams
If you succeed in printing that baby, I'll definetly be one of your fans!
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Yes! This sounds great!
And don't forget some function where one can apply to contribute!
You can't add people to a design team unless they tell you that they want to join
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Any news about how to make an actual project from ideas?
By now there is one thing (the open source autonomous vacuuming robot) that should be taken to the next step asap!
But discussing solutions and stuff in the comments section (still without formatting possibilities
) isn't efficient.So, how is this meant to work?
I've noticed that you can add "possible solutions". But for that, I'd have to make a design with my solution and link it. Now, if someone else wants to collaborate, we're stuck again because only I would have write permissions on this design...
And then, imho, it would just cramp up the "designs" database if I made a separate design for the bot's electronics.
So, what now?
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Imho, Google Sketchup (I decided to stay with V.8 instead of the new 2013) is perfect for a beginner to get to know his printer. I've started making my own models last week. By now I've created a lot of stuff without much trouble and with great results. However, if you use Blender, you can probably ignore Sketchup...
I definetly recommend using Cura for creating the G-Code. The X-Ray view is a perfect tool to get good results: If there's anything red in X-Ray view, it needs to be fixed. For example, if you put two cubes side to side to form a single block, then you have to get rid of the surfaces which are between the two cubes -> surfaces inside of a solid object are going to get the slicer into trouble...
If you need a real CAD tool instead of just a 3D-drawing program, you should take a look at PTC Creo Elements / Direct Modeling.
It's free to use, and it's based on Wildfire / ProE which is one of the industry leaders for professional CAD tools.
Personally, I hate it because it's just NOT intuitive. I don't ever want to touch it again, but as soon as I have to create some serious models, I'll probably have to...
UM2 extrusion rates
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Afaik you can change the stepper current with the "trimpot" = trimmer potentiometer on the driver boards. This will change the hardware-setting. There is no scale or display of what's set there exactly, so you have to measure manually.
/edit: by the way, that's for the UM1. Don't know if it's the same with UM2!
I don't know if there is a software-setting, too. With sw-setting, you should only be able to lower the maximum current, but not increase beyond what's set in hardware. Again, I don't have a clue on how the stepper firmware works, that's just an assumption based on how it's usually done.