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Nicolinux

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Everything posted by Nicolinux

  1. Wow, very nice. Are the cloth parts real or just insanely well painted?
  2. Hehe, I have transparent PLA here... The material fed in ok, but hangs a bit where the teflon coupler and the nozzle meet. It doesn't hang if I feed it by hand when I take the bowden tube out though. But it passes this place and goes on.
  3. If you want to avoid taking the head apart, you could take the bowden tube out (at the head) and slide filament by hand (while the nozzle is hot). You don't need to go all the way in, just test the passage in the teflon coupler. If it slides without resistance, then you are fine. Regarding the spool holder. I mean now, with the new one - did you print illuminarti's test objects?
  4. Robert from my experience, you don't have to. If we have the same problem, cleaning the nozzle won't help you a bit. By the way, did you new spool holder improve the underextrusion problem?
  5. So, I have put everything together. Here are my results: Before I printed the test object on the far right, I disassembled the extruder (again!) and noticed the filament guide in the encasing was roughed and a bit bent in some places. I filed away a wee tiny bit on these edges. The last test object is a bit better but this could be due to normal variance. The first two tests failed at 5mm^3/s and the later at 6mm^3/s. I have also noticed that filament tips look weird and mangled now (when I change filament). Don't know why. I also borrowed a temperature sensor from a friend. The nozzle temp sensor is spot on. The heated bed plate is off by 2-3° but this could be due to the difficult testing (the temperature sensor is tiny and has to make contact with as much of the area as possible). Now I am done with my todo list. I have still no clue what's wrong here. The level of pain with the UM2 starts to rival my experience with the UM1... (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2716-cannot-lower-bed-to-reach-endstop/).
  6. I'll do it if Sander or anybody else from UM says so. I fear that tinkering with this can go very bad and brick the board.
  7. Of what? The extruder? Incidentally I have black ABS here so I could print it. But I have never printed with ABS before and I don't want to add another variable to this already complex problem. I will do it however if the UM folks issue an updated version that will get rid of these underextrusion problems for sure.
  8. Damn, the pillow was it. And I used a cheap analog scale that I bought today (because my stupid high end, internet enabled digital scale can't hold it's shi* together for more than a few seconds...). I hope more people will do this test. Then we would have more data. But even with 70% of you extruder's power, my tests shouldn't fail at 5mm^3/s. Now whenever I hear the skipping, underextrusion occurs instantaneously. I remember this was different before.
  9. Hi, will Ultimaker be at Maker Faire in Hannover/Germany? (http://makerfairehannover.com)
  10. I have repeated the weight test. My extruder seems to be weaker than others (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4222-pulling-force-of-um-extruder/?p=35326) :(
  11. Hi, I have repeated the weight test. This time I tried to emulate gr5's test conditions as best as I could. It looks like my extruder can pull less weight than the others. It jumps/skips at 3.75 kg. edit by gr: with more accurate scale (post below) nicolinux got to 5.7kg
  12. Ok, note taken. 250mm/s sure sounds scary. Gotta try it too
  13. Top/bottom is perfectly fine, just too many shells won't do any good. Expecially for an object that doesn't need structural integrity but is just for looks
  14. Yes that's "normal". When you slice the model in Cura, take not of the time it shows there. With the latest versions it got more and more acurate. Worst case - double the time shown. Travel speed is way too high. I think the default is 150mm/s. 250mm/s is the limit - not a good idea for a torture test where quality is top priority. Also three shells (shell 1.2) is too much imho. 0.8 should be enough.
  15. Weird, with your settings I get an estimate of 5.4 hours. And you don't need much infill. 15% hould be enough.
  16. Would you mind posting the settings here? If you did not went with layer height below 0.1 or speed below 10, I can't find a combination that takes so long. It should take 1-2 hours at most.
  17. What? So long? That's way too long. Which settings did you use?
  18. Nice one. I love this model - already printed it many times as a gift for the family. Did you use the default 0.4 nozzle for the woodfill one?
  19. Thingiverse (and Youmagine.com) - the mother of all time sinks für 3D printing enthusiasts. One tip, on Thingiverse look at the "most popular" category.
  20. Access the "Material" section on your UM2. There you can store a new preset with these settings or overwrite the PLA one. Sadly you can't rename presets. So don't create too many, or you'll end up with many "Custom1", "Custom2"... entries.
  21. I haven't. It looks nice (and +1 for the Mac version) but $300 is too pricey for a hobby tool. DesignSpark Mechanical is free (sadly Windows only) and looks equaly powerful. But I know, this means nothing. If MoI is easier to use, it would be worth it.
  22. I haven't put everything together right now. If I do it and filament hangs in the teflon piece then I'd have to take the head apart again. But I can't test it without putting everything together first. Kind of a chicken egg problem. WD40 arrived today. I will put everything together, do the weight test again and use the spray. Will post my findings.
  23. Ok, now I understand. Sorry for the trouble, and thanks
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