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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. I understand that this is a matter of priorities, and obviously this is not a bug but the way it was designed. We really don't NEED a lot of things that we use in a daily basis, but they are very usefull. I think that this has to be taken as a suggestion, a low priority suggestion that would be very welcome when you have enough time to implement it (if you finally decide to do so)
  2. I'm having a similar problem with a shiny material. It would be awesome to be able to choose between the actual method (closest point), a random point method and a method that places the point at corners so its less visible.
  3. Hi, I have been very busy these last days and forgot to upload the modified printhead with fan mount: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:272996 I finally achieved to make good prints with the UBIS, the problem was that the temperature table I was using (100k - Best choice for EPCOS 100K) was way too far from the real temperature. Even at 170C, I was able to extrude and it still was too hot and Marlin is limited to not extrude with lower temps. Then I found this forum topic and tried the Marlin table 7 "100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)" and it worked perfectly
  4. @IRobertl: you are not alone. I'm having a lot of problems with the UBIS too. I printed a torture test (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33902) scaled at 0.5. This is the result: I tried with temperatures from 190C to 220C and only at higher temperatures worked better (but not ok, with a lot of random under/overextrusion) 0.1 layers 40mm/s 35/4.5 retraction (also tried with 35/5.5 with no success eliminating the stringing) Ultimaker PLA Also tried enabling/disabling the fans, with no success
  5. Hi, I finally couldn't find this kind of molex connector in any electronics shop, so I replaced them with another connectors. I modified Nicks design so it can hold a pair of 40x40mm fans. Nick if you give me permission y will share it (and of course give you credit) Now I will try to make my first Ubis print (fingers crossed). I am worried about if the top part of the Ubis gets too hot during long prints because I don't have a crossflow fan. Have anybody tried a long print without crossflow fan?
  6. Hi, I bought an UBIS hot end a while ago and now I'm decided to install it, but I don't have much idea of electronics. I have read the entire post and there is a lot of info, thank you for that! Now I have to buy a pair of cables and connectors but I have a question, do I need a special power cable so it doesn't get hot? Maybe is a noob question, but the ultimaker 1 heater cartridge cable seems like a "special" cable to me. And the last question, how should I ask for the (Molex?) connectors in the electronics store? Is there a model number or something like that? Thank you all for this aweso
  7. Yo he comprado un par de bobinas de filamento PLA en reprapbcn.com, es muy barato y los gastos de envio también al ser en España. A ver que tal es de calidad, ya os iré diciendo. También tienen Laybrick. Por cierto, por si os interesa sacar partido a vuestra impresora mientras no la usais, está esta página que pinta bastante bien: www.3dhubs.com Lo que hacen es esperar a que haya al menos 10 impresoras en una ciudad para montar un evento para que la gente conozca el servicio y lo use. En Madrid ya somos 5, a ver si arrancamos
  8. Hi, I don't know how but after some hours printing everything is working again. Maybe there was something tiny obstructing partially the nozzle and causing some plastic to ooze and under-extrusion. I really appreciate your help, thanks! Cheers.
  9. I forget to say that I tried with the fan on and off, with similar results. Before I changed the nozzle, that pyramid was printing ok a that speeds with the fan connected.
  10. Thanks for your response. The strange thing is that with my previous nozzle and the same filament (Ultimaker filament) I never had this problems, the retraction was working perfectly at 4.5mm and 50mm/s and the extruded material was smooth at 210ºC and 40mm/s. I don't want to remove all the stringing every time I print something. The software is the same, the version is the same, the firmware is the same... the nozzle is the only thing I changed. Could it be that there is something wrong with this nozzle? You are right with the bed leveling, when I printed that objects it was a bit offset, b
  11. Hi, I recently bought a new Ultimaker hotend (nozzle, heater block and brass pipe) because I ruined the last one trying to unclog it. Now I'm having problems with this new hotend. Now I need to print at 230ºC for a 30-40mm/s speed because otherwise it underextrudes (I used to print at 210ºC or less for this speeds) I thought this was the origin of the stringing issue, but lowering the temp doesn't help. I tried with different retraction speeds and objects with almost no retraction but everything is the same. I think this video I made is self explanatory: Any help would be a
  12. Yo de momento estoy muy contento con los resultados, la calidad de impresión es bastante alta. La única pega que tengo es que hay que hacer bastante mantenimiento para mantener buenos resultados, pero creo que en ese sentido la UM2 será mejor. Yo uso Kisslicer, ya que como bien dices Cura se me quedaba un poco corto de opciones. Creo que Cura tiene mucho potencial y que si siguen trabajando en mejorarlo llegará a ser un gran slicer, pero de momento a mi se me ha colgado alguna vez. También alguna vez me ha creado material de soporte en el aire. En lo que creo que Cura es bueno es con geometrí
  13. Hola! Yo soy de Madrid y tengo la Ultimaker 1 desde Agosto, de vez en cuando me conecto al foro así que si tienes alguna duda o pregunta ya sabes. Supongo que habrá cosas comunes con la ultimaker 2 con las que pueda ayudarte.
  14. Thanks for your detailed explanation! I'll do some tests to reduce shrinking. If I use lower temperatures, will it also help to reduce shrinking?
  15. ok, here is one of my first prints (and problems): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:71593 There is a slight X/Y offset at half height, where it should be flat. I sliced it with Kisslicer and the G-code seems to be ok: It's printed in PLA with this settings: 0.2mm layer height 0.8mm wall thickness (2 loops) 30mm/s outer loop 50mm/s inner loop 70mm/s infill 20% infill 220ºC
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