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tommyph1208

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Posts posted by tommyph1208

    Tips and known pitfalls?

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Looks really great in white! no wonder the UM2 is white. :p

     

    The instructions are pretty good.

     

    My recommendations.

     

    -Read the comments on the wiki FIRST. before you begin the page. They will tell you the common pitfalls before you stumble upon them.

    -Pay extra extra attention when plugging in the limit switch wires to the board. It seems common to mix one plug and the head will slam into one side and you'll be left scratching your head as to why the printer won't zero.

    -Tighten those set screws on the gears holding the rods as tightly as humanly possible without snapping your screwdriver. -leading cause of skewed prints. And make sure you do this before you install the Print bed.

    -the limit switches are soo so easy to strip. Be gentle.

     

    Thank you Valcrow, I definately think the idea of reading comments of each page first is a good idea, have seen alot of small hints in there :)

    Tips and known pitfalls?

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Hey guys

    After what seems like forever i am about to start reassembling my Ultimaker Original after a serious cosmetic and technical overhaul..

    Since I bought the printer second hand I have not been through the assembly process before (only disassembly :p )and so just wanted to know if anyone has any tips or can warn about typical "first assembly" mistakes, pitfalls etc.?

    Here are some pictures of my parts after before mentioned cosmetic overhaul:

    Ultimaker Original parts with white paint coat

    Test assembly of coated frame - parts still fit together :)

     

    What kind of models to use for a beginner's class?

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    it needs to be useable afterwards, to generate some enthusiasm around the project and work that goes into it...

    So something like a keychain or small puzzle games of various sorts would in my mind be great starting projects... great thing is that depending on the detail and or complexity and shape of the puzzle or keychain there is room for a large variety of difficulty levels in design and production.

    Greeting from Northern Ireland & price query

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    The 1895€ are ex.vat (even says on the page right next to the price, though its in grey letters that are harder to spot)

    Its 21% and you need to add shipping as well. For me in DK thats 26.84 with FedEx, which means the final price would come to 2325,43€...

    If you start to fill in an order you can see the correct price before reaching the payment section and hitting the "place order" button...

    Is ColorFabb the best PLA?

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    colorfabb is supposed to be great yes, also you have faberdashery in the uk which is supposed to also be great... They sell by the meter and you can get a "rainbow funpack with 10 m. of each of their top ten colors (100 m. total) for 22£

    Try them out... its the best way to know really... :)

    Post your latest print!

    in What have you made

    Posted

    Did my first painting. I used a little airbrush set for this.

    Also did a print of the Winged Victory, its about 40 cm high. Its slightly primed and spray painted.

     

    That is some top notch painting right there... man... I gotta get me an airbrush set..

    How hard are these to use/learn?

    I used to do model painting in my younger years (warhammer fantasy) using fine brushes, so have some idea of highlighting, shadowing, blending etc., but have never used an airbrush or even seen someone use one...

    Retracting - Verständnisprobleme....

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Hi there, my german is not good enough for writing, so I hope you can use an english answer...

    Retracting means that the printer will pull back the filament when doing travels, that is: when moving from one area where it has printed, onto a new area where it has to print.

    Imagine eg. that you are printing two colums next to eacother with some space inbetween them, typically you will print one layer of one colum, then quickly move over an empty space and then print one layer of the other column.

    Without retraction, there will still be some pressure in the hotend when moving over the empty area, which will result in so called "stringing".

    With retraction enabled the printer will pull back in the filament string, creating a vaccum in the hotend, so no plastic will come out of the nozzle while doing the travel.

    As for settings you have to experiment, but a good starting point could be 4 mm. retraction length, with a speed of 40 mm./s.

    There is also a setting for "minimum distance" which determines how far the travel has to be before retraction is triggered...

    Other settings not related to retraction affect stringing as well, like the printing temperature and travel speed...

    Ultimaker 2 or Replicator 2X

    in Buying or selling your UltiMaker

    Posted

    I agree with Robert, you are:

    - NOT going to be printing 300 mm/s (more like 100, .. maybe)

    - NOT going to be printing at 20 microns (anything below 60 is in my opinion outright silly, though I do not own an UM2)

    An advatage of the replicator/disadvantage of the UM2 that you have not mentioned is the current horrible lead times of the UM2... (For Canada I would easily expect 2 months before delivery, unless you buy from some local reseller that already has stock)

    Another thing to consider is that you can get China knockoffs of the Replicator for 1/3 the price...

    E3D All Metal Hotend for Ultimaker

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    I warn all Ultimaker owners to stay away from this hotend. It has been nothing but a giant headache for months. This unreliable hotend has left our two Ultimakers more or less inoperable since January and chewed up 100+ hours of my time. I've used three of these heads on two different machines. Every single one of them jams. I've polished the interior stainless steel surface to a mirror finish but it did not help. I've increased the size of the heater block and snugged the brass nozzle flange against the face of the heater block to increase heat transfer and nozzle temperature stability. I've tried all kinds of PLA filament and every single one of them ends in a hotend jam. Read this thread for more details.

    http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1682&start=560

    Plenty of people love this head for ABS but for PLA users, beware.

     

    Could it be that you need to adjust your retract settings? I have read that due to the very short hot area and very cool cold area of the hotend, retracting warm molten filament too far back in the chamber will cause it to solidify and jam...

    EDIT:

    Just read a bit of your link, and it talks alot about retract, so I guess you tried messing with that.. sorry

    How to Store your Filament?

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Electric dry cabinet will definately work, but sounds a bit like overkill... I ordered 50 small silica pads (the small moisture absorbing bags you find in eg. shoe boxes) on ebay... Throw the filament in an tight container or bag with a few of those, and you should be good :)

    Ordering from Ulitmaker is getting really bad

    in Buying or selling your UltiMaker

    Posted

    My issue is that I like the UM1. It performs well. Most of the people here are nice and want to help and Sander does his best to help people with orders.

    So I want to support UM and buy from them.

    However, I just can't wait weeks for parts and orders to be filled and have to send e-mail and tickets over and over again. It's particularly frustrating that they take the money upfront....

     

    I like the UM1 too, and I want to keep liking Ultimaker as a company... It was my printer of choice, and has been the printer and company I have recommended to other people asking into, and wanting to get into 3D printing.

    However, for all of the different problems with UM right now, I'm not sure I would recommend anyone to buy the UM2, and I think thats a damn shame...

    UM is NOT the first small company that has experienced success, and have had to grow and expand with increasing popularity and demand.. There are ways and methods of dealing with that...

    Ordering from Ulitmaker is getting really bad

    in Buying or selling your UltiMaker

    Posted

    Well looks like they have a lot of orders to handle. Which is good, means business is doing very well and Ultimaker will flourish and grow, but not optimal if the customer isn´t satisfied. [/url]

     

    I want to question that statement... As someone who has been following the forums for quite some time I have seen a serious increase in unsatisfied customers due to various cases of UM not having been able to keep their logistics together after the release of UM2.

    It is coming to the point where people go to the forums before ordering, see all the negative posts, and go for another make and model... which frankly, as things are right now, they should... there are plenty of alternatives out there, and they are getting more and cheaper with each day people are sitting around waiting for UM to get their s*** together...

    Adding the problems with the UM2 feeder failing and slipping filament, only makes matters worse...

    Makerbot Replicator Print Quality

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    This is not a dig at Makerbot :!:

    I sent a model of one of my projects the local Maketbot reseller to have a sample printed. My line of work is injection mould design and related product design (so mostly thin-wall stuff) so printing toy rockets and the like is not really a good test.

    I received the sample earlier this evening was quite shocked to honest. Its nowhere near is good as I expected. Obviously I don't expect it to be of moulded quality but this was quite poor. I have uploaded a screenshot of the model and a photo of the printed part. Note the circled areas in the screenshot.

     

     

    Is this result normal?

    Normal, I don't know, but it is definitely not unseen to have prints of the detail level you are asking for come out something like that...

    3D printing is NOT an "out of the box and everything will be dandy" kind of thing, and to print models like the one you have posted there in that sort of detail will require both experience and skill (the two go hand in hand really)...

    Can it be printed better than shown in the picture? Definitely. Will it ever live up to your expectations...? Hard to say...

    I'm wondering if you are maybe expecting a bit too much from the technology, a sort of "this could/will be the tool that will solve all my problems and headaches" approach...

    In the end, its a machine that presses molten plastic through a 0.4 mm. hole that moves... There are limits to what it can do, and again, those limits are reached through a lot of tinkering...

     

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