tommyph1208
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Posts posted by tommyph1208
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Also... dual extrusion isn't really multicolor printing... you can print two separate colors, thats it...
So don't expect models of hight fidelity in terms of colors... Instead consider painting the model after its printed... You can get very nice results from that
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why not just print one? There are multiple examples of redesigns out there... Like this one that sort of makes me think of valve and halflife
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This happened to me once and turned out to be a loose connection in the thermistor (more specifically, where the wire from the thermistor goes into the small amplification board on top of the hotend)
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Theres a brand new kit for sale on ebay:
Price seems high though, but maybe it can be bargained...
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Man... that is bad :(
Hope you can get a replacement or something, this stuff shouldn't happen....
For future reference, have you tried just leaving the print on the plate for a while until it cools off?
The print should pop right off the plate by itself as it cools, so you won't have to pry it off and risk damaging the glass...
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It is a pleasure doing business with Jason HK!
I was able to add the glass kit to my order shipping tomorrow. WOOT!
He is very responsive.
I concur...
After I ordered two of the borosilicate glass plate kits yesterday he contacted me here on the forums to ask if there was any way that he could help me in terms of the stupid danish customs. I don't think there are, unless you do stuff that is borderline fraud, which is what I told him, but still... This is damn good customer service people!
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Thanks for all the support from UM users, the first batch sold out quickly.
A new batch of heated bed is ready to ship now. For the new batch we increased the size of the soldering pad for the connector and now it is much tougher now. A 0.8 meter long extension cable is now included in the kit as the default cable is likely to be too short for most users.
We also rolled out a glass kit containing a borosilicate glass fitting the HPB and some accessories.
It contains following stuff:
1x Borosilicate Glass (3x220x240mm), ensure flatness.
4x Wire Clips for holding glass plate, light and very convenient to use.
4x Mini Clamp for holding glass plate, strong and sleek.
8x Silicone cushion, for protection of the heated bed when using clamp.
4x Stiffer springs (to replace the original springs) , less springy and easier to tune.
4x Metal leveling knobs.
1x Reversible heat sensitive sticker, for quick visual indication of print surface temperature. ( Turn red from black when over 55C, so ppl know when would be safe to touch)
Best regards,
Bad timing :( I already ordered and got my HB kit, but all the customs and fees and stuff means placing a new order for the glass is a bad deal for me... Should have gotten it along with the HB :(
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Sure sounds like imperfect axis (either thinner in one end than the other or slightly bend), did you try to take them out and check them on the most even surface you can come across? You are absolutely sure that it is the axis that have play inside the bearings and not the bearings that have play in the frame or the frame itself is unstable?
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I hardly think the printer will change revision during that time, however you should check with the reseller that they actually do have stock before ordering. I have heard of others who have ordered through resellers that then places an order at ultimaker and thus are subject to the same delivery times...
On another note: A thing to keep in mind is that if a machine has first been sent to a reseller, and then on from there to you as a customer, it means more shipping and handling... Shipping firms like FedEx, DHL etc. are notorious for handling packages very roughly and there are countless examples of battered up boxes and more or less broken contents out there...
I myself would probably go for ordering from UM directly
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Thank you for clarification - considering this circumstances, I agree that a checklist might lead to a lot more troubles.
You know, sometimes I'm a bit too enthusiastic about modding possibilities :smile:
Aren't we all Drayson, aren't we all... My problem is that the easiest part of any mod is typically ordering the mod/replacement parts off ebay
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Hi there, you should be able to find a glass plate that fits the dimensions either from one of the many reprap shops around or a glass/window shop somewhere, probably much cheaper than from ultimaker too
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Ultimaker keeps all their stuff open source (just released all design files for the um2), this mean larger community capaple of tweaking, adding to and improving the printer (just have a look in these forums under eg. "modifications and hacks" ), for a long foreseeable future... To me that is a great selling point in comparison to other more closed source manufacturers.
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Interesting... though sad to hear about the lack of noise reduction... Perhaps the extruder is the worst? Any particular reason you only replaced the drivers for x y? Apart from obviously saving money...
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so you only swapped drivers for the x and y stepper? Not the z and the extruder? Which ones did you get? The purple ones from pololu?
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If you have a Ulticontroller (otherwise... get one, you won't regret it) you can use the "preheat PLA" option
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Alright cool
And the bed heating works fine on bang bang?
I had actually started sourcing parts for my own HB build before discovering this kit and so have already bought that exact PSU (or one very similar) and also a buck to turn the voltage for the UM down to 19V while leaving the power for the bed at 24...
I also have a SSR that I was hoping could switch fast enough to leve bed mode at PWM/PID(which is it?, I have not messed with it before), and also get rid of any clicking sounds from a relay... but if it works fine on Bang Bang there is no need to stress my SSR
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nice! I also just bought the kit and have some questions...
What did you do in terms of firmware? does the bed run PWM or BangBang? do you have anything to measure temp. (like an ir thermometer) to say anything about how your firmware solution and temp reads correspond with actual temp.?
do you use the psu as a secondary for only the bed or does the printer run on it as well?
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Im not sure i understand... do you have a picture? sounds wierd rhat it cant come back down if it could go up?
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warrenty on my machine is long gone anyways... have been sourcing parts for my own HB upgrade, but now I almost have to try this...
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I believe the guy who makes these posted in another thread?
Edit: here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2771-complete-heated-bed-kit-for-ultimaker/page-3
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Apologies, I see now that the headline says - UK, so that takes care of that part
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Could you provide some more details, like:
What do you consider to be a serious offer?
Where is the printer located?
Are you going for collect only, or are you willing to ship to europe/world?
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You can adjust the voltage in the power supply itself, no need for the buck.
I tried one of those cheap SSR and it got to hot.
I ended up using a normal relay.
I wanted to use the buck since I want 19 V for the UM board but 24 for the HB
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You can take off the MOSFET put it on a remote PCB feed 24v into that take a wire off the gate pin onto the UM board were the FET came from. No extra cost apart from a tiny bit of strip board.
simples.Did you actually build this and have it working, or is it just a theory? It sounds like a very simple and elegant solution...
Bertho's Heated Enclosure
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Solvent welding?
What sort of solvent? How?