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Everything posted by tommyph1208

  1. Its still called "All at once/One at a time", you have to enable settings visibility for Special modes in Preferences -> Settings visibility -> Special modes -> Print Sequence Then you'll find the slicing setting for for it in the Print Settings window (where you also set layer height, temperatures etc., its near the bottom under Special modes -> Print Sequence
  2. What machine do you have? You can move endstops around as you please, but that might require drilling new holes, alternatively, add a bit of extension to the part that triggers the relevant endstop, this will make it stop homing just thatb little bit sooner and make sure your fan bracket dosn't collide with the frame.
  3. What about using the x and y max pins? I never use mine and they seem completely redundant on the machine.
  4. Hi, my german is not great, but I get the gist of your post and the answers. I would replace the radial fan all together with some more silent axial fans. If you have problems with height, print some feet for your machine, there are a number of designs out there, some very clever ones meant for rubber studs or bands which will further help with machine vibration and noise.
  5. I think still fairly few hobby printers have proper filament detection systems and ways of responding to eg. filament getting stuck or running out, and so I'm just gonna go ahead and assume that your printer dosn't have this. In which case, the answer is quite simple, the printer won't know that the filament has run out and no filament is being extruded, and so will just continue "printing" (ie. moving the printhead around and running the feeder), until it is done with the print... this will result in a model that is not fully done. Now, depending on the material you are using and whether
  6. So now comes the part where its crappy to have a motherboard with integrated stepper drivers... 😕
  7. Your problem is with bed adhesion, potentially just caused by bad bed leveling... Looking at the first picture, your first layer isn't properly "squished" out and has not adhered to the bed, this will eventually cause the print to break off the bed and subsequent extruded filament to just print randomly in the air, which can lead to what you describe about it sticking to the nozzle. I don't know what printer you have, but you should run a bed leveling process, making sure than when the printer is homed in the z axis (ie. is at the height where the first layer would be printed, the nozzle sho
  8. I'm pretty sure I did something like that using a negative "cut off object bottom" value... (old version of Cura though)
  9. I think your hotend needs cleaning and or re-tightening, both of which you have to take the hoend carriage and hotend itself apart to do... Sorry to say, but back when I reached a similar point with my UMO I wen't for a new hotend instead or trying to fix the old one (I wen't E3D which are great, but there are a few options out there)
  10. Curling glass is not something I've noticed no... I used to hold it down with plenty of bulldog clips (I currently use 8 on the PCB plate) Regarding the PCB, I think you are right, there is definitely fibre structure when looking at the edges... I also believe the guy I bought it from sold it as epoxy-filled fibreglass pcb material... The colors you describe match very nicely as well... But seriously, can't recommend it enought. Great cheap alternative to FlexiPlate and all the other commercial flexible buildplates out there... obviously, I haven't tried them all, but hard to imagine them be
  11. I have tried a bunch of things over the years... From expensive borosilicate glass and BuildTak surfaces, to cheap IKEA mirrors, window glass and some PCB material which is what I'm currently using. So, first of all, I've found the expensive products Ive tried (dedicated borosilicate glass and BuildTak) to be unimpressive... The BuildTak I tried ended up having a print stuck so well to it, that the sheet ripped and was destroyed while removing the print. The borosilicate glass worked fine, but was eventually destroyed when I had used too strong a glue solution on top of it, and the print t
  12. If you are in the UK and looking into other hotend options, have a look at E3D... they are UK based and make quality stuff... If you are still using the original electronics, you could look into replacing those to give you a good base for expansions... I still run my UMO as well, and got tired of the 19V original electronics a long time ago... I went with a RUMBA board and a big 24V power supply mounted under the printer which runs both the printer itself, LED lights and a 3rd party heatbed. Swap your stepper drivers with the silent stepstick types as well at least on the x/y axis... I
  13. No problem man, glad you got it working :)
  14. You can also get the arduino IDE and just build and upload a version of Marlin yourself... You can find it on GitHub... I have previously used marlin builder tools as well, which basically lets you set up all the things you need in a nice layout without having to mess around in configuration files etc. There is a guide to that in the Tips and Tricks section on the Ultimaker website: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20983-ultimaker-original-custom-firmware-builder
  15. There is (in theory) an increased precision to be gained by going from 1.8 degree to 0.9 degree steppers... I'm not sure it applies to practice though. By far the best way of reducing noise on the UMO is by changing the stepper drivers to silent step sticks (I use the TMC 2100 version, and saw there is now a TMC 2130 as well), search for it here on the forums. You mention yours is an UMO+, I'm out of the loop in terms of what electronics board is in that, does it use the UM2 board w. integrated stepper drivers? (if so, you obviously can't change them). As for changes in firmware if you we
  16. I used this combination for a long time: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-feeder-on-um1 However, if you can live with the noise, I've found the original geared UMO feeder to be the best one I've ever tried.
  17. The first thing I would do was to measure the terminals for the hotend heater when the printer is supposed to be heating... Do you have power on that? If you do, either the hotend heater wire or heater itself is broken and you can just buy a new one for really cheap and replace it. If not, maybe the terminal is broken, but since you wrote that you updated the firmware, I think its much more likely an error in there... Where did you get the firmware from, can you send or post the configuration.h file?
  18. Wow... I have not been in here in ages... Sorry about that, don't know if my input is still useful at all, but can't hurt to answer... I used regular glossy white spray paint for all the wood panels.... I found that it won't stick to the burnt sides, so those I base coated with some more matte wall paint I had standing around... I simply rubbed all the edges with a sponge with the wall paint on it. After that the spray paint adhered nicely to the sides as well... As with all spray paint work, many thin layers rather than one thick, is key to a good finish. I no longer remember where I g
  19. Check out some of the dual extrusion options E3D has come up with: https://e3d-online.com/hotends/multi-extrusion You will still need an extra feeder and possibly a stronger power supply to be able to heat two hotends...
  20. As Sander mentions, maybe the filament is too thick and therefore has trrouble moving through the bowden tube... Did you try measuring it with calipers? It should be no thicker than around 2.9 mm. in diameter... If you open your feeder (unhook it so it dosn't grab hold of the filament) can you extrude manually by pushing the filament up through the tube? (hotend needs to be warm obviously)
  21. Everything about the printer is cntrolled through its firmware, Marlin... You can grab the latest version of that from their website or GitHub: http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/ Make the changes you need in the files contained and upload your modified firmware to your printer using eg. the Arduino IDE
  22. I've seen it done with older UM versions, and it worked fine (interesting vases came out of that) A few things you have to consider: 1. Use filament with similar properties, diameter etc. preferably same brand in different colors, check diameter with digital calipers and enter the average in your slicer. Same goes for print temp (different colors often print best at different temps, so try and find a temperature that works for all) 2. If you don't actually fuse the filament pieces together (quite some effort involved in that) retractions are obviously a no go... 3. Without pauses to r
  23. I run SSSDrivers on my UMO, but am not aware of the issue (maybe that means I don't have it? Or as you also mentioned it, maybe I just accepted flaws like that, writing it off as the bed shifting slightly, or similar... Regardless I think the SSSDriver swap is a no-brainer for any UMO owner, as it just overall makes for a much nicer (primarily quieter) printer. You mention it being a stretch for your capabilities, but speaking from experience it is really not that difficult... There was a lot of confusion at first as to how to properly install them, but in the end they are extremely close
  24. It depends on a lot of things I believe... Your hotend looks like the stock one, what about your feeder? I ran 4,5 mm retraction at 60 mm/s retraction speed for a long time I think, but can’t really remember... I switched to E3D hotends long ago... Try playing around with the travel speed as well...
  25. That's actually the only part. I am running my UMO at 24v since ages... Cool, I didn’t know that... Do you run a 24V heatbed through the MOSFET as well?
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