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tommyph1208

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About tommyph1208

  • Birthday 08/12/1985

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  1. tommyph1208

    Why do my prints keep messing up?

    Your problem is with bed adhesion, potentially just caused by bad bed leveling... Looking at the first picture, your first layer isn't properly "squished" out and has not adhered to the bed, this will eventually cause the print to break off the bed and subsequent extruded filament to just print randomly in the air, which can lead to what you describe about it sticking to the nozzle. I don't know what printer you have, but you should run a bed leveling process, making sure than when the printer is homed in the z axis (ie. is at the height where the first layer would be printed, the nozzle should sit right at the bed surface regardless of where on the bed you move the printhead... Check the distance with a thin piece of paper, you should be able to drag it in between the nozzle and print bed, feeling some amount of resistance. Apart from this bed leveling you may wan't to look at different options for bed adhesion... There is a separate thread for all of this: Here
  2. tommyph1208

    Set Z offset in Cura

    I'm pretty sure I did something like that using a negative "cut off object bottom" value... (old version of Cura though)
  3. I think your hotend needs cleaning and or re-tightening, both of which you have to take the hoend carriage and hotend itself apart to do... Sorry to say, but back when I reached a similar point with my UMO I wen't for a new hotend instead or trying to fix the old one (I wen't E3D which are great, but there are a few options out there)
  4. tommyph1208

    build plate

    Curling glass is not something I've noticed no... I used to hold it down with plenty of bulldog clips (I currently use 8 on the PCB plate) Regarding the PCB, I think you are right, there is definitely fibre structure when looking at the edges... I also believe the guy I bought it from sold it as epoxy-filled fibreglass pcb material... The colors you describe match very nicely as well... But seriously, can't recommend it enought. Great cheap alternative to FlexiPlate and all the other commercial flexible buildplates out there... obviously, I haven't tried them all, but hard to imagine them being much better, since I can't really find any flaws with the PCB material... Great durability too!
  5. tommyph1208

    build plate

    I have tried a bunch of things over the years... From expensive borosilicate glass and BuildTak surfaces, to cheap IKEA mirrors, window glass and some PCB material which is what I'm currently using. So, first of all, I've found the expensive products Ive tried (dedicated borosilicate glass and BuildTak) to be unimpressive... The BuildTak I tried ended up having a print stuck so well to it, that the sheet ripped and was destroyed while removing the print. The borosilicate glass worked fine, but was eventually destroyed when I had used too strong a glue solution on top of it, and the print tore out chunks of glass when it was removed from the glass. I've later tried cheap window glass and mirrors, and they worked just as well... Never had a window glass or mirror shatter due to heat, so I'm not sure the borosilicate properties are really needed. I like window glass better of the two, since its easier to find or get cut to size. Currently I'm using a sort of PCB material, I'm not sure exactly what, but it seems to be some sort of fibreglass/epoxy mix and has a light brown/yellowish color... I got it from some guy in a FB group that was offering to cut to size and sell them rather cheap, and its the best surface I've used yet... I use a little bit of wood glue and water when printing PLA, and a ABS slurry when printing ABS, and the prints stick WELL! Once the print is done and the parts cooled down, I can usually pry them off, sometimes lifting a corner with a knife. If this proves too difficult, I remove the bulldog clips holding the plate to my heatbed and just flex it, which pops the prints right off...
  6. If you are in the UK and looking into other hotend options, have a look at E3D... they are UK based and make quality stuff... If you are still using the original electronics, you could look into replacing those to give you a good base for expansions... I still run my UMO as well, and got tired of the 19V original electronics a long time ago... I went with a RUMBA board and a big 24V power supply mounted under the printer which runs both the printer itself, LED lights and a 3rd party heatbed. Swap your stepper drivers with the silent stepstick types as well at least on the x/y axis... I run TMC2100, I know they now have a TMC2130 model... They are a bit expensive, but it is by far the most noise reducing upgrade you can make and is pretty simple plug and play. Here is a few pictures of my printer from its major rebuild some years back:
  7. tommyph1208

    UMO Not Heating Hot End?

    No problem man, glad you got it working :)
  8. tommyph1208

    UMO Not Heating Hot End?

    You can also get the arduino IDE and just build and upload a version of Marlin yourself... You can find it on GitHub... I have previously used marlin builder tools as well, which basically lets you set up all the things you need in a nice layout without having to mess around in configuration files etc. There is a guide to that in the Tips and Tricks section on the Ultimaker website: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20983-ultimaker-original-custom-firmware-builder
  9. There is (in theory) an increased precision to be gained by going from 1.6 degree to 0.9 degree steppers... I'm not sure it applies to practice though. By far the best way of reducing noise on the UMO is by changing the stepper drivers to silent step sticks (I use the TMC 2100 version, and saw there is now a TMC 2130 as well), search for it here on the forums. You mention yours is an UMO+, I'm out of the loop in terms of what electronics board is in that, does it use the UM2 board w. integrated stepper drivers? (if so, you obviously can't change them). As for changes in firmware if you were to change your stepper motors to 0.9 degree ones, all you have to do is double the steps/mm. for the axis where you changed motors. You can do this directly on the LCD smart controller if you have one of those...
  10. I used this combination for a long time: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-feeder-on-um1 However, if you can live with the noise, I've found the original geared UMO feeder to be the best one I've ever tried.
  11. tommyph1208

    UMO Not Heating Hot End?

    The first thing I would do was to measure the terminals for the hotend heater when the printer is supposed to be heating... Do you have power on that? If you do, either the hotend heater wire or heater itself is broken and you can just buy a new one for really cheap and replace it. If not, maybe the terminal is broken, but since you wrote that you updated the firmware, I think its much more likely an error in there... Where did you get the firmware from, can you send or post the configuration.h file?
  12. Wow... I have not been in here in ages... Sorry about that, don't know if my input is still useful at all, but can't hurt to answer... I used regular glossy white spray paint for all the wood panels.... I found that it won't stick to the burnt sides, so those I base coated with some more matte wall paint I had standing around... I simply rubbed all the edges with a sponge with the wall paint on it. After that the spray paint adhered nicely to the sides as well... As with all spray paint work, many thin layers rather than one thick, is key to a good finish. I no longer remember where I got the E3D mount... I think actually a guy I know modified a model I found on thingiverse.
  13. Check out some of the dual extrusion options E3D has come up with: https://e3d-online.com/hotends/multi-extrusion You will still need an extra feeder and possibly a stronger power supply to be able to heat two hotends...
  14. tommyph1208

    Ultimaker original+ won’t print any layers

    As Sander mentions, maybe the filament is too thick and therefore has trrouble moving through the bowden tube... Did you try measuring it with calipers? It should be no thicker than around 2.9 mm. in diameter... If you open your feeder (unhook it so it dosn't grab hold of the filament) can you extrude manually by pushing the filament up through the tube? (hotend needs to be warm obviously)
  15. tommyph1208

    Ultimaker original +header

    Everything about the printer is cntrolled through its firmware, Marlin... You can grab the latest version of that from their website or GitHub: http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/ Make the changes you need in the files contained and upload your modified firmware to your printer using eg. the Arduino IDE
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