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tommyph1208

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About tommyph1208

  • Birthday 08/12/1985

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  1. Check out some of the dual extrusion options E3D has come up with: https://e3d-online.com/hotends/multi-extrusion You will still need an extra feeder and possibly a stronger power supply to be able to heat two hotends...
  2. tommyph1208

    Ultimaker original+ won’t print any layers

    As Sander mentions, maybe the filament is too thick and therefore has trrouble moving through the bowden tube... Did you try measuring it with calipers? It should be no thicker than around 2.9 mm. in diameter... If you open your feeder (unhook it so it dosn't grab hold of the filament) can you extrude manually by pushing the filament up through the tube? (hotend needs to be warm obviously)
  3. tommyph1208

    Ultimaker original +header

    Everything about the printer is cntrolled through its firmware, Marlin... You can grab the latest version of that from their website or GitHub: http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/ Make the changes you need in the files contained and upload your modified firmware to your printer using eg. the Arduino IDE
  4. tommyph1208

    Multicolour-.-.-

    I've seen it done with older UM versions, and it worked fine (interesting vases came out of that) A few things you have to consider: 1. Use filament with similar properties, diameter etc. preferably same brand in different colors, check diameter with digital calipers and enter the average in your slicer. Same goes for print temp (different colors often print best at different temps, so try and find a temperature that works for all) 2. If you don't actually fuse the filament pieces together (quite some effort involved in that) retractions are obviously a no go... 3. Without pauses to reload filament pieces or a long fused sting, you are somewhat limited in the amount of filament you can print (one full bowden tube worth)... That is why stuff like single walled vases works well
  5. I run SSSDrivers on my UMO, but am not aware of the issue (maybe that means I don't have it? Or as you also mentioned it, maybe I just accepted flaws like that, writing it off as the bed shifting slightly, or similar... Regardless I think the SSSDriver swap is a no-brainer for any UMO owner, as it just overall makes for a much nicer (primarily quieter) printer. You mention it being a stretch for your capabilities, but speaking from experience it is really not that difficult... There was a lot of confusion at first as to how to properly install them, but in the end they are extremely close to being a drop in replacement for the stock drivers (which I do believe are A4988 ). The current adjustments you are talking about are done on the drivers themselves with a little screwdriver... There are vias for measuring ref voltage with a multimeter on the driver as well, but you can also just go by the trial and error approach and adjust until they are running right. As for reversing axis you can get around the firmware update issue (if that frightens you) by simply turning the stepper motor cables 180 degrees. If you prefer one of your other solutions that depend on A4988 drivers, but are unsure the ones in your machine are A4988 or A4983, why not just buy a new set of A4988 and drop them in? They cost next to nothing... You will have to adjust current on those as well.
  6. tommyph1208

    UMO Stringing Problems

    It depends on a lot of things I believe... Your hotend looks like the stock one, what about your feeder? I ran 4,5 mm retraction at 60 mm/s retraction speed for a long time I think, but can’t really remember... I switched to E3D hotends long ago... Try playing around with the travel speed as well...
  7. That's actually the only part. I am running my UMO at 24v since ages... Cool, I didn’t know that... Do you run a 24V heatbed through the MOSFET as well?
  8. No you cannot. You could if it was a thermistor, but for an RTD you really need an amplifier (E3D or other) Yes, that's what the cheap Asian upgrade kits are suggesting to do. Still, if you have a decent 24V power supply, why not powering the printer as well in 24V and connecting the bed directly on the board? (I think the STB55NF06L MOSFET should be able to drive the bed...) I belive the board has several components that aren't rated for more than 18V max... 12V converter being one.... I myself in the end opted to switch my board with a RUMBA which works great, has more options than the UM board and runs anything from 12 to 24V
  9. Seriously.... I had just written a lengthy response to this post, left my computer for a while, came back, finished and pressed "Post Reply"... Site goes to login screen and my post is gone.... Nice work UM
  10. tommyph1208

    Localised support structure

    You cannot directly decide where support is generated, for that you would have to disable automatic support entirely, and instead manually add it (model it into) your 3d model. I have however found that you can typically get fairly close to what you want, but playing around with the support settings, the "everywhere" or "buildplate only" options obviously, but also tweaking min x, y and z distances, as well as the support pattern and overhang angle required for support to be generated.
  11. tommyph1208

    UMO Stringing Problems

    Other things, apart from print temperature, that affects stringing: - Retraction speed( higher speed = faster removal of material from the nozzle = less stringing, but too fast and your feeder may skip or grind) - Retraction distance (higher distance = less stringing, as material is retractet further away from the nozzle, but too far may result in hotend clogs and or underextrusion when extrusion has to resume after a retraction/travel move) - Print cooling (better cooling = faster solidification of extruded material = less stringing and overall better print quality) - Travel speed (faster travel speeds = less tilme for material to exit the nozzle during the travel, = less stringing, but too fast and your machine may skip steps on the axis) - Print speed and layer height (lower speeds and layer height reduces pressure in the hotend melt chamber = less stringing)
  12. Yeah, the exact "science" behind it I don't know, but as mentioned above, it was something I picked up from Adam Savages (former Mythbusters) youtube channel... He is very into cosplay, props, model making etc. and amongst others do these "one day builds"... I got this from an episode where he did a prop rifle with some metallic effects on it.
  13. The filler i used was light brown/sand colored, so yes you would have to apply a black shiny primer on top before adding the gold... The black before the gold is something I picked up on Adam Savages (former Mythbusters host) youtube page. He is very into cosplay, props etc. and does these one-day builds of everything from workshop machines and items to cosplay armors, weapons and gadgets. I don't remember the brand of spray filler I used, but its doubtful you would be able to find the same type anyways, since I live in Denmark and you are from New Zealand... It doesn't get much further apart than that I would visit an auto-parts store and ask for it, see what they have... It looks and sprays like one of those spray-color cans, but is somewhat thicker. The one I used was intended for cars and similar to fill out dents etc. after eg. sanding away rust and before applying paint and varnish.
  14. You need some primer first, to smooth out layers and make the paint stick. I have previously had good results using first some spray-filler (for repair work etc.) to smooth out the print... The stoff layers into cracks nicely and sands well.. Then apply a black shiny primer before the gold finish
  15. I would go for a different hotend as @neotko also mentions below... Whether that should be the UM2 one as he suggests, I'm not so sure... I've been using E3D myself for a long time and they make a wide variety of super nice hotends and a shit-load of different sized nozzles in different materials.... everything you could ever want or need.
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