tommyph1208
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Posts posted by tommyph1208
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Here are a few images of my Z-stage with Jasons kit incl. the borosilicate glass...
As I mentioned, I modified it for 3 point leveling.
I drillied a new hole in the front center of the z-stage bottom plate and moved one of the little black plastic fittings in there. I also needed to drill out the hole in the aluminium plate a bit, and make the "keyhole" shape to accomodate the snap on system.
The Borosilicate glass kit came with 4 thumb-screw like nuts, so I chose longer bolts to hold the bed and screwed them all the way through the fitting and out on the bottom side of the bed. I then put the thumb-screw nuts on there with some superglue in the threads... (remember the springs and spacers before glueing the nut on, as the bolt won´t come off again).
Thats basically it, I think the end result is quite nice, and will be even nicer with the cable chain...
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Will do when I get home.. I haven't made the cable chain yet though... Just modified the bed a bit for 3 point leveling and stuck it in there...Thanks guys. Tommyph1208, can you add a picture of yours?
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So... the question about how to power the small fan it's not so clear.
How about buying a 24v fan?
I found these options on eBay that appear to be equivalent to the one supplied by E3D:
- 3010 DC Brushless Cooling Fan
- 2 wires 24V Fans 30 x 30X 10mm
- 24V 3010S 5 Blades 30x30x10mm
If I use a 24v fan can I just wire it to the 19v screw terminals? These terminals are always on?
Alternatively, get one of these within the right specs:
Attach it to an always on 19V line and dial the output down to 12V.
then you can run all manner of 12V fans, LEDs etc. off that (as long as you keep it within its, and the
PSUs current rating)
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indeed, it can just be turned around to have the connector on the left side... I did this and are planning on the modified cable chain
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@Tommyph1208: I got it straight from the manufacturers website as listed on the BOM from the forums. I hope it's an original and not chinese, but what isn't made in China these days...
It has 4 cooling vents/gaps. No experience yet as the UM2 was my first 3D Printer.
It was fun printing everything, but I think it would have been better to just buy the laser cut case version.
Let me know if you want to sell one of yours. :-P
Haha
Shipping from denmark to Florida would be horribly expensive
I have seen on ebay some US vendor selling the printed parts with acrylic lasercut panels. Maybe they could be persuaded to sell just the panels? Alternatively, you could search online for a cutting service and send them the opensource lasercut drawings, or find a hackerspace somewhere and lasercut them yourself
With regards to the hotend, I'm pretty sure all original J-heads have 5 cooling vents, meaning yours with 4 is a Chinese copy... That dosn't mean it dosn't work though... I just wanted to give you a heads up if you weren't aware, which I guess you weren't...
I found this blog post by the original J-head designer, which is why I know, you might wanna give it a read and judge for yourself
http://jheadnozzle.blogspot.dk/2013/11/is-j-head-real.html
You can find more by searching around a bit on google for j-head china, or j-head clone
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Shoot me a PM with an address and I'll send it off tomorrow... will probably take a few weeks to get there though...
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Thanks, I'll see what I can do. I thought it could be a standard part and as a result I could find much easier. I am still browsing in my free time though.
I can send you mine in a letter if you want? It is not in very great shape, and It will take quite a while to get to Canada from Denmark, but it might work for you...
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Open a support ticket at support.ultimaker.com. Even though it was your fault they will almost surely send you a free replacement because that's how they roll (actually I don't think they have a method of billing you - so they'll probably just give it to you).
Are you sure that is the case when it is a spare part you can order in the store?
Regardless... its worth a try I guess...
I actually have the piece right here in my hand, from my scrapped UM hotend... taking 15 euro plus VAT and shipping for THAT is absolutely outrageous...
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Without flipping the printer over and looking and just going by the schematic, board layout and (worse) memory, those fan connectors don't exist on 1.5.7.
Looks like they were there in 1.5.3
http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker's_v1.5.3_PCB
Then were remove apparently in 1.5.4
http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker's_v1.5.4_PCB
Not sure why your 1.5.4 still has them but I'm pretty sure the 1.5.7 version I have doesn't have them.
Alright.. I just re-checked, and my board does say 1.5.4 on it... Maybe its an early one
EDIT: Looking closely at the picture of the 1.5.4 board on the wiki, it has the ports as well, they are just hiding under the bend down IC1 7812 regulator...
Pictures on the pages for the 1.5.6 and 1.5.7 boards are actually of the 1.5.4 board as well, soI dont know about those...
Still the 1.5.7 board must have some 12V? Maybe just one port for the electronics fan?
Could't it just be split to connect the E3D hotend fan there as well?
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You can NOT tell thats 3D printed
Awesome!
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WARNING... I don't believe connecting the small fan to the fan connector on the UM board is appropriate.
The little fan is 12V and the fan connector is 19.5 volts (the supply voltage.
The hotend fan output... yes...
But as I wrote, at least my electronics fan runs 12V...
Its a 1.5.4 board, and has 3 fan "ports" at 12V, FAN1, FAN2, FAN3.
I have the electronics fan connected to FAN3, draw 12V for my UltiController to work without USB connection from FAN2, which leaves FAN1 free for the small fan on the E3D hotend...
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E3D put quite some work into the v6 block, so going with the standard UM block would in my opinion be a bit of a shame... Also, as mentioned earlier in this thread, the v6 block is quite big compared to the E3D one, and so, has difficulty fitting with the current E3D air duct designs.. Actually, I dont think there are really any mounts and ducts specifically designed for the v6 yet apart from Johnnys, and I believe he uses Nick Foleys duct?I plan to buy the full v6 kit but I'll probably use the UM block + TC.
But I'm still have no idea how to plug the power for the small hotend fan.
Do I connect it directly to the screw terminal on the PCB? But for what I could gather around here, this is 19v straight from the power supply, and the fan is 12v, it doesn't look right.
What are the options?
The small fan on the hotend needs to be ALWAYS ON, so dont wire it up with the hotend fan, which you will typically (or at least can have) off for the first few layers... I would wire it up with the electronics fan, which I believe runs 12V and is always ON
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So everything else on the um board can handle 24V? What about off the board? 19V heater? Steppers?The solution I ended up using is pretty simple and works well. Before I just used a cheap Chinese chassis psu dialled down to 20v which fed the UM electronics and a relay driven heated bed. The problem with this approach is the bed power is reduced if you are using a 24v designed hot plate or other heated bed element (not really an issue for me as I was using power resistors on a 8mm alu plate). My Chinese PSU died a rather pathetic death so I decided to get something a little better:
A Reign Power SMPS - Still Chinese but a hell of a lot higher quality - I will print a DIN rail and stick it on the back of the UM. It does run a bit warm so may be worth putting a fan on it. I am running at about 285watt peak. It has not cut out or failed yet in a few days worth of printing and seems very robust. Very compact too, I couldn't believe how weighty and compact it felt compared to the cheap chassis PSU I was using before. It can be dialled back to 20v or up past 24v. I keep mine at 24v.
So cables are run from this via 13A mains cable to the UM main board, soldered to the plug location.
Another set of +/- lines from the PSU are taken to this:
Similar items on Ebay. Pretty good and allows you to dial in your voltage requirement easily. You run the output from this to the spare +/- lines for the fans on the UM driver board. There should be a few spare +/- lines here. Once you have done this you can cut the legs off the 7812 regulator that sits close to that location. This is the linear reg that will crap out at 20+volts without cooling. It's wasteful and the digital regulator is a much more efficient solution, you can draw 2A+ from this new regulator so a plethora of higher power 12v fans could be added if you so wish...
Make sure you have it dialled low before you plug it in, get it set to 12v before you go ahead and install.
Once you have done all of this, you can run a new set of lines from the spare outputs on the PSU to your heated bed, using the driver board mosfet to switch a relay or use an SSR. Works very well and is a more efficient solution.
Good luck. Sorry I don't have a schematic to show you. It does get very busy cable wise and sometimes I wish there was a ribbon solution on the underside of the UM, as with all the cables running around past high power lines, interference is a big problem. I have noticed that with the PSU close to the UM unit, when the heated bed switches on and off there is and immediate impact on the temperature reported from the hot end. I believe this is down to interference as opposed to power deficit due to the fact that there is no drop in voltage across the electronics and current is within spec. I might try winding the cables to see if any flux can be reduced as there is certainly an impact on the very sensitive thermocouple amp.
Your setup is exactly like mine, except I havn't dared turning the PSU past 20V... Also my DC-DC converter dosn't get its 20V IN directly from the PSU but draws them from the board exactly like the 7812 regulator... I just desoldered the 7812 and soldered the DC-DC onto where it sat (IN+ on the 20V side, OUT+ on the 12V side, both IN- and OUT- soldered to the middle...
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It looks great! Love the colors too
Is that an original J-head or Chinese knockoff? (I count only 4 cooling vents, but hard to tell with the mount on...) Any experience with those?
I got the lasercut parts from eMaker, user: indieflow: http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=1180
He has them in both acrylic and birch plywood... I got one of each since I couldn't decide... think I'll just have to build both
Thinking of painting the wood with spraypaint (did this on my UM1), qnd lightly sanding the acrylic for a frosted glass look.
I think I will try the cable driven z thaat sublime added later on... No leadscrew, no z-wobble, and slightly cheaper too
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So how did you end on this project? is it printing yet?
I just ordered lasercut parts for one
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That is the hotend isolator coupler:
https://www.ultimaker.com/products/isolator-coupler
Teflon, I believe? Not sure if you can make something yourself to replace it (official UM spare parts are, as you can see, pretty expensive... Add shipping to that and, well...)
Alternatively you could get a printed mount somwhere and go with a completely different hotend all together (E3D, Merlin, UBIS, J-head?)... Pretty silly since you just ordered this upgrade, I know... But truth is its probably going to be about the same cost as the UM spare part... The result with eg. the UBIS might be alot better than the stock hotend though...
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Ultimaker support isnt exactly stellar at the moment, is it?
Regardless... The Mankati is a cheap(ish) china printer.. So expect just that... Probably you are going to get what you pay for...
As for the anti clog hotend I call bullshit... There are a million hotend designs out there with slot of approaches to handling/preventing clogs... I have a very hard time believing that This particular design should Be the answer to all prayers...
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You can get the UM parts way cheaper off ebay...
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Hi Targeter and welcome to the forums
Fellow dane here, from Valby Copenhagen... Nice to see some more of us represented here
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I have been messing around with the exact same setup myself, close to a working state now.
So far, my solution is:
- 1 industrial 18-24V psu (dialed to 20V), mounted under the UM
- 12V regulator (marked IC1 on your board) replaced with a 12V DC step-down buck from ebay
- LEDs driven from this 12V line as well
- Heatbed connected directly to 20V PSU through Solid State Relay controlled by the UM Boards heatbed port (havent wired this up yet, but sounds like a common approach, exept maybe for using SSR instead of regular Rely)
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This sounds like you wasted the 12v regulator on your board (maked IC1), did you have the printer turned on for long periods of time without the fan blowing on the electronics? eg. while you were adjusting the stepper drivers?
You may want to have a look at these other posts:
https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/ultimaker/voS2qlOs8-k
If you have a multimeter, try measuring the voltage across the pins of the 12V regulator component... if you turn the board/printet so that the 12v regulator is closest to you, it should be 19V between the middle and left pins and 12V between the middle and right pin...
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Welcome to the forums
Be sure to post your RC projects as you progress, as well as your problems and questions.
People on here love to see cool stuff working, as much as they love answering questions
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Nicolinux, Sorry my bad about my english, I'm not sure what you mean by dampers/cushioning.
Definitly would like to know what other people are using!
These printable ones use regular rubber bands... They are made for the UM1 but I believe they fit the UM2 as well...
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25950
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ulti-foot
Otherwise I'm sure a creative person like you can take the idea and cook up something similar
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Good well written description of the part, how to assemble it, its intended use, where its coming from (inspirations, interations etc.) is a big plus i think... It will usually tell if the designer has thought things over, and if there is anything you need to be particularly aware of...
I have seen on ebay some US vendor selling the printed parts with acrylic lasercut panels. Maybe they could be persuaded to sell just the panels? 
Facebook. Who`s who.
in Coffee corner
Posted
I'll bite
Hello Wayne and Marie, added you both... Tommy from Denmark...
Marie, I'm in the games industry as well, no artistic flair though, I do game programming mostly...