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    Ultimaker 2

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  1. On my UM2 the fans require a set point of 25-30% just to begin rotating. Once they start to spin, they will stay spinning down to about 10%. I think it is a limitation of the physics of the motors, etc. I figured this value out by controlling the % on the printer during a print.
  2. Watching the animation of the print, I see these dots are often the very last step before a new layer. In the attached g code at layer 48 you see the printer is adding tiny spots of infill - yellow. It happens a lot on this project due to the many spikes, but I see it on almost all of my prints. If needed, I can video a print in progress. If someone is feeling extra generous, I have included the Cura settings I use. I'd like to know if someone sees something way off from the norm. I am having a difficult time getting satisfactory results lately. The only thing that seems to work is to slow the print speed which makes me sad. If it makes a difference, I am using an Ultimaker 2. Thanks for the help. Happy Holidays. my settings.curaproject.3mf wade hedge hog.stl wade hedge hog.gcode
  3. Great news!! Once the holiday season is over I will once again become dormant and will stop asking for impossible features and giving suggestions no one wants. Until then . . . I have been having a lot of problems getting good results recently which results in me trying to figure out what I have done wrong. With that in mind here are a few ideas for everyone to blow off. #1 I found what I think is an example of where Cura let me make a setting it really should not have. Using a .4mm nozzle why am I allowed to set the "Skin Overlap" at .4mm? If I understand this function correctly, Cura is going to place the last/outside ring exactly over the previous one. Yes, I see the fx in the circle. If this is as big of a problem as I think it is, I need a glaring "you are an idiot" alarm. Changing this value to the recommended one may have eliminated a problem I was frequently having, or it could have been something else entirely - excess lunar gravity. On the same subject, this setting is called "Skin Overlap." Further down in settings we have "Outer Wall Speed." Aren't outer wall and skin the same thing? #2 I have a history of asking for impossible features. When I first received my UM2 I asked for a rewind feature so that if a print fails at hour 15 due to a clogged nozzle, etc. you could rewind the program and save the print. At that time I was told no. Maybe the programming Gods can figure this one out today, possibly with a PC connected during the print. #3 How about pictures to accompany the pop up description of each setting. I heard once that one picture saves a lot of words. #4 I always change the default retract length from 4.5mm to 6.5mm using the printer's control screen. The description by the setting is very confusing about what I need to do to make that setting visible so I don't have to change it every time. Thanks for your patience.
  4. On almost everything I print there are many many times when the printer will retract, z hop to a position, deretract, make an imperceptible x/y move placing just a dot, retract, then z hop to another position. What setting do I need experiment with to eliminate what seems to me like a wasted step? Thanks
  5. Once again I have been proven wrong. The z hops are there, I thought I remember them being shown as vertical blue lines.
  6. Usage info is reported to the folks at Ultimaker. I'm not sure what data is collected, but how about adding information giving what the typical user has for each setting and letting a user know if they have a value that is way off from the norm. Maybe that could be done for each printer supported by Cura. For example, my support density is 15% which I suspect is close to typical. If I enter 40% into that field, let me know I have entered a value that is outside the normal window for that setting. This exists for the print speed settings. I would like it applied to all settings, even those I do not have checked, and let me know if I am not using a setting most people are. I do not use the "Alternate Extra Wall" feature. If most users are using this feature, let me know.
  7. There are 2 features I remember from older Cura versions that I have either turned off or do not exist. #1 - The vertical blue z hop lines that show every location of a z hop. The only way I can determine how z hop setting adjustments affect the print are to see how the print time changes as I change values. #2 - The ability to turn off layers that are below the one currently being viewed. I previously used this feature a lot to look for defects in individual layers.
  8. I experimented with the fan speed again last night and am now more confused. Sure enough, when I set the speed to 75% when the program wanted 20% after a few seconds it went back to 20%. Now my question is, if the speed a user selects on the UM2 controller is constantly getting overwritten by the gcode, why is fan speed even an option. Kind of gives the operator the false idea that he/she has control over something they really don't.
  9. I recently forgot to turn off the fan for an ABS print. As the print progressed, the fan increased speed as the file instructed it to. When I turned the fan speed to 0, it returned to the programmed speed after a few seconds. The only way I could keep it off was to keep the fan speed screen active and set to 0. What am I missing? Other settings like print speed or flow % don't get rewritten after I change them. It has been a while since I updated the firmware on my printer. Is that it? Thanks
  10. I'm sure something exists, but I have not been able to find a quick/easy way to determine the amount of filament left on a spool. How about making the spools with a series of holes along both side walls in identical positions. You put a rod through matching holes to determine how much is left on the spool. The approx amount remaining would be molded into the plastic. No scale or math needed.
  11. Hey!! I am using what I think is the latest version of firmware for my UM2. I have been having retraction problems and tried to turn it off during a print. I set the retraction speed to 0. This caused the printer to lock up and I had to reboot it. Luckily the print was only 1 hour old. I tried other values for the speed and it did not lock up. I also tried putting 0 in the distance value which worked ok. May I suggest changing the minimum value for speed to 1 instead of 0. Thanks
  12. Deretraction - is that a word?? I think I read priming is the proper term. For some time I have been having problems with the retract/prime process. I have largely ignored it until recently when I started printing the P-38 Lightning from 3D Lab Print. With that model it is very important to have good layer adhesion. The problem I have is the retract step leaves some material oozing out of the nozzle. This results in strings and blobs deposited in my print - not a big deal other than added weight. On the prime step, there seems to be a little bit of material missing and I get small blank spots where the filament has not fully primed. (Possibly mathematically not accounting for the material that oozed out of the nozzle???) I have tried various retraction settings with little success. Speed does not seem to change anything and longer distances seems to make the prime problem worse. I have noticed the bowden tube moves up and down in the print head during the retract step. I am going to experiment with ways to hold it firmly in place - maybe adding more of the clips that hold the "tube pinching device" in place. I think I read once about an over prime value that some slicers use to make sure material is fully primed in the nozzle to account for the amount that oozes out. I am using Cura 15.02.1. Is there some way to over prime the nozzle?? Thanks in advance for the great help. I have always gotten good advice.
  13. Well Blarp!! I finally had to switch to a .8mm nozzle. By the time I figured all this out I had used too much of the corkfill. Had to finish the print with bamboofill. Still looks ok, although it was not what I hoped for.
  14. Very nice. I consider myself pretty good with the UM2, but I just don't have the nerve to start a several day long print. I would have to divide it into sections.
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