simmonsstummer
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Posts posted by simmonsstummer
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This is exactly what happened to me today.
Did you fixed it somehow?
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thank you so much! This could help me a lot!
But i'm not so familiar with this can you explain better how to use the crease angle thres?
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Hi,
i would like to print a vase and i find out that the special option of spiralization is perfect.
But i think that the requirment is that you have a filled solid stl without the hollow space in it.
Since i have an stl of which i no longer has the original file to work with and i designed it already with the concave hollow part inside, i think i could not use the spiralization.
So:
I can i convert my stl to a filled solid? I would like to use meshmixer or if you have suggestions..
Thank you
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sorry found solution here:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/23441-cura-230-splash-screen-then-nothing-else
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Hi, i downloaded the last version and installed it but seems that crash down when it says "loading machines.."
What can i do?
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Hi!
I recently installed the Olsson Block on my U2. It seems a really great upgrade. Right now i tried only the 0,4 mm nozzle.
I noticed significant improvement in printing. Probabily my older nozzle was at the end of his life.
Now i've made a test:
how can i understand this in terms of future settings?
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Olsson block is certainly an interesting alternative hot end to look into.
Quite a few users use it already.
@swordriff, where can you get one near Italy?
If your filament breaks immediately it usually is not a good sign.
Imagine this behavior in the bowden tube, a lot of friction will be the result which creates under extrusion. I think the problem lies with the filament in this case.
well all my filaments breaks in a simple way.... even the one who works.
Should they bend or something like that?
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Thank you very much to all of you.
that's interesting.get an Olsson block and two or more 0.4mm nozzles. That way you can change your nozzle in 20 seconds and eliminate the single biggest problem.Where and what?
I don't think to store bad the filaments. Other filaments (like the orange for example) works fine. The black break immediately. Maybe it's just a matter of pigments inside... but i don't know how to avoid this behavior. Mostly because is starts well and then go suddenly bad.Have you used different materials to determine if that is the problem?Is the filament old, or has it been in the sun for a long time, or anything else that could have made it brittle?
so:
It could also be that the feeder stepper motor overheats after some hours of use, which leads to skipping steps.I've heard on several occasions that people had to mess with their motor current settings in order to get the printer working right.
But for now is something i don't wanna try. Despite all with other filaments all it's fine.
I think is the filaments and maybe the nozzle who is somehow damaged.
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your black pla
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Yes sure, i replaced it some month ago and indeed i noticed a great improvement.
Yes i've done the atomic metod and also other things to clean completely the nozzle.
I start to think that is the filament the problem.
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Well sander.. I'm glad you remember me... I'm here since the beginning of the u2.
That's the u2 with black pla at 50 speed and max quality.
Tried to increase the tempo to 230 but with low differences. All of sudden underextrude.
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Alla it's fine and then i get underextrusion and it ruin a 6 hours work...
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In the forum software update the gallery is gone?
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Hi,
i noticed that i can't print at 0,1 if i do so the result is this:
I always have to print at 0.06 for best results...but the time is not forgiving...
And even at 0,1 there almost every time this kind of behaviour:
Is it normal?
I use Ultimaker2 with PLA default settings.
How can i solve?
Thank you very much!
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yes i know there are methods...but i want that one.. :grin:
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It's simple:
I used to click on stl file and open cura. Now the file has the icon of a not recognised file in windows.
I tried to "open with" and set curaengine.exe as default... but this do not solve the problem and instead open a prompt windows making hundred of calculation...
Maybe i do not have to point to curaengine.exe?
I know is a stupid question that can be avoided just opening cura and open the file from there...but i don't understand why it doesn't works.
Thank you.
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15.02-RC1 solved the text blinking or disappearing at all.
Thank you Daid.
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Happy new year to all of you!
To bad my printing year is not started i i wanted...
after:
i mounted all again with a great hope. Everything was clean and nice so the printing should have been excellent...
but.. today.... again underextrusion...again weird skew filament out of the nozzle...
and the print test was:
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Ok it was simpler than i imagined it.
Now this is the situation:
If you look at the close image, you can see the problem i showed even in another topic:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7553-ultimaker-2-never-fill-well-the-tops/?p=71510
I can only imagine that the nozzle is still a little dirt.. so..
What i would like to do now is to clean completely the nozzle with something.
I have an heat gun and i'll definetely make a try. In the topic above gr5 told me:
You can remove the nozzle and put the entire thing in a flame to carbonize anything left in there.
So i was curious about what kind of flame.
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i was wondering if i can use this:
http://www.dremeleurope.com/it/it/sistemaversaflame-6126-ocs-c/
i don't want to damage the nozzle... and since seems of brass? whic melt at 915÷955 °C if i use that one who reach 1200 °C....
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great video. too bad i already unmounted the nozzle several time so i know how to operate but the video is great. Is there any way to clean the part that hold the nozzle for pla like you do it in acetone for abs?
use a gas burner to burn away all the plastic
like the cooking burner of something less?
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clogged is an understatement
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Any chance to have this two new slicing algorithms in cura in the next future?
Pack Merger
http://hpcg.purdue.edu/bbenes/papers/VanekCGF14.pdf
Clever Support
http://hpcg.purdue.edu/bbenes/papers/Vanek14SGP.pdf
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Well, changing it i push it as deep as i could.. and based on the measures i've made that time, should be ok. But who knows if inside even a little detachment from the hot end isolator is present?.another thing I noticed on the picture is that it looks like the teflon part is pretty high up from the hot end isolator (ring with holes). Shouldn't that be like 1mm or so?
The feeder do not tick.Is your feeder also ticking?If your feeder is pushing in filament, can you manually stop it from feeding by holding it between 2 fingers?
Thank you
Indeed everything seems ok but the results are bad...
At what temperature are these tests done?On October you say 230º, but perhaps that changed since receiving the new teflon.
Since i read this:
The test cylinder MUST be done at 230C as it is meant to run at that temperature.I always done it at that temperature.
UM2 not reading SD card
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
i'm sorry can you explain me better which was the problem?
I'm having this problem too and seem a file who is causing this.