Jump to content

simmonsstummer

Member
  • Posts

    185
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by simmonsstummer

  1. No i don't think is the backlight.

    It started to flicker between the final screen of the print (the one that says that the print it's ok to be taken) and the "home" menù where you decide what to do.

    Is something related the new firmware?

     

  2. I've seen the plugin you are talking about but i think is for a pre defined pause at some z. I would like to pause printing in any moment i want. In another topic seems that is possible but sincerely i do not have tried yet on the Um2.

    Anyhow ,i will take a look to the page you show me. Thank you.

     

  3. I have (a few times) aborted a print,

     

    Lucky you! I can't even count how many times i aborted a print!

    But your way to manage the situation is something that i would like to try..

    So you manually edit the gcode file? and how you positioned perfectly the print?(Or you never move it from where it was?)

     

  4. Hi,

    is possible to pause a print?

    I do not mean to set a pause in the gcode file..

    i mean whenever i want during the print to pause (to solve a problem, to change a filament, to unblock the nozzle).

    Is it possible to implement this in the tune menù?

     

  5. What you should also keep in mind, when taking your head apart, is to put everything back in the right tension.

    Where with the Ultimaker Original you had to be careful with the teflon insulator, with the Ultimaker 2 hot end you have to set the right tension again to the part just below the teflon insulator.

     

    The area marked on the image above needs to be 1mm / 1.5mm.

    If it is less, you have a chance of clogs or a leak. If you took the hot end apart and put it back together again, I think there is a fair chance this area is too small.

    Can you verify?

    gr5 edit: After further discussion, Sander says 1mm to 2mm is okay but less than 1mm is bad.

     

    i think is what happen to me.

    Today i unmounted the head because my nozzle is again clogged.. and i saw a big clog under the teflon.. so the great distance between the teflon and the nozzle could be a problem. Now i'm on my way to reduce the distance but i think that less than 3 mm it's impossible. Seems that the metal part (the one you screw on the nozzle ) is somehow full of plastic that block the teflon to go down.

     

    I'm not convinced you have diagnosed things properly - but you should know that if you somehow thicken that red clip or add a shim in there or put two clips in there (or you could print a clip) then you will get more force holding the Bowden. That clip lifts a ring and lifting the ring pushes some metal blades inward that dig into the bowden tube and hold it in place.

    I think the proper solution might be to take the bottom area of the head apart, push the bowden in 1mm more and then put it back together. But I've never taken my head apart so I'm not sure how it all works.

     

    I think that this is a big and common problem for what i read in the forum. The bowden tube pop up.. and i think that the responsible is the red clip that is too low to let the blades hold the tube.

     

  6. Here we are!

    The bowden holder is made of plastic... i don't have any piece of metal inside!

     

    The "Bowden holder" works such that you have to push down on the outer ring of the bowden holder to remove the bowden. When you push down on the bowden holder it retracts (sucks in) 4 tiny metal blades.

    After you remove the bowden tube you can look down into the "bowden holder" and possibly see the blades. Those blades dig into the bowden to get their grip - to "hold the bowden".

     

  7. The bowden tube positioned himselw how i former showed you, that's why i had to unmount the head and make things in the right position.

    By now it's 3 time i do this job. I really did not damage anything...because there is nothing to damage... the clip seems ok (the same dimensions of the one behind) the tube seems a simple tube.. and the grey part (the one that hold the tube) seems ok but maybe it's his fault that the tube is loose... So what i have to do?

    Now it's everytime i start a print. At the first retraction it brings back the tube outside of the white teflon part.

    But the tube do not seems scraped or else and once fixed, manually do not seems to be loose. But is not.

     

    Just like with the Ultimaker Original, it is of importance that the bowden tube stays at its place.

    If it doesn't stay at its place anymore after you have done a repair of some kind, you either didn't put it back together properly or you damaged something while taking it apart.

    Can you upload a picture of your entire print head assembly?

    When you have fully inserted the bowden tube so it reaches all the way until the teflon tube, can you manually lift it up?

    If you can, either you scraped the outer surface of the tube with the clip. Now it is thinner, the clip can't hold it anymore.

    Or the teeth of the clip are bent, and now they can not apply enough force to hold the tube.

    You can test this by putting the bowden tube in backwards. (feeding the filament in may be a little bit trickier because in the normal way, the opening is a bit wider on the back end). If you have swapped the tube and it can not move anymore, the bowden tube was scraped. We could send you a new bowden tube so you don't have to leave it like that.

    If it still possible to manually pull it up, I think the clip is bend. You can take out the clip and take a look inside.

    Looking forward to hear about your findings,

     

×
×
  • Create New...