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swordriff last won the day on July 16 2016

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  1. I recommend turning the 3 screws under the build bed 1/3 turn to the right! Also check that no cable is broken which goes to the sensor in the head, actually in the door. These are in the back, and have been known to brak after opening the door many many times. I recommend turning the screws 1/3 to the right and use manual bed levelling
  2. Oh.. I think the PTFE insert is too small.. please contact me about this .
  3. When it stops extruding; dismount bowden, cut the filament, and try to move the filament manually "a mano" in the bowden. Visually inspecting it is not enough. Or your PT100 is shot. Your Cold pull looks perfect
  4. Hi! Really interesting thread! The 0.40 Matchless are also twin bore, so you can print cooler. without this core heating system, the nozzle is (always, unless you print very slowly, but THEN there is even more time for the moist to evaporate from the PVA.. I guess) -- trying to print out the "middle" of the filament.. which can not be at edge temperature.. So you have to examplewise print at 220 to get the middle up to 200. or what do I know. The Matchless will heat the core while you are printing, and you guys can find out of you can print at 5-10-or 20 degrees lower temperature... it has s
  5. Hey, Gentlemen! What nozzle size do you frequently use when you have these Marathon-ish prints?
  6. Not often you see an Ultimaker screwed up against the wall....
  7. @labern: I still do not understand "the 30 second process"; I mean, is it static = = Would the fluffy thing in @gr5 s bed also take just 30 seconds? About the old german lathe and mill; they have not become any better. It is like a violin I suppose...
  8. Hey @labern: that Rabbit- trick, is that very quick- like Ruck- Zack ?
  9. I prefer the 60 (or is it 65) year old lathe form Germany ( Eh... West Germany) because it is extremely accurate! I Can drill 0.1mm holes with a precision of 0.005mm. There is are noe bearings which rattle, everything is silent.. so when I turn it by hand it makes totally no noise I can hear (maybe getting old). The motor makes a wheee though... I had some nozzles made in Taiwan and they came in horrible. All 040s where 033-038. So I had to drill them all out. Never again. I do it myself now. The lathe can operate without chucks, just uses colletts. So just a move by the hand ("-these arent
  10. You know why white wine selling so well in Norway in the summer? - because it always maintains the correct temperature, by itself; beween 11-13 degrees! Anders Olsson visited me yesterday! We tried some new procedures on my 60 year old German lathe. Today going to turn down lots of steel couplers which are all 20 microns too large. We also discussed and made plans for a completely new kind of nozzles. Weather is horrible..
  11. Heat the tube from the outside with a hairdryer /hot air gun. If you dont have it or haitdryer not hot enough, soak outside of tube in boiling water, when pla is soft inside push it out with new PLA. When you have run sevral hundred hours, the tube gets lots of little scratches inside and is not really slippery! A new tube is a total difference!! You can try filament in old tube and new tube manually, and there is no more discussion about it.
  12. OMG @tinkergnome Thank you for being back!!
  13. The 3dSolex RSB nozzles are extremely slippery inside, and have a little longer "hot chamber" when used in an Olsson Block. Therefore you may have success with printing 5 deg lower temperature, especially when printing slowly.
  14. Good Question Sander! You are concerned we will get too many notifications. Agree, but here is the deal: The activity is now so low, so there will be time for you to "consolidate" the email notifications.. Best I think, is to ONLY notify when there is PM and new Reply. Forget the likes and quotes. We will see when we click email link. You never have to email about likes etc... You must include the pm text in the email notification, and when click link bring me direct to input screen.
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