swordriff

Contact 3dsolex about this

I recommend turning the 3 screws under the build bed 1/3 turn to the right! Also check that no cable is broken which goes to the sensor in the head, actually in the door. These are in the back, and have been known to brak after opening the door many many times. I recommend turning the screws 1/3 to the right and use manual bed levelling

Oh.. I think the PTFE insert is too small.. please contact me about this .

Never print ABS through a previous "PLA-Nozzle", as the smallest residue of PLA which mixes poorly with ABS, will keep staying inside the nozzle and slowly turn to carbon or жевательная резинка. Two ways to avoid problems when changing from ABS / PLA and back: 1) Very clean cold pulls 2) change nozzle.

This issue is a top priority support ticket! Here is more advice (thanks @gr5 for tripping me on this): There are practically no retractions in the beginning of the print. Then it works! When retractions begin, the same filament is gnawed back and forth in the feeder. The filament is then thicker, and will not move through the UM3 Bowden, because the UM3 bowden is not slippery, it is made of PFA, and not PTFE. Please try this: Remove filament and bowden tube. Push "old filament" which has been through the feeder several times manually through the bowden tube. Tell us if that was easy or hard. If it is hard, get a slippery bowden tube withthe right inner diameter. Waiting...

Hi ! Thanks for posting the question! I recommend you first try printing it at normal size ( not scaled) and with a layer height of 0.1mm. When you scale it down, and also have a minimal layer height, (in your photo you state 0.05, which is maybe below what is technically possible= 1 "tick" in Z screw yields more than 0.05mm height?), then you are pushiing it really far! In your case you have a lot of retrations, and almost no printing inbetween them. ANY slack in bowden connection; bowden tube is allowed to move as little as 0.1mm, will mess up the continuity of the flowm especially when you are printing such small amounts of palstic. So when you print and have these retractions, the "same" filament with "a little added" is trying to make its way out of the nozzle. Bigger nozzle, less of this effect. My suggestions to make the 025 nozzle work are: Make sure the bowden tubes are ALL THE WAY down into theur endpoints, by taking out the horseshoe, push, wiggle, fiddle the bowden tube all the way down, then while holding it, lift the collett with a plunt knife and insert the horseshoe. Render the model at 100% size, not 50%. Layer 0.15 mm Turn retraction off. Your speed and temp settings look good! Now it should print perfectly. Then, if necessary, turn retraction off. Print again. Then, if necessary render the model 0.1- 0.06 LH. Mind you; the difference between 0.1mm and 0.06 is 40 microns!, and the difference in the print is that usually 0.1 looks better! this is due to the effect of slack in filament guiding "rail", and the approach of the physical limitations of the machine. You are now printing a "safe" configuration. If you add lower LH, smaller model and retractions, the "same filament" is trying to get out of the nozzle, almost nothing comes out, and the filament in the nozzle is staying a long time getting cooked and difficult to print. Lets hear it!

When it stops extruding; dismount bowden, cut the filament, and try to move the filament manually "a mano" in the bowden. Visually inspecting it is not enough. Or your PT100 is shot. Your Cold pull looks perfect

When you mix PLA and ABS in the same core you are asking for trouble (and gettingit!). A little PLA is always stuck somewhere down there after change of material. Then when you print ABS at higher temperatures, the little PLA is stuck "forever", and makes for build up of filament. Lots of cold pulls can help you

Which Feeder do you have, original? Which ptfe coupler, original?

Agree @tomnagel. When you print with PLA and change to Nylon ( higher temp) then residue of PLA in the Core is cooked to carbon or chewing gum.. It sits there and makes problems for you. Repeated cold pulls!

cold pull zum reinigen. use original filament when printing. use standard profiles, not high temp, not high speed. never mix abs / pla in same core. what filament are you printing?

Der UM3 hat nicht schlüpferige bowden. Die sind aus PFA. The UM3 has a few shortcomings which does not promote the ease of printing flexible material. Feeder is not optimal, but works. Bowden could be much more slippery inside, another material. There is an area between the head and into the Core which is not optimized for flexible material, it can try to escape, and inside the trumpet in top of the core it is not exactly slippery. This goes against you when printing such stuff.

Blueberries are known to have a lot of anti-oxidants!

The Bondtech just never stops. After installing it in my UM2 and UM2Go, I never sleep lightly or wake up to check if my print is ok, which must be ready in the morning. It always is! For me, and many I know, the bondtech has a "pay-back" of one single use. Everything after that is a bonus, " Free bondtech feeder".. End of Story.

Tinkergnome firmware for ultimaker 2. Advanced -> Preferences -> Retraction settings)