shurik
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3D Prints
Posts posted by shurik
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To clean the outside, I simply wait while the head heats up in preparation for a new print. When it just starts to be a bit hot, the PLA leftovers go off easily being picked by a pair of tweezers.
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Just to be 100% sure - black is PLA, not ABS?
I would switch back to the working UM Blue, to check the feeding system.
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cor3ys - you've helped so much! Many thanks!
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Right, the supports got messy at some point. But why did they? Why the other didn't? The ears and their support columns were all right. The upper parts of the problematic legs were printed OK, too.
I printed a hippo staying on his feet, with standard Cura supports, but still, the belly got very rough, even after sanding.
With the cow, I tried to find an optimal angle, to minimize the supports and printing in the air. Not very successful yet.
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Hi cor3ys,
Thanks a lot for the reply!
Could you share the details of the presentation perhaps - content, objectives, what you spoke about, etc.?
I'm still unconvinced about moving the printer around, though...
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Ummm.... I'm uneasy about carrying the printer around. It will certainly not prolong its life expectancy.
I'd rather show children video of it in work, accompanied by some small things, like bracelets, for example. Any other ideas for a small stuff to distribute are welcome, of course.
The question is, what can we talk or do in these 40 minutes of the workshop we might have, other than just to show off.
Open for suggestions.
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Well, very simple. Why the cow has no forward legs? I removed some of the supports. On the legs, they were messy. Other than that, the print was fine.
Layer: 0.06mm
Shell: 0.8mm
Fill: 20%
Speed: 30mm/s
Bed: 60C
Temp: 210C
:?:
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Hi guys,
In order not to open a new topic, will post one more question here.
From time to time, I do some card modelling workshops in schools and even at my work as a part of volunteering activities or just "creativity" sessions.
Then, a thought came to me - there is quite a bit of the interest about the whole idea of 3D printing around, and we all know it.
What would you suggest as an activity or simply lecture, perhaps, on the 3D - for schools and up? There were some posts on the forums that some people here have done that, but unfortunately, I couldn't find these.
Carrying the printer around is not desireable, so any practical workshop is more or less out of the question.
Any ideas?
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Wow! 0235 - may I ask what parameters do you use to produce such a beauty?
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OK, thightened the X axis. Seems to be much better now, but will need to do more tests for a definitive answer.
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I also had noticed that Colorfabb White doesn't stick as good as UM Blue, giving the same mess as you get, at a times.
The solution for me, at least, is to wipe the glass with a window cleaner-wet cloth until the glass is dry and, well, clean. Works like a charm.
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First of all, many thanks to anon4321 and illuminarti for the suggestions.
Update:
This is how the bloody print finished:
The head stopped its left-right (Y?) movements, leading to a major head blockage along the way. That was quite upsetting, to put it gently.
It was a fixing bolt that went loose all the sudden, I was lucky enough to manage it into more or less accessible angle and tightened it. Then, had to disassemble the head (for the 2nd time already! :evil:) to clean it.
After all that saga, re-leveled and tried to print something. Seems very much better now. :!:
Question: The left-right upper thick rod on the back (you can see it on the last picture) has a clearance of about a millimeter between its black stopper and the wall, bounsing this distance as the pulley moves. The rest of the rods seem to be tight. Shall I tighten this one, too? It doesn't seem to affect quality and I'm not sure as to how to tighten it.
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Guten Tag lean!
Yes, even though I have my machine for about a month ago, it is still a true wonder.
That despite the fact that it gives me some real headaches from time to time.
Hope, you will have more luck and will enjoy the beautiful creations it can make.
Hertzlichen willkommen!
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Thanks IRobertI. Will check the glass. I'm not familiar with UM1. Besides, it takes some nerve to disassemble the brand new 2000Euro machine. I did that for the print head when had to remove a burnt out filament, but the rods... And then, what would I do with them? Even if they bend - it would be tenths or even less of millimeter. I can't handle this myself anyways.
However - have a look on these:
After the last re-leveling, the patches are very clear. What is it? Totally puzzled.... :(
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OK, thanks for the tip, will do that. Meanwhile, the print on previous pictures got warped at, guess, right top angle. :angry:
Re-leveled, restarted. Same patchy pattern for the 1st layer - islands of thin, transparent flow and other areas of thicker, normal cover. Obviously, very think to the upper right.
When I look at the head, it can be clearly seen that it moves a bit farther and closer to the glass as it goes. A very tiny bit but enough to gen this unevenness.
Could it be that the glass itself is uneven and should be replaced? Or it's the rods that are curved? If this is the case, I'm even in deeper trouble. :(
What do you all think?
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Oh, I thought for whatever reason that the test is with 0.2mm layers. Thanks! So it seems, 0.2 at about 60 mm/s should be just good.
BTW -
I was convinced that your printer would be in the problem listWhy? I'm not a big troublemaker usually.
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Thanks again for helping. Basically, nothing changed. I can't even count how many times I did leveling - no help.
The printer does produce beautiful prints, but the initial layers drive me nuts. See the latest one, 0.2mm thickness:
It's the same thing - far right corner is awful while others are acceptably good. Why? What could it be? Is it possible that the metal heated plate isn't even? :?:
I would open a ticket but the level of the service is worrying - they barely reply once in a while, ruining their own reputation... :(
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That's how it came out for me:
Looks pretty much perfect.
Then, what does that mean? We can print at blazing 100mm/s for 0.2mm layers and wholly 200mm/s for 0.1? Is that so?
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Herzlichen Willkommen!
And I thought that I'm the oldest one here...
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2000x2000x3000 build volume.
0.1mm Z resolution I suppose? ;-)
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Well, due to my current hurdles, I can only wish for some sort of automatic leveling.
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I have had some prints scaled up to the full size of the bed. PLA, brim, zero warp. Happy. :-)
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The stepper motor is jumping backwards
A-ha! That's exactly what I had while trying to print some buildings! Solved the problem by reducing the flow to 80%.
Not sure what it means, probably some inperfect overflow handling by the machine itself.
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While my experiense is somewhat limited yet, I have had my fair share of the similar problems.
All the advices above are correct.
For the simpler solution, you may try to increase the flow to 150% or so while printing on 0.25, rest of the parameters unchanged.
Failed print - too thin details?
in Coffee corner
Posted
OK, will try one day to re-print the cow.
Now, a new question, somewhat relates to the original one, so no new topic for it:
It's these:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:88849
UM Blue, 0.1mm, 50mm/s, initially 230C, 60C bed.
After this disaster, I am printing it now on 200C with 30mm/s. The result is considerably better but very ugly yet.
Going lower than 200C is very risky with UM Blue - it loves higher temperatures and underextrudes heavily even on 210C on a more straight layers.
So, like with the case of the aforementioned cow supports, I do not know how to print thin vertical structures.
BTW, tried the overhang test by gr5 and it printed almost perfectly from every direction. But here, there are these ugly blobs of plastic almost everywhere, except the two edge walls. Why? How to get rid of them?